I intend using forstner bits for my router, try here
I’d rather widen a 29 mm hole than have a 32 hole that was too big.
Forstner bits are for drills, not routers.
look for these:
24 mm is 15/16"
30mm is 1-3/8"
they make those for sure, but i couldn’t find them at any of the big stores, try a specialized hardware store?
thanks i guess its because we use the metric system. ill keep looking!!
What are these bits for? Link
Very nice mate. Did they cut you the MDF to size at B&Q? At my local they only seemed to have massive sheets.
Btw, you have any previous experience with woodworking? You don’t seem bad at all!! Lol.
At my local B&Q (Exeter) they have a scrap bin, I picked a decent sized piece of mdf out of there and got them to cut me six panels 333mm x 256mm (one is in the chun li pic), this cost me 5 for all 6 panels. I cut one of the panels down with a normal saw to make the pictured enclosure.
Never really done any woodworking, mdf is very easy to work with - give it a go - you will be surprised how easy it is!
they are mislabled for sure, forstner bits go in drills not in routers. And because of how they cut they work much much better in a drill press, just because of how the hole is cut across the entire bottom. Like i said, it can be done with a hand drill and alot of patience im sure.
Yea I’ve seen the same artwork at least on 10 different sticks already,
Thanks Renahzor, I will avoid putting them in my router! I’ll give it a go in my hand drill - if not I might but a pillar drill. Looking at pillar drills, they don’t seem to have much clearance from the chuck to the pillar - how do you drill more than a few inches from the edge of the workpiece?
jeenyus1: To my eye it is amazing artwork, and I have paid to have it professionally printed - too late this time!
If you wanted to put in 2 more holes, 1 on each side your case, you could wire the triggers of that pad with 1/4 watt 10k ohm resistors. The SF4 gallery uses LT and RT for moving through the pictures. Could work well with a pinball game if you download one.
I was looking into that, but the thread I was viewing seemed to be plagued with problems, sometimes the buttons would stop responding and would only resume when unplugging then plugging back in the usb cable.
If this has been resolved, its a great idea! do you have a link handy?
Ignore the stuff about the saturn. You want to connect the 10 k resistors to the top two (out of three) trigger points. Solder the signal for the trigger to the midde point (wiper) Marked by the red dot. As for the buttons not working not sure, maybe they have a sloppy solder or used a high wattage iron. Mine work okay for now.
Thanks for the info, seems really simple, loop the 10k on pins 1 and 2, then use pin 2 and common ground for the button.
I will be rewiring my pad for the common ground tomorrow - do you know the solder point for the back and guide button (ie top/bottom/left/right) off hand?
I will try the triggers when I rewire
I think this pic off of slagcoin.com should help you. Great site to read through if you already haven’t. A clue is usaually there will be one side of the contacts that has a trace going away to a microcontroller and the other side will go to the common line that links up with the other commons on the buttons. Well for some pcbs anyway. Don’t forget to clip off the pots (black things with circle spinny thingy inside) and do it carefully, don’t just rip it out with the contact attached. I would solder it off using a needle nose and gravity.
Pillar Drills, or drill presses, should have between 6-8" at least from the pillar to the center of the chuck, maybe more. If you have workpieces much larger than that (maybe… a 24x24 sheet you want a hole in the dead center of?) you just use a hand drill, or if its something you’re doing alot, a C&C router would be used instead. We have a very small, inexpensive drill press and it works just fine for drilling the holes for joystick tops.
I bought both 24mm and 30mm hole saws + arbor from www.rapidonline.com
Arrived: Plexi - cut to size for free
Still waiting for sanwa parts - just spoken to Andy at Gremlin - He assures the parts will be with me saturday latest!
Drilled through the plexi and into the mdf top, preventing any chip out from the plexi - This stuff is really easy to handle, dont know what all the fuss is about chipping? cracking? none of that here - just put the forstner bit in the 14.4v battery drill and drilled through!
Reverse side of the panel, I have cut out a slightly larger hole to accomodate the screw tightner for the buttons, the diameter and depth will probably have to be changed when I get the actual buttons
This is another mockup shell I made, this time the routing is much better (not perfect, but better) and it has just been filled, ready for another sand - the contour you see is on all 4 outer faces.
- Rewire pad for common ground
- Finalise corner post heights and assemble into shell
- Drill bottom plexi
- Cut holes for headphone jack and usb cable
- spray outer shell
- have it all ready for friday
and probably loads more bits and pieces
Is there a guide or exact dimensions for routing the hole in the control panel for the Sanwa Joystick JLF-TP-8S?
good stuff man, im in the schematic stage of building my first stick, so im glad to see your progress. im currently trying to figrue out how to make my box. there’s so many options possible. The one crit i’d give is that chun li art is used by like everyone. but regardless it still looks dope.
where’d you get that pic? they have ones like that for other characters?
Thanks, the parts should all be assembled by this weekend - showing an actual working stick!
I found the “hated!” chun li artwork through google, like this Link just search for extra large images.
I have some vintage HR Giger prints which are amazing, Once I build my final stick (out of oak) I will probably use one of those, maybe selling my MDF enclosures with the chun li art!