My first build, New to everything!


#1

Hi, this is my first joystick build - Driven by my love of MAME and Street Fighter 4.

Materials Costings:

White Oak 5’6"x2.75"x1/2" = 12 (Jewsons)
6 MDF panels cut to 333mm x 256mm = 5 (B&Q)
Mad Catz Retro stick = 9.99 (Play, 2nd hand)
2 x Chun Li Matt prints = 7.33 (photobox)

Sanwa Parts all from Gremlin (waiting for order to arrive)
Sanwa Joystick JLF-TP-8S (White)
5 Pin Joystick Cable
Octo gate
6 x Sanwa Buttons OBSN-30 (White)
3 x Sanwa Buttons OBSF-24 (Red) = 50 approx

To Buy
2mm Acrylic, works out at 46 for 2 pre drilled tops + 2 pre drilled bottoms from RED ltd
I may buy blank sheets and try and drill myself, much cheaper and I get the experience

OK I have cut the OAK to the correct dimensions, and I am experimenting with making tidy joints from the scrap.

This is a dowel and glue joint, which is tidy and seems very strong.
I used 8mm x 40mm dowels and evo stick wood glue, once clamped I tidied up the glue with a damp cloth and left to dry for 24 hours. (the chips, rough edges and some rounded corners are me experimenting, This is just for the joint)

Picture of the Chun Li art, the bottom pic show what needs to be trimmed (on the right) the dots on the MDF show the hole centres for the stick and 6 top face buttons.

This is my test bed for the Mad Catz Retro PCB, yes it is common ground :slight_smile:

Hopefully my clamps and sanwa parts will arrive anyday, then I can make the enclosure and decide what I’m doing about the acrylic.


#2

Looks good so far. Is that price right for the cut plexi, 46 quid! :wow: Damn, drill it yourself and save the difference.


#3

Yeah pretty insane, here is my quote with the reply.
(A3 sheets are 1.80 each!)

Hi XXXX,
Thanks for the enquiry for the 2mm clear acrylic machined panels, drilled to your instructions. The total price for all 4 pieces is 38.00 Plus 8.00 Delivery (uk mainland)

Hope this is of help.
Best Regards,
Andy Caley
plasticonline@btinternet.com
Phone: 01482 333800

From: XXXXX
Subject: Online Quotation Request
To: info@plasticonline.co.uk
Date: Friday, 20 March, 2009, 12:25 AM

First Name: XXXX

Last Name: XXXX

Phone: XXXX

Mobile:

Email Address: XXXX

Delivery Address: XXXX

Type of Material Acrylic (Perspex)

Quantity (If more than one size please list all sizes in ‘Additional
Info’ Box): 4

Thickness: 2mm

Colour: Clear

Width (Diameter If Tube): 333

Length: 256

Measurement: mm

Edge Finish: Diamond Polished

Corner Radius / Rounded Corners: Not Required

Drill Hole Diameter: Other - Please state in ‘Additional Information’

Drill Hole Quantity: Other - - State Details Below

Additional Information: Please supply 2 of each panel

PANEL 1 (333mm x 256mm x 2mm)

Drill holes centres
24mm Hole X=100mm Y= 85
30mm Hole X=195mm Y=73mm
30mm Hole X=230mm Y=59mm
30mm Hole X=265mm Y=67mm
30mm Hole X=189mm Y=112mm
30mm Hole X=223mm Y=98mm
30mm Hole X=257mm Y=104mm

PANEL 2 (333mm x 256mm x 2mm)

Drill holes centres
5mm Hole X=25mm Y=25mm
5mm Hole X=308mm Y=25mm
5mm Hole X=25mm Y=231mm
5mm Hole X=308mm Y=231mm

How Did You Hear About Us: Search Engine


#4

wait, are you getting it water cut or laser cut?


#5

Pretty sure I wasn’t asked


#6

If it’s common ground why do you have 2 wires per button?


#7

I was experimenting on the test bed, then I found out (via this superb forum) that these PCB’s can be common ground, having tested and verified this I am now re-wiring the PCB to common ground.

Regarding the acrylic, I have ordered 10 sheets of A3 for 29.50 - lots of scope for experimenting and learning how to cut edges and holes. (I have cheekily asked them to cut it to size for free, Ill let you know how I get on haha)


#8

Quick question about securing the top plexi - I have noticed that some sticks (including the Norris arcade) secure the plexi with just the button pressure, while others have extra screws in the corners.

What are the pros/cons?


#9

pro’s = it looks a lot neater

cons = cuts have to be spot on so its real tight and not much room for error


#10

Exactly, I myself am also anti-screw in the top panel. The thinner you go with plexi, the more chance it can curl up and the more precise and tight you have to make it fit.


#11

Good luck. The artwork is nice. I’m thinking about posting one of these myself as soon as I get around to getting off my ass and actually starting it.


#12

Yeah, the chun li art is very nice - heavily used, but still nice.

Question, how would you fix the corner supports - like the norris?

They are going to be supporting a lot of abuse, so would need to be very strong fixings, I was going to make an inner frame, but this looks much neater - if its strong enough.


#13

I’ve gone this route and glued / tacked them into the corners, we’ll see how it works!


#14

Did a little more experimenting today, made a mockup outer shell from MDF, it came out OK, used 2 dowels per corner and sanded it down quite a bit to round the outer edges. Want to make sure im happy with the scale and angle before I go ruining the oak!

Still not sure how to support the top panel, 4 corner posts like codethief and norris or a complete inner frame or maybe 2 rails.

Still waiting for my acrylic and sanwa parts!

Outer shell

With top inserted (tight fit, holds itself in place)

Outer dimensions
Height front = 45mm
Height back = 66mm
Depth = 279mm
Width = 357mm


#15

Sorry little off topic…but man that Chun Li print out on sticks is getting old, real fast…lol

Nice wood work though, wish I was as good with wood as I am with metal =/.


#16

Yeah the art is heavily used! but I can see myself getting into stick building big time, after I use those 2 prints I will be on the hunt for more quality art :slight_smile:


#17

You can cut plexi with a razor knife and a straight edge relatively easily, just make sure its scored deep enough. It will probably require a bit of filing/sanding to smooth the snapped edge. Alternatively you can cut them on a table saw, if you have one that cuts nice and straight, with a high tooth count blade made for such a task (I’ve actually cut some with normal rip blades, they work fine if its setup right and you’re only doing a couple pieces).

For holes in the plexi you can use regular hole saw bits, or forstner bits. Obviously a drill press would be recommended, however i suppose with some patience a hand drill would work. Drill small pilot holes first, then your 30mm holes. If you get screw in buttons they actually hold the plexi down pretty tightly to the top plate. If you decide to put in corner holes to hold the plexi you can drill and counter sink them, and use some pan head screws to keep them flush. :slight_smile:

Keep in mind as well, a router would save you a ton of time on the corner/edge shaping. Oak will take quite some time to sand to a curve, but its possible!

The corner posts from norris are also doweled into one side to help support the weight. They support it just fine, however any method you’ve mentioned will work really, they dont take as much of a beating as you might expect.


#18

Thanks for the info, I think I will dowel my supports and go for the norris look.

I have a router, but Im very new to it - I routed the edges of the MDF box with a 45 degree bit, but cocked it up a bit (I routed after assembley! doh… So when I was doing the slanted edges, the router base plate hit the joining piece and gave me the wrong cut) - You can see some of it on the last picture, bottom right corner).

I have some forstner router bits on order, what Im going to try is clamp the plexi between 2 mdf pieces and use to router on slow speed to cut the top mdf and plexi.


#19

yeah a chamfer bit on a hand held router might be an issue, I have a hard enough time getting them cut nice on a router table let alone freehand! Looks like you got most of it down though! goodluck!


#20

30mm Hole Saw in the UK?

Im currentley trying to find a 30mm hole saw, here in the UK we only have 29mm and 32mm as standard sizes. What have you guys used and can you tell where i can get one? Would it be safe to use a 32mm for my Sanwa buttons???