Modding an Ikan/Naki arcade stick. Is this everything I need?


Copied from my post over at the PH thread:

I currently have an ikan/naki ps3 arcade stick. Its cheap and it works for me. The aesthetics arent offensive (well its plain black, what do you expect), has good weight and the plastic case doesnt feel (too) cheap.
I however want to feel what everyone keeps on raving about “quality” sticks and parts, but on the other hand, i dont think i can ever convince myself to shell out 8-10k (about $200) for a TE stick or whatnot.
So i figure, why not try a little DIY, I think it might come out cheaper (though ill have to buy the soldering iron and sucker for equipment and maybe some sort of filing tools).

Would it be advisable for me to replace the 8 stock buttons with OBSN-30s (screw in types) and the stick with the JLF-TP-8Y (green ftw)? I read here that its actually pretty easy to do with the ikan/naki case - file a bit here and there and slap em in. The trickiest part for me would most probably be having to change the PCB. Ill probably change it to the P100 ($2) USB controller PCB from a store heresince 1)It doesnt require separate drivers on the pc to work and 2)It supposedly works on the PS2/PS3 (just in case). Ive read around, and though I only have soldering experience from highschool workshops (from way back when), Im willing to try it out - it seems fun and it feels like it would be a bit of a small accomplishment.

So basically thats 8 buttons and the JLF stick from sanwa, with ems shipping it brings me to around 3k total ($60) (+1.3k ikan +100cdr, [and, well, the iron and wires and everything] gives me a 4.4k($91) stick with a good build and sanwa quality parts). Ill probably just use the stock start/select button it already has and I dont even know if ill bother with the r3/l3 buttons.

So thats 1 stick and 8 buttons total. Aside from tools (and wires) ill purchase locally, would I need to order anything else from akihabara? Itd be a waste if I forgot something and I had to pay for another shipping fee for a few missed parts.

Speaking about local purchases, do i need to purchase those so called quick disconnects? Are those necessary for the sanwa buttons? Can you even use those for daisy chaining the ground line? Ill probably get a soldering iron and some sand paper as well (i dont think Ill need an actual (dremel?) tool for the button slots since I read theyre only about .5 mm smaller than the sanwa 30mm)

What do you guys think and thanks in advance.

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Pics of the existing stick would be nice. Especially since I’m tempted to see if I can make a decent custom art template for it (for free even, anything to help the local community).

Also, I’m assuming that you’re using one of the cheap CD-R King USB controllers that looks like a PS1 controller. I have one of those and it doesn’t seem to bad for a really cheap controller. I’ve had no issues with connecting it to any PC, except for the fact that it prefers to be recognized as GamePad 0 (relegating my MadCatz to 2nd player if I use my default keybindings for my emulators). You might want to solder in a new USB cable though as I find it to be on the short side.

On the price though, you’ll need to consider that a Hori HRAP3 (the BlazBlue one) goes for around 5k Php, you’ll have to consider that plus the cost of the Sanwa buttons. If your final cost goes over that, might as well get the Hori and mod it. That said, I’m really looking forward to see what comes of this.


There are actually some pics of already in the forums

Taken from PARTIAL REVIEW: Arcade Stick IV

and heres a modded one courtesy of xheezy04

As for the usb controller yeah already tried it on my pc, worked with no problem. As for the usb cable, i dont know, is it complicated to do? I dont really need a much longer cable since my pc is right in front of me.

As for the cost HRAP3 is 5k. Then Ill pay for shipping about 1k. Then buttons and shipping about 1k+. Then I have to consider that there was already a 1.3k cost regarding the ikan I already have right now to begin with. So i think the cost wont ever catch up vs buying a hrap3.


Actually, I know a place locally where you can get a HRAP3 for 5k. But yeah, I won’t discourage you since I actually so want to see this project completed.

One thing I’ve been meaning to ask though is how deep is the Ikan? I’m wondering if you’ll need to do the same sort of mods to get the JLF to fit as is needed for a Hori FS.


well even at local 5k, that still shaves only 1k for shipping from PA.

About the stick

From what I can understand you can pretty much just slap it in there. If you could clarify it for me, id appreciate it.

That being said, would that be everything I need? 9 items total. Im itching to place my order lol (site might close on me)

And for reference, heres the actual thread


I meant that there’s a place that sells Hori’s here for 5k in Greenhills.

As for the parts, I’m pretty sure that’s all that you’ll need to be ordering, unless you need some extra stuff like different stick tops, adapters, etc.

Also, if you can give me the dimensions of the top plate, I’ll see if I can convert my existing art templates (made for MadCatz) to fit it.


Well I went ahead and sent the order.

Here comes the adventure. Ill try measuring the top plate maybe tomorrow.


The pic of my stick you got there was an experiment. Since the sanwa buttons are 30mm and the naki are around 28mm I used the naki cylinder and used sanwa microswitches and plunger to use in the stick… You could use this route if you don’t want to sand/file the hole to be bigger but you’re stuck with that ikan orange color for the button cylinder


Darn, no chance of me convincing you to get Seimitsu clear tops then.


5K!!!?? You Filipino’s are rolling in dough!! J/k J/k

My parents were born there! My dogs name is even Bontoc!! Wish I could speak the language…

Anyways…the biggest pain your going to have with that stick is desoldering and then if you wanted to, or probably need to, put quick disconnects on there.


Yeah i think ill file the holes to be a bit bigger, you think this can be done by hand? Is the difference small enough that it can be manually done?

I prefer the solid color anyways :). And i got white for all the colors. Its a clean and very neutral color. Im thinking maybe Ill spray paint the case white. Kinda making it look very wii/ipod thing. Or i could put some art on the cover panel, make it something similar to the SF4 TE stick.

Im sure you know we mean it in pesos :stuck_out_tongue:
As I noted, im planning to change the pcb anyway to a more neutral one. But yeah, since my soldering experience is pretty low, itll probably give me trouble. To desolder wouldnt I need the solder sucker and an iron? And for the quick disconnects, those are for connecting to the buttons right? How about the actual stick? And how do you daisy chain the ground with quick disconnects? Or do i have to make a ground wire for each and every button?


Well you know how we flips roll. Only diamond encrusted Hori’s with gold plated JLFs for us. :rofl:

Also, you should come home so to speak, there’s still a very healthy arcade scene here (not as good as in the 90’s, but still decent).


Goddamn Datablitz Cebu hasn’t restocked these things!!! If they don’t restock these by the end of 1st semester I’m going crazy with a poverty custom case! With that matching poverty CD-r king stick PCB! D:


Noo… you’re ruining the illusion that we Filipino’s roll with expensive, gold plated, diamond encrusted sticks worth thousands of dollars! :rofl:


I used a 200 grit sandpaper to file the holes bigger but do it from the bottom side up so that you wouldn’t scratch the shiny side… First mistake with mine… And with sandpaper I did it by hand… I suggest getting a dremel and sanding bit but if you want the cheaper method then sandpaper that bitch… haha~ Also, when I started sanding it I removed the top panel as well as the stick and buttons so that it would be easier.


Man I would love to, I still got some relatives living there. My dad is so against it though since hes all like “You don’t want to to go that corrupt place RRAAWWRR!!”


holy crap are we all Filipino here o.o?


Any chance we can get pics and walkthough of the mod being done. This would be pretty helpful to anyone planning to do a similar mod in the future (especially the part on fitting the Sanwa buttons and padhacking the CDR-King pad).


its going to basically be like a hori fs3 mod. Except you have to widen the button holes like a mayflash stick.
So you can look at those two scenarios and pretty much have the guide


sure why not, itll probably be a while though since the order will probably take a week or so (just got the order “processing” status now).

Also, to ask, the whole 4 way 8 way gate thing. Those refer to the square gate and octagon shapes am i right? For SF i hear square is mostly better?