My Custom Stick In Progress

I finally got started building my first custom stick. I’ll be documenting it here on Blogspot in case anyone wants to see this thing come to life. Feel free to chime in if you see that I’m hosing anything. :rofl:

http://spamvswild.blogspot.com/

I’ll update this thread as I get further along in the project.

button placement seems a bit off…

The stick seems to be too far below the buttons. Any reason for this choice? (I’ll assume it’s not a mistake, since slagcoin is a pretty popular joystick resource I’ll give you the benefit of doubt and assume you did your research.)

I’m actually basing this on what feels comfortable to my hands. I tried some other “standard” layouts and they just didn’t feel right. I ended up cutting a template into pieces and moving things around until the placement felt right. It’s definitely not standard. This layout allows me to rest my wrists comfortably on the top panel… I’m lazy like that. :wgrin:

Cool man, Custom layout for maximum comfort. :lol:

Yeah… that’s the idea at least. We’ll see how it turns out. At least if I don’t like it, I have a crap load more MDF and Lexan and I can cut a new top panel.

Murphy’s Law says that I’ll probably end up doing that anyway. :lol:

Cool. Custom layout is the way to go then!

noob question. was the lexan on there when you cut those hole? how do you make the mdf and lexan holes line up perfectly? is it easy to mess up?

I’ve never cut it before. I’m probably going to do that part last and will likely use my brother’s drill press so the Lexan is supported while I drill. The other option is to do it using my Dremel router setup. I can use my MDF top piece as the router guide wile I trim away the button and joystick holes in the lexan. I have enough for 3 projects so if I screw up with one method, I’ll switch to another.

I hope someone else has a better answer.

Nice work! Keep it up!

Awesome. I’m about 2 steps behind you on the same project. I made a template from my SF2T arcade cabinet controls, but spaced the joystick a little further and added the 7th and 8th buttons. I’m still in the cardboard template phase, but its great to see:

A) The in progress work on such a piece
B) Happ controls!

Great work man.

Thanks dude. I’m totally new at this so my first will probably turn out to be piece of s#!t, but it will be a function POS. Not sure what I’ll be working on tonight… I’ll probably start cutting the sides of the box and assembling that.

You’re actually one-up on me. I didn’t use cardboard. I printed a paper template, decided I didn’t like the placement, and decided to wing the button placement based on resting both hands on the panel. I haven’t even decided where the Start and Analog buttons will go… perhaps on the side panel.

Good luck with your project.

Making a little more progress. I redid the top panel and decided to go with one of the templates on slagcoin.com. Still have a ways to go, but the joystick is playable now. It’s going to take some time transitioning from the gamepad to the joystick, seeing as how I got my ass handed to me yesterday during my road test.

http://spamvswild.blogspot.com/

Hey Spam, what are the exterior dimensions of your box? I gather that the Length+Width are 9.25" and 11.25" respectively, but its the depth I’m curious about. I’m also curious how deep you routed the recesses for the joystick. My prototype has not been routed and the Happ competition stick sits a bit lower than I’d like, albeit it does work perfectly.

Great work.

The full dimensions are roughly 12"W x 10"D x 4"H. I say roughly because I’m still learning how to cut properly with the circular saw. My measurements may be off by 1/16" or so. I think the 4"H is pretty accurate since I bought the pine board from Lowes or Home Depot already cut to that width. I just had to chop the length I wanted.

The top panel itself (minus the pine box) was 10 1/2"W by 8 1/2"D using 3/4" MDF.

As for the joystick recess, I routed that at about 1/4" deep so that I can gain a little extra height. I didn’t want to go any further because that only leaves 1/2" of MDF to support the mounted joystick and I have no idea if the structural integrity will become a problem if I route any more than that. You may be able to route out a bit more than I did and still have the stability. I’m actually quite impressed how well the MDF holds up, especially when drilling the 1 1/8" holes for the buttons so close together. Nothing seems like it’s about to split.

Yeah, I noticed the same thing about the MDF in my old old (like 10 year old) sub woofer box. The MDF is still pretty much the same as new, and its never been primed/painted.