Mounting a Seimitsu LS-32 to wood panel


#1

Hello Shoryuken.

I apologize if this has been answered a thousand times, but I’ve looked all over for advice or pictures examples and have come up short.

I’ll be building my first arcade cabinet/control panel very soon. I decided to go with the Seimitsu LS-32 as my joysticks of choice.

I understand mounting these sticks directly to the bottom of a thick wooden panel is a big NO, but I’m a bit confused on how to properly mount these things from the top.

http://members.cox.net/oxtsu/SGO_LS32_B.jpg

I have to cut a hole to fit the bulk of the stick’s base, than a recessed area for the plate, correct? But the bottom of the stick has the microswitches sticking out beyond the plate.

How do you go about properly mounting the sticks considering you need space for both the switches and the mounting plate?

Any pics would be appreciated.


#2

I would suggest using the two circular holes for mounting.

Here, I top-mounted my LS-32 with a S-shape mounting plate using its aligned circular holes. Tekken 5 Hori uses a metal faceplate, however.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1391.snc4/164297_1462085522505_1544485080_969667_2959240_n.jpg

Nuts and bolts from the Tekken 5 Hori were used, but can also use these awesome screws and bolt/washer combo from akihabarashop.jp.


#3

If you ever have a joystick construction question, check slagcoin first. It’s an awesome site. Here are a ton of mounting examples. I personally recommend going with one that does not have the screws/bolts from the joystick mounting plate visible on the top panel. They look cleaner and won’t irritate your hands.

Click the link for more info.
Joystick Controller - Panel Mounting and Layering


#4

Ideally you would have a wood router involved, or you could use 2 layers of MDF.
You should check out slagcoin and look up on Youtube how to use a wood router.

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering.html


#5

slow poke!


#6

Three layers in my opinion is the easiest method. If you don’t have a router but have your forstner bits, just use your drill/drill press and drill down accordingly to your bottom layer, then use the second layer as an outline for the mounting plate, and then have your third layer of plexi on top. My sticks usually follow the 3 panel layer method so you don’t see the ugly circles around the plate when you mount it.


#7

Hey, tanks for all the advice.

Starcade, believe it or not, I actually WANT the exposed bolt heads on the panel surface.

I know it’s undesirable to most people, but it’s actually kind of nostalgic to me from playin arcades as kid. I remember all the arcades I played as a kid having bolts (and sometimes other security measures) all over panel and cabinet. Ugly to some, very “authentic” looking to me.

Besides, I figure it would save me time and trouble coming up with some elaborate woodworking methods to hide them. I’m okay with just cutting/routing my space, and boltin down the lil sucker raw.

Also, Rtdzign, I already own a Dewalt Router, along with a handy jig saw, and appropriate forstner bit.

Do you all really think multiple layering is necessary for this? Are LS-32s known to be impossible to mount on thick panels otherwise?

I might grab some scrap wood and test it out on my own soon, it just seems awkward how much space the body of the stick needs along side a groove for the entire plate to fit.

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/5-80-thickbox/seimetsu-ls-32.jpg


#8

You can bottom mount if you want and don’t mind the visible bolts/screws. All the measurements you need are in the slagcoin link we gave you.


#9

I was just about to ask if bottom mounting is cool provided proper routing to get the stick at an appropriate height. I thought it would possibly damage the panel considering how deep I’d have to route it in.


#10

If you want visible top bolts I would suggest this method but also drill through the top and insert your bolts on top.

I am assuming that you are going to use the LS32 with the flat plate

You will need to route about 1/8 inch for the mounting plate, then route for the microswitch leads so they can drop in. Also take into account quick disconnects so add uncrimped QDs on while you route for them if you plan to use them. It might just be better to just solder wires directly to the leads, so the less will be routed and the plate will be more stable.

You should use nylon washers under your top panel but on top of your mounting plate to keep the plate secured and to keep your acrylic top panel from sinking in.