Modding SF4 SE to be more like TE?


#1

Hey All, so im getting my first stick this week or next week. Its the SF4 FightStick SE, only because I dont have the 150bucks to get the TE unfortunately.

I’m interested in doing two things with my SE stick:

1.) Modding it with high quality Japanese parts, if possible the same buttons/stick as the TE stick.

and.

2.) Visual mods. I’d like to change the art on the face of the stick, as well as possibly color the entire case (i.e.: sides and the back.).


I read the stickies about moding the sticks and i think im well capable of doing what i need to do. Replacing the buttons should be easy, replacing the stick should be no problem. I have some limited experience with soldering and working with simple electronics, and i’m pretty familiar with the processes involved in stick modding.

I have 2 questions about the visual mods on the SE stick. Firstly, ive heard that it is much easier to mod the image on the TE stick, because you can just print out your image and cut some sheet plastic to fit on top of the image. How would one go about doing this on the SE stick? Also, how difficult would it be to paint the sides and back of the stick? (obviously i would need to remove the buttons/stick/PCBs, but is there a certain type of paint i would need to use or what?)


One more thing, how much money (USD) would i be looking at in order to upgrade the SE stick to have TE-quality parts?

Thanks guys. =) Hopefully this thread will be of use to others who are too cheap to get the TE stick. :rofl:


#2

Thanks for the info. I’m really into SF but have only been playing for about a a year and a half now. I was going to buy a stick back when the SC4 sticks came out but i decided to wait for SF4.

I’ve played both bat and ball style sticks and im positive that i prefer the ball type. I’m pretty sure i’ve tried both square gate and octagonal gate sticks before too. Iirc SF4 at narrows uses octagonal (either that or i dont know the difference :rofl:). Octagonal gate feels more circular and doesn’t lock into the diagonals correct? If that’s the case i like square more, because i find it easier to ‘feel out’ where the stick is.

So whats the difference between the OBSF-30 and the OBSF-30RG? (http://akihabarashop.jp/developments/index.php?cPath=106&osCsid=148dec83b673b11fd55ebd95a2f28987)

Also, should i get screw buttons or snap-in buttons? (from the videos of the TE stick posted today it looks like it would be easier to get the snap-ins, because of the problem with the joystick housing getting in the way one on the closest buttons.) – What are the pros/cons of each?


I feel as though i reached the limit of how good i can get with a pad. Its just too inconvenient for fighting games. Too many things are far more difficult on a pad than on a stick. I’m really interested in getting better and i like the arcade feel. =)


#3

The regular OBSF-30’s are the arcade standard, and will last a friggin’ eon even under the most cruel jackhammer punishment. This is THE Sanwa button, and THE Japanese cabinet button.

The RG’s use a longer lasting microswitch; they feel a little stiffer, cost about four times as much, and supposedly last five times as long. I wouldn’t bother getting them to be honest with you, but on the same note I’ve never heard anyone who bought RG’s regret their decision.

About this, anything “JLF” is the same basic stick model. All the letters and numbers at the end indicate tiny changes to its setup but not its functionality as a joystick. Most use the (very convenient) 5-pin connector but one has individual terminals for each microswitch; the 5-pin plug can be facing either of two possible orientations. Some include a flat mounting plate, some include a staggered one, some don’t include one at all. Some include a shaft cover.

In addition to that one shown at Lizard Lick as per the quoted link, you can see some of the other variations here…

http://akihabarashop.jp/developments/index.php?cPath=107&osCsid=185b5ac5b963ec7fa44034160fd15e81

and in this picture…

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8922/sanwazp4.jpg
(note that the JLW type is actually a different model of joystick altogether)

The mounting plates and the shaft cover can be purchased separately, and it’s generally a very simple (and cheap) task to switch one specific joystick code to another.

Shoot, this is getting kinda wordy. Hope it helps anyway! :smile:


#4

Personally I plan on madding my SE to be like a TE. I’m putting a JLF in there and Seimatsu instead of Sanwa buttons just because I like the clear button look and there isn’t a huge difference in terms of quality.

I just need to take the decal off the metal plate. I hear it’s like taking a bumper sticker off a car. I’d google it to find methods to do that and apply it to the stick


#5

I myself intend to do this as well since I didn’t get a chance to get a preorder on the TE.

I’m probably going to leave the art on (it’s ok, and I suck with Photoshop), hopefully with the right buttons and joystick that the SE will be close (if not equal) to the TE. Only thing I think I would miss would be the reinforced cord (Murphy’s Law seems to apply to me -.-)


#6

I just said JLF-TP-8T as it’s the only model lizardlick sells. Just trying to avoid confusion when he looked at the page.


#7

thx deadfrog, very informative


#8

Not if you enjoy doing it. I’m sure there are plenty of people here that enjoy messing with sticks as much as they do playing on them.


#9

best of luck on your modding dude. hope it works out.

ok, well, in canada at least… the SE runs 100$ and the TE is 200$.

so if I were to get the SE and some stuff from lizard lick. id top out at… 160$ CDN

thats for the sanwa stick, 8 buttons, octo restrictor gate, and a bubble top for shits and giggles…

I dunno, but for me, on top of the fun of just mucking around in some electronics, I get the stick I want, for 40$ cheaper, and I get spare parts to build myself a cheapy shoebox stick too. its a pretty good deal. especially when my alternative (for something at least close to what i want), im looking at 200$+ for an AIAB or a custom of sorts.

sorry, just needed to say my piece on this “modding an SE is just as/more expensive than a TE” stuff.

kajiki, I say do it up, hope to see some pics when you get it all worked out.


#10

Awesome info guys, very helpful, and if i was a premium member i would rep you all up. =)

I just now got called and told my fightstick will be here tomorrow. Awesome.

When i get some money ill definitely pick up some better buttons and a better stick and swap them in. I’ll hold off on the art mod for a little while though. =)


#11

Sanwa OBSF-30’s FTW!


#12

I just posted photos of my art mod for my SE stick over in the other forum (over here), and I found no reason to take the stock art off.


#13

I love it. Thats awesome.

Did you just print the art out on paper and screw it down under a thin layer of plastic or what?


#14

great work man I love it. Can you go a little more detail on the problem you had on the edges? I was a little fuzzy on that.


#15

Is the actual joystick on the SE bad compared to the TE?


#16

No, I used a product called a “lamilabel” from Kinko’s. It’s a two-sheet lamination sheet, where you put your piece of paper between the sheets, and then running it through a lamination machine (at Kinko’s) seals both sheets of lamination to the paper. Then, one of those sheets of lamination has a self-adhesive outer side to it, so you basically end up with a big sticker. I did a bit of trimming, and then stuck it on top of the stock artwork.

Basically, problem I had with my first attempt was that, even though I tried my hardest to get a perfect cut around the template, when I went to put it on, there were a few small areas where just being slightly off in my cutting made it so that the stock artwork was showing. I also learned that trying to get the rounded corners cut before sticking the art on was a mistake, because those are even harder to get perfect that way.

So, I re-printed the art, but now with a bit of trim area on the outside instead of having it be exact size to the stock art. I stuck it on, then went around the outer area with a razor blade using the natural groove that exists on the SE. That way, my new art was cut to be exact size instead of just hoping things ended up exact size.


#17

Wicked job on the art!


#18

I have a JLF and 6 Sanwa buttons (all in yellow, with 2 hole plugs) ready to drop into my SE stick tomorrow when I pick it up. I’ll never even touch the stock parts. I have done my fair share of modding and already have a “World Class” arcade stick (my HRAP2SA with an LS-32 and a dual/PCB mod) so I didn’t need the TE stick. I actually chose the SE so I could have a smaller stick available if I wanted it, since my HRAP is about as Huge as a TE. As far as price the SE was $80 and the parts were $55, so not really much cheaper than the TE but better for my needs, plus I KNOW I’m getting mine tomorrow.

It will be a very easy mod, and I’ll post pics and instructions of mine although I’m sure it will be covered ad nauseum.


#19

Oh boy…as soon as you said octagonal gate, you read my future doings…lol

I can’t wait to get my gate in and then I might try doing the ultimate mod…what are you thoughts on it?


#20

Thought I’d repost what I posted in another thread in here. Hope it helps you guys as far as replacing the buttons and stick. Haven’t gotten to the art part yet.

Here’s a pic of the inside.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1800/dsc0388111111111111111df1.jpg

It’s as simple as can be. Remove the 2 QD’s on a button, push the 2 tabs in to pop button out. Reverse order to put in new button. For the stick just unscrew the 4 screws. Remove the connector and then just put the sanwa one in. Bam, done in no time.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1599/dsc039011111111111rf4.jpg

Fin!