Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

There are already really detailed instructions for this sort of thing in the soldering threads located in the stickies.

Like this for example:

These are what Starcade RIP referring to:

All right… where on the PCB do I solder the ground wire after I’ve daisy-chained all the buttons?

Any of the Ground points you desire.
There are like sixteen easy ones to choose from.

Anywhere you see the G.

Diagram by Bomberman for Project.

Sweet. Well… I’ll hopefully get to that tonight. I still have to finish grinding the tabs off the button holes… they’re still taking upwards of 15 (30+ per button hole all together) minutes per tab using grinding bits and emery boards.

Takes you that long?
This is the cool way to do.

But I don’t know you want to spend more money just for modify HORI Fighting Stick 3.
How much did you spend on tools already?

I spent $10 on a soldering iron, $10 on wire, $4 on solder, $4 on desoldering braid, $6 on grinding bits and emery board. I can’t really afford to buy any more tools, as the last $40 I have to my name right now has to go to a Chtuhlu if I fuck up the HORI PCB.

I can deal with using the emery boards. I may have to go buy more, though. It takes 2-3 just to grind down a single tab.

How would I go about bending the tabs on the Seimitsu PS-14-KNs in such a way where the Quick Disconnects will still connect and the tab won’t break off?

why are you wanting to bend them in the 1st place? its really not needed

It is needed. For one, you can’t fit the PCB in there properly if you don’t, and for two, the quick disconnects won’t fit if you don’t.

fit the qd’s then bend it, simple as that

All right…

So far…

-All tabs are ground down and all buttons have been fastened in.
-I’ve soldered new wires onto the old wires for the joystick to extend their length.
-I’ve replaced all of the stock Microswitches with Cherry microswitches.
-I’ve replaced the spring with an LS-32-01 spring.

All connections thus far have been tested and are working wonderfully. I must say, I really love the feel of the Cherry microswitches + LS-32-01 Spring. It’s very responsive and pops back to neutral very quickly. It’s also much quieter than the JLF. All-in-all, I’d say it’s totally on par with the JLF. No question.

I’m going to wire up the buttons later tonight and give the full progress report and hopefully post pictures. I may even get my girlfriend to model with the stick. :T

I’ve encountered a problem…

I’ve wired up all of my buttons… but only three of them work. Can anyone diagnose my problem?

Possibly you lifted off the contacts while desoldering. I have a de-sodering pump to remove the solder, but it was still a bitch to do.

might have to trace the pcb around the suspect buttons and find another contact point.

Edit: I read back and you started with a 100 watt iron. That could have done it.

What do you mean “trace the PCB”?

Follow the green lines from the non-working Button.
Trace, as in follow, where the line leads to.
You’ll find alternate points or something.

rtdzign, I have that SAME Pump.
Same brand and all that.
But like 15+ years.

And if you can’t find an alternate solder point, as a last resort you can scrape away some of the green coating on the trace to expose the copper underneath, and very carefully solder to the trace itself. Then stick a huge glob of hot glue on it to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere.

How should I scrape it away? I’m trying to trace and solder, but I can’t seem to find the right points, and I can’t solder the wires on, anyway, since they’re so damn small.

Yes, you can solder to the Trace also.
Yes, it thin and hard to do.

And read these if you have to:

Gah… I ca’t get these stupid buttons to work. I scraped some ofthe pcb back to reveal the copper ring and soldered to it, but still nothing. I dunno what to do now… I don’t think I have the skill or steadiness to solder to the trace. :confused: