Modding a Hori Fighting Stick 2

I bought this stick last year when I was just starting out and well I could definately use something more responsive now. So what I would like to know is how would one go about modding it and what parts would you reccomend? This is my first time modding a controller of any kind so don’t hesitate to phrase it as though you were talking to an eight year old child.

The games I’ll mostly be playing it on would be SFA 3, VF 4, Soul Calibur and Tekken if that makes a difference

Btw first post here, and this place looks pretty cool.

have you tried looking around the threads?
or did you just jump in here and post this?

I’m currently modding my HFS2, but it’s cuming along a little slow with work and everything…

I’ll take some pics during the progress and mebbe’ make a thread, or just post them in here or IN THE OTHER HFS2 THREAD!!!

is it like the fs3 and t5 stick?

where the pcb is stick on the buttons?

Dunno’ whether it’s like the t5 or fs3 but the pushbuttons seemed to work like buttons on a pad, by which I mean non-wired, just some rubber POS pressuring the contactpoints or whatever on the pcb…

And well, the PCB was so ugly I threw it out the second I cracked the stick open, going to hack a PS1 DS pad. :sweat:

there are two versions of the HFS2.

one of them has soldered buttons with switches identical to those on the Soul Calibur sticks. it has a black painted top plate (rusts very easily) and no turbo button, i think.

the other one has a blue vinyl top, with buttons that use rubber contacts instead of switches (obviously these buttons aren’t soldered.)

the first one fits sanwa buttons easily. the second one has tabs that have to be filed down.

both of their PCBs are pretty good in that they have analog support, and you can turn it on / off at will through a toggle switch. the PCBs are HUGE, though.

modded one with buttons, but i’m sure a Sanwa or Seimitsu stick would fit with no problems.

The HFS2 Stick, has anyone modded it yet? any internal pics? im searching but all I have confirmed is that i made the noob mistake of buying the damn thing. i might as well make it into a fun project and turn it into a positive.

well it looks like no one really cares about this mod, but I DID IT… as have many other people, but i think for it being my first mod and coming out alive, it makes me confident in taking on my first custom build. I’ll have pics up in a day or two. jlf Sanwa stick with seimitsu buttons, same stuff everyone else has. One thing i wish i knew was that this PCB is just like a controller in that you have to scratch off the stuff on top of the button contact so you can soder the wires on.

I can’t wait to see this mod. I would love a step by step guide on it.
Good job! Did the Sanwa stick fit easily/perfectly?

i’ll type one up later today, unfortunately I’m without pictures. but i’ll lay it out the best i can. The sanwa stick did fit in nicely, oddly enough. The buttons were the real headache, and the pcb, being as though its all connected to those cheap start buttons that i wanted to keep as is.

OK, im going to try and type up a little guide to modding this stick. Its really easy to get, pretty cheap. but outside of that it pretty much sux. First and formeost if you want to get a really good stick on a budget i suggest order the Elecon (mayflash) stick i have found it for as cheap as 15 bucks. once you get it, gut it and put in your stick and buttons of choice.
(I know nothing about the technical terms so bare with me)
But now for this HFS2
when you open it up you’ll see the joystick… cut the wires and get it out of there, its just hld in place by 4 screws. (im also assuming you know to take the ball top off) Its the cheapest thing in the world.

The PCB is HUGE. its also connected to the turbo buttons, the analog switch, and the L3 and the R3. Personally i cut off the L3 and R3 buttons, they were a pain in the ars for something i never will use. The take all the screws out of the remaing boards. Now take out all of the little cheap buttons across the top. Followed by the fruity knock off buttons. They snap right out. So now everything is seperated and your ready to put the new, fancy stuff in.

I did the easy thing first, but your buttons in, i used the Seimitsu PS-14-GN 30mm , snap-ins are best because it is a metal plat. The only rough spot is these little tabs that HORI used in the button holes. file those little tabs down and your good to go.

For the stick I used a JLF Sanwa. I guess you could go two routes here. One saw down all of the plastic and drill holes for the screws. Instead what I did was took the mounting plate off and there are two places on the JLF that match perfectly with the screw from the previous stick.

Now on the PCB you see there is an H in the middle of each place for a button. Scratch off that H to get to the metal contacts. I used an exacto knife, it was like scatching a lotto ticket. Reason for that is to solder the wires which go from the new buttons down to the PCB. The solder wont stick to the board if you don’t scratch that stuff off, I tried. So solder wires to the board and connect them to the switches.

now for the stick. the wiring harness for the JLF has a black wire. Its the ground, connect that to just one ground from the previous stick. (I just spliced the wires, then soldered the connections). Next connect the appropriate wires (wiring help can be foud in the essentials thread).

Now I know you can see this part is sloppy, but this is my first time doing anything like this. I mean i didn’t even have a stick until a week before i attempted this, but after reading all these threads I felt confident. I didn’t actualy mount the PCB because it barely fits in there at this point. But the joystick fits perfectly. Everything is wired so re-attach the cheap buttons across the top, i mean its just start and select so why bother changing them. the problem here is that the PCB cant really go anywhere so just leave it be. If you have opened one of these P.O.S’s up you know there isn’t much else you can do with it besides let it hang around.

Close it up and your all done. Please hit me up If you have any questions or if you have any questions at all, but thats pretty much all I did. I learned how to solder doing this too which is something i’ll use because now I want to do another stick, just cleaner and better the second time around.

can you post up some pics of the inside of your stick please? i’ve been putting off modding my HFS2 for almost half a year.

Ok, ask and you shall receive. Sorry for the quality, i don’t have a digital camera but I found an old webcam… I really need to buy new stuff. well here is what the final product looks like.

my first mod, sorry i don’t have before pictures but here is what it looked like before

hope this helps everyone.

Looks rad. I lost interest in modding my FS3 because stick clearance issues. I should have a used A FS2 like you:amazed:

Great looking mod…I think I’ll follow suit and do that with mine…

BTW - has anyone had any problems with the stick (unmodified)? Ive got 2, and one of them is stuck" – it keeps inputting left and up on the joystick. Nothing is touching the microswitches. The buttons all seem fine.

Would this be a Joystick problem or more of a PCB problem? If it’s PCB then it’s toast.


Just bumping this to see if there are any updates or if anyone has discovered other guides on this.

Is it absolutely essential that we have to saw down on the new stick that we wish to put in, or is there an alternative decent replacement for the stock stick? I’m not too keen on having to saw down anything.

hey tomattito, how sturdy is the Sanwa JLF mounted to the chasis? I am wondering because you said that you only used 2 mounting screws.

anybody got a good hori fighting stick 2 template? i need it asap. Thanks guys

Question: Why did you use the screw-in buttons (PS-14-GN) when you even recommended yourself to use snap-in buttons?

Would the Seimitsu 30mm snap-ins fit easily (assuming we file down the tabs)?

my sanwa obsf snap ins fit perfectly after grinding down the tabs. You may just need to widen the holes a little but for a good snap fit.