Multi Pad Hack Questions

Just wanted to ask somethings about pad hacking an Xb1 and DS4 control for a fight stick. Basically I would like a link to a tutorial or thread I may have missed, that shows how to have the two separate PCBs connected with a switch to pick between the two.

You can continue to read the rest if you want. Its just a crappy worded overly convoluted brain puke of junk I was thinking and typing. I apologize to anybody who bothers with it.

1.) Would it be best to wire them up separately and have their USB connections fitted to a switch, which could then flipped to the PCB I need. Or to have two separate cables.
Having them select-able will keep it neater with the single USB cable leaving the fight stick. But it will mean there is an extra switch inline which will add to the resistance thus making the lag of the stick higher. Is the lag a switch adds anything to even be bothered with in high level competitive play.

2.) To add a switch to the set up. Would I wire them up independently, attach both to the buttons and whatnot of the fight stick. And then have a short USB cable for each PCB attached to the switch. So in essence when I’m switching, its changing between the entire PCB. I ask this because I have seen some people wire the separate PCBs together and the switch is just used to send the power source to the desired PCB.

3.) On the fight stick there is an Xbox button. will I need to wire this to the Xb1 PCB Xbox button and the PS4 PCB PS button. And how will that button be connected to the switch. I assume when I press the button on the fight stick it will activate both. Even the one I don’t intend using at that time. As I typed that question I think I realized that the one I don’t intend using wont be getting power since the switch to select between the PCBs wont be activating it. Yet I’m still confused since I have seen the pictures of the two PCBs wired together. And I feel researching things to much just screws me over.

There are a crapton of dual-mod tutorials out there.
Start here:

No. Just… no.

No. People don’t switch the power source to the PCBs, people are switching the data lines (D+ and D-).
Golden rule of multi-PCB mods: all PCBs must have Ground and Vcc connected together at all times.

Yes. Home/PS will technically “press” on both PCBs when you press it. But since one of the two PCBs isn’t actually connected (data-line-wise) to a console, it wouldn’t matter.
And I refer back to my answer to you question number 2: ALL PCBs MUST be powered at all times.

Adding this as a second post because the first one is frustrating me.

That shows the two PCBs linked together. The DS4 PCB is connected to the Xb1 PCB. The Xb1 PCB is then connected to the buttons of the fight stick. And the only USB cable in the mix is the one one connected to the Xb1 PCB. There is a switch in the tutorial. Which seems to connected only to the DS4 signal wires. And going nowhere from there. Is there a step I have missed or am I just seeing this wrong.

Thanks Freedom. That helps a lot. Will check out that link now.

I have been reading that the DS4 isn’t good for pad hacking as it has connectivity issues when used wired. And I have no intention of connecting wirelessly. I am looking more into this to see what others have to say about it. Unfortunately I have to use the DS4 as its the only remote we get in SA.

Have you or anybody else got anything to say about the connectivity issue with the DS4.

Easiest ps4 option right now is the Brook ps3/ps4 board or their 4 in one (ps4/ps4/xbone/360) board (the latter being quite expensive), though it’s worth pointing out that Brook’s ps4 compatibility is vulnerable to ps4 system updates (they have had a fix very quickly when this occurred before). Padhack wise, the Hori Fighting Commander 4 has been the go to ps4 pad- it’s cheaper than a ds4, it’s wired, and it’s very easy to padhack.

Not sure where you’re pointing to; the first page of that thread doesn’t show any sort of dual-mod; I couldn’t find any dual-mod references in that entire thread at all either.

This might cause problems for you.
The DS4 supposedly never really works “wired”; when you plug in the controller via the USB, it powers the controller and it connects wirelessly with the console.
As opposed to the XBO controller, which switches to a wired-mode-only when you plug in the cable.

Everything else that @PresidentCamacho said should be taken into consideration as well.

@FreedomGundam. There is a few images in the link that show the DS4 PCB having its ground connected to the Xb1 PCB. And its 5v connected to a PS360+. I won’t be using the PS360+ so the 5v will be connected to the Xb1 PCB as well. Then there is a DPTP that the DS4 PCB is connected to. And after that the DS4 PCB has its “button” cables, for lack of a better description, connected directly to the Xb1 PCB. All of it was explained extremely well in that link you posted for me. Again, thanks, it helped so much.

The only thing I need to figure out is the connectivity now. Since its pretty much faking a DS4 control it shouldn’t be an issue if the fight stick it goes into is relatively the same as the DS4 control. Such as an all plastic case like the TE 1. Or is it something in the process of pad hacking or multi modding that causes interference.

@PresidentCamacho. I would love to get a different pad or PCB to do the mod. But unfortunately the only pad I have access to in my country is the original controls from Sony and Microsoft. I can get a TE:2 for the PS for less than what it will cost to import all the aftermarket bits people recommend. And still pad hack a Xb1 control.

Where a Xb1 remote and a DS4 remote will set me back $45. According to Googles converter. Second hand.

It’s not “faking” a DS4, it IS a DS4.
And I’m not really sure why you’re erring on the paranoid side and worrying about interference and all. Any empty case out there will work just fine for what you’re looking to do.

It’s obviously up to you in the end, but keep in mind what you might save right now in terms of money may be negated by headaches later on. Our recommendation here in Tech Talk is still to use anything else rather than an official DS4.

Meant faking as in the fight stick isn’t a DS4. It would just have the innards. The point was to question if the casing made a difference, if it was the fact that the PCB had been messed with or if it is a general problem and that even a brand new un-messed with DS4 would still give the problems when connected via USB just because that’s the way the DS4 is designed. The Pad Hacked PCBs will be going in a TE Round One or a Hori UMVC3.

I think I will give the DS4 thing a shot. And when I can afford it or when I have mates going across to the states I will get something better and swap it out. I hate to waste the time and money. But unfortunately its the only way right now. But I do most of my gaming on the Xb1. Perhaps I will just get the Xb1 compatibility working and play SFV on PC in the mean time. Good talk. Good talk.

The board or PCB of the DS4 makes it a DS4. The console/computer does not care what the case is or what buttons or joystick you are using.
All the Console cares about is the board inside.

hi all i am new here and i have some question about ds4 pcb …
i have a ps3 arcade stick a hori soulcalibur 5 can i connect the button of the stick to my ds4 pcb ?
i follow the tutorial to connect the xbox one stick but when i realise that is an xb1 stick i just realize that i open my pcb for nothing maybe some one can help me ?
sorry for my english i am french and cant speak english realy good but i understand a lot…
hope for some help.
A new challenger as enter the ring!!! and he is low tiers ^^

DS4 PCB isn’t a mod for beginners

yes i know it, and but i am sure that i can do it ! just whant some reference , some explanation, some advice i can post some photos for more details .
pls help me,

Look at any other PS4 controller PCB, the Hori Fight Pad, the PDP MK Fight pad, Brook’s PS4 PCB, Brooks Universal PCB