well i guess i will do this then, i would probs have to re wire it though as the wires will deffinately be too short. I could then map the d-pad to the buttons and keep the analogue stick for menus and so on. Im sure i could get a seccond hand controller for about £10 ($18). Im not too bothered about looks at it will be just for home use; i guess i can quite easily learn basic carpentry and wiring skills. Anybody got any objections to this/reasons why it would be difficult? Any probems with stuff like Left+Right not giving me a neutral input? I have just looked at some guides on how to do this and it seems most of the work is done for me. Any advise at all is wellcome, I suck at electronics :S
so really what firmware if any, do I need to make SOCD’s neutral. Every other bit of information I can find just not this! I dont want to make my box, just to feel like a cheat after.
The short answer is that you can’t do this in firmware. Not because it’s impossible, but there are AFAIK no commercial XBox360 controllers that provide for end user firmware changes. Electronic interlock circuits are relatively simple, but I’m really not a person to learn that stuff from.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! As long as this doesnt require any specialist equipment, I should be able to learn this. hopefully :S
Would anyone know the fastest way to get a TE panel with a hitbox layout?
Either get one from tek-innovations, and get a replacement acrylic panel, or get a steel panel from blklightning21 Project: LLC Metal Replacement Panels Round 9 Stainless Steel
Note, in both cases, you will likely have to design your own layout. I’m not sure how LLC has it, but I know at tek-innovations, you must design it yourself, so it will not be the official Hit Box layout.
Assuming you know how to use them, something involving plywood, saws, and drills.
toodles does have a firmware fix for the PS3 version of the Cthulhu, I do not know if it is a Hit Box exclusive or can you ordred the moddifed Cthulhu directly from toodles.
Tek-cases acrylic top panel replacements or Blk Lightings custion metal panels (see Nerrage’s Post)
He is talking about modding a Mad Catz TE, you wouldn’t need plywood for it, as well as ply wood and MDF is too thick.
Metal or plastic top panel replacement the way to go for existing retail sticks.
I ordered a steel panel/Full plexi from LLC Steel Panel Replacement. Ordered some art from Tek-Innovations.com (without the holes cut out, I will do this myself), and all the buttons and a harness from lizarlick.
I’m waiting on the panel/plexi and art (should be here next week). I’ll let u know how it works out.
I just ordered 2 tek-innovations panel replacements with hitbox-like layout (only mines will have both of my hands spread apart, yet enough for both of my thumbs to reach the up button in the center, and 6 30mm buttons T5 style) and will be doing the mods soon for TE (360) and T5 cases (T5 having Cthulhu board)
as for replacing the TE directional wiring, i’m just gonna use solid strand 22 AWG and insert into the holes of the existing wiring harness and tape it down (hot glue might be possible), that way should i want to go back into stick it’s easily removable and minimizes the effort in going backwards to previous configuration
Alright I’ve done some leg work for anyone wanting to know more information on how to mod their 360 TE stick into a fightboard, or as more people refer to it a Hit Box. I am a new member so please feel free to correct me if you see anything wrong. The information I give here is from my particular situation, you may or may not encounter the same problems I did, or you may have gone a different route completely.
First off, you can simply cut the wires from the JLF put QDs and daisy chain the ground as stated by Darksakul above. This will work once you’ve figured out which wire goes to which direction, which isn’t too difficult. The only problem with this simple wiring is, if you started with an unmodded 360 TE stick it will now be able to input SOCDs. This has the biggest impact in MVC3, which would allow you to block in both directions. Many people think this is cheap and a form of cheating. Not me though, I don’t care I hate wolverine. Anyways, this is what I was gonna do but I also wanted my 360 stick to be dual-modded. Thats when I came across a solution to both problems with Toodles’ TE Kitty.
Toodles’ TE Kitty is awesome. It is a simple mod (especially for a noob like me) which allows your 360 TE stick to work on not only the PS3 but also many other consoles such as the Dreamcast, Gamecube, etc. Another awesome feature is the TE Kitty also cleans up SOCDs, which means left+right= neutral and up+down = neutral. Now no one would be able to call you a cheater. But this may introduce another problem I just realized today. After installing the Kitty, when I went to replace the panel (the original w/joystick) I noticed the panel was a little tougher to lay down in the bezel. This was because the cables from the PCB were sticking up too far. This in particular wasn’t my worry, you can easily move the wires out of the way by squeezing them into the front of the case. My concern arose when I made a temporary cardboard panel. The complete layout has to be raised higher on the panel a considerable amount in order for the UP button (which is the lowest button in the layout) to clear the PCB at the bottom of the case. Which means the tabs at the bottom of the attack buttons will need to be bent so the panel can lay flat (no biggie)
I ordered a panel with the Hit Box layout from Blklightning21 mid-June, but I have to wait patiently as he is working on many orders right now (which is why I was asking if anyone knew of somewhere faster until I received his). I was looking at the layout of his panels and they are pretty much similar the official Hit Box layout, which is exactly what I wanted. But if the position of the UP button at the bottom of the panel is too low it will be sitting directly over the PCB. The panel might not be able to close since the extra cable ribbons to the PCB won’t allow the button to clear. I have been looking at the panels he has completed and it seems likes its high enough to clear, but I can’t be certain until I receive the panel. If anyone has a gotten a panel with the Hit Box layout from Blklightning and has the Kitty installed, let me know if this is even an issue (I hope it’s not).
I checked out Tek-innovations panels and those look real nice, I just didn’t want to make my own layout not knowing if the panel from Blklightning would be just fine or not, also my cardboard trials didn’t leave me with a lot of confidence, but this may be an option worth looking into. If people are looking for another Hit Box style plexi panel option, Bencao74 from arcadeforge.de and the Laser TE panel Plexi thread said he can setup a bunch if enough people bug him.
So as I wait here, still with no fightboard, :(, I will continue to research the different possibilities on this subject. I am going crazy not being able to practice my combos since I decided solely to practice with a fightboard. I haven’t practiced in over a month!:tdown: I guess that was a bad decision due to all the current circumstances (I was new with a joystick so I immediately saw the potential of the Hit Box, whose dual-mod production was affected by the disasters in Japan, totally understandable.) As soon as I receive my panel I can post some more info.
I hope this information was useful to someone. All critique’s/comments are welcome, even the mean ones, I’m a big boy I can handle it.
As long as you don’t care too much about it looking pretty, you should also be able to replace the mounting screws, and raise the panel with some kind of spacers.
Now that I’ve taken the opportunity to measure, it looks like it should just be possible to replace face panel + bezel with 1/4" plywood on a round one TE.
When I was checking out tek-innovations plexi panels I noticed the TE FULL panel replacements come with a border spacer that takes the place of the bezel, which gave me the same idea you are describing. I’m considering ordering one, but I feel like as soon as I order it blklightning will e-mail me that his is ready to be shipped. Also, the custom panel builder shows the posts in the case and the button terminal that could get in the way of button placement, but it doesn’t show the position of the PCB that is in the way, which would hinder my ability to correctly position the UP button so it’s not blocked by the PCB. I’ll try to post up some pics tomorrow of my specific concern. The rest of the direction and attack buttons can just be positioned around the UP button. I hope all this is needless worry though, the panel could work without any problems at all.
SLAS/SLAC (Stickless Arcade Stick/Stickless Arcade Controller) is the correct term. HitBox is a commercial brand.
It will work on a TE. I have made a temporary setup with 1/4 plywood (replaced the bezel and panel) and it’s working out great while I wait for the panel to arrive.
Seems like HitBox is going the way of Velcro and Kleenex fairly quickly.
Kind of. Just like the “FightStick” wasn’t the first Arcade Stick, but one of the most revolutionary of its time. Hit Box was definitely not the first Stickless Arcade Stick, but it has definitely garnered a lot of attention. It’s a specific layout and design which is its new thing to the table (though, the buttons being “more accurate/responsive/whatever” is how they’re selling it.)
So I was able to successfully mod my TE stick into the SLAC layout, but I can’t get the plexi to close all the way. It seems as though the hard plastic in the middle interferes with it fully closing. What can I do about this? Pics here: (click to enlarge)
that looks like a panel from art. if that is the case you are going to have to cut your case since that was a layout you made yourself
arthong does not offer Hit Box Layout.
That he got from bencao74.
Because of the edges being round.