My gaming set-up


I’ve been working alone over the past few months to configure gaming set-up with minimal input lag and no degradation in video quality. I plan on hooking all of my video gaming consoles up to 2 monitors with surround sound. So far, I plan on hooking up a nes, snes, phillips cd-i, n64, ps1, gamecude, ps2, wii, ps3, wiiu and ps4 to a benq rl2755hm and a samsung un65ju7500. I don’t want to mod any of my systems, since these are my originals and I’m ok with only going to s-video instead of rgb for video output on older consoles. I will try and explain my set-up with links to the products I will be using.

BenQ RL2566HM & Samsung UN65JU7500
hdmi cables
Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI® Splitter with HDCP 2.2 Support
hdmi cable
Lifestyle® SoundTouch 535 entertainment system
hdmi cable
Blackbird 4K Pro 5x1 HDMI® Switch with HDCP 2.2 Support

split 1
hdmi cable
s-video cable
Shinybow SB-5560
input 1) composite to nes
input 2) s-video to snes
input 3) s-video to n64
input 4) s-video to phillips cd-i
input 5) s-video to ps1

split 2
hdmi cable
Component Video + Digital Coaxial and Digital Optical Audio to HDMI® Converter
component cable + optical audio cable
Shinybow SB-5526
input 1) component to gamecube
input 2) component + optical audio to ps2
input 3) component to wii

split 3

split 4

split 5

I’ve been searching for a few months for currently available s-video and component switches and can’t seem to find much. I haven’t heard much on shinybow, but what I’ve heard hasn’t been particularly good concerning quality. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully, I’ll be able to start testing this rig in the next 6 months, once the part start coming in.



Depending on the SNES model you have, the SNES does output RGB video. Only the later SNES Mini needs a mod to restore RGB back to the multi out.
The N64, older board revisions can go though the same mod the SNES Mini goes though to restore RGB.

The PS1 and PS2 supports RGB right out of the console without any mods, but with the PS2 you lose the 480i, 480p and 1080i modes (some games do support 1080i on the PS2).
So with the PS2 you might want to stick with component video.

For your BenQ RL2566HM as I know it supports VGA, did you consider the XRGB 2, XRGB 2 Plus or XRGB 3?
The Framemeister XRGB Mini does suffer a 2 frame delay.

I have my self the XRGB 2 Plus, and it has zero lag as there actually no processing going on.
It just Line doubles the video and converts the signals from what ever format over to VGA + Audio out.

Shinybow isn’t the best but they are far from the worst.

Also for the S-video switches, its becoming harder and harder to find any analog video switches of quality.
Like I am considering this for a RGB video switcher


There’s a new scaler device coming out that may interest you (Open-source scan converter, OSSC) that has no input lag but I do not believe it takes Y/C inputs, so you’re out of luck if you’re going to only use s-video.

Why use another device to connect component & audio to HDMI? What’s the point of using your nice framemeister for the older consoles and not using it with these consoles as well? I’m pretty sure you can plug all of these into that device using the d-sub port, someone correct me if I’m wrong.

Extron RGBHV BNC switches do pop up now and then, sometimes you can get lucky but the prices can range from low to high. I’ve seen them as cheap as $60 and as high as $250+


Thanks for the input everyone.

Darksakul, I’ve considered the xrgb-3, but it says that it doesn’t work well with most new displays. The xrgb-mini has a 22 ms input lag vs the xrgb-3 with 2 ms.

As far as I can tell, the xrgb-3 would require an upscaler added to it to allow it to work with most modern monitors/tvs. I’m not sure what the best upscaler would be to use with the xrgb-3 to minimize input lag. It would need to be less that 20 ms to make it worth adding to the set-up. Do you know of any upscalers that can provide this? The cable inputs of the xrgb-3 make we want to consider this one, cuts down on a lot of switches.

kardus, I’ve rethought a lot of my set-up after you mentioned plugging component to the xrgb-mini. I was planning I buying a 480p upscaler, which would have been a costly investment to say the least. I may not get the same results, but it’s a great compromise that cuts down on connections. It also cuts the overall cost of the project by a lot, thanks!

Thanks everyone,


The XRGB 3 can output 1080p, so you don’t need an additional upscaller. You will need to make sure the firmware is updated so you can apply the English Firmware patch.

The XRGB 2 and 2 Plus would need an additional scaller unless you are fine with your display upscaling the video.

Here is some sites worth reading

There also the following threads on Here and Shump forums

I can respect you wanting to keep your consoles as original as possible, I do see RGB mods as continuing the life of a console rather than the destruction of said console.


One thing I did recently (which you may want to consider if you really want to keep costs down) is getting a second hand late 2000’s (2008-2010 ish) surround AV receiver for dirt cheap. For about $100 I recently picked up TOTL Pioneer receiver of that time (MSRP $1400-2000+) and it has:

  • 4 hdmi in, 2 out
  • 3 component in, 1 out
  • 4 composite in, 3 out
  • 5 s-video in, 1 out
  • 3 optical in, 2 out
  • 2 coax in, 1 out
  • countless RCA audio in/outs
  • however many channel amplifier x 120W
  • analogue radio, XM & serius radio inputs
  • Your typical surround speaker post inputs

If you need 4k for whatever reason that could just go straight into your television. Since there are both analogue and digital audio outputs you can always connect the receiver your audio to an external DAC/amp or another sound system if thats what you want, effectively using the receiver as a multi-input switch. Not as impressive or robust as having multiple standalone switches for everything, but this solution effectively cuts out a bunch of devices from your setup to only 1) your scaler (framemeister), and 2) the receiver, plus optionally your external sound system.


I’ve read through just about everything you provided, along with the smash boards. I’ve reworked everything in my rig to try and decrease input lag, while maintaining decent graphical output. I decided to give the xrgb-3 a shot after you’re suggestion. The only thing I hate about the xrgb-3 is the video and audio output, hardest part to work into the plan. Transcoding vga to component and finding a low lag alternative to get to hdmi was a pain. From what research I was able to do, the xrgb-1 adds 3ms, the trandscoder adds 0ms, and the elgato adds about 3ms.

Here’s my set-up map as of now:

I hope this crude diagram makes sense. I used shmups to find the best way to change vga to component. I then used smash to find the best way to go component to hdmi.



That seems like a wonderful solution. I agree that it would cut down on the cost of splitters and converters tremendously. The only part I can’t get onboard with with this device, is that if you plug all different sources into it and output them all as hdmi, that signal has to be converted. This would add lag and could change the video quality that is output onto the screen.

I get that this may be minimal, but I’m looking for an optimal set-up and money is not a limiting factor. A basic c&e converted for straight component to hdmi add 3-6 ms of lag, and that’s an easy conversion by a newer device, only meant to do one conversion, not an older device doing many types of conversions. Speaking from a medical point of view, I always find that something that states it can do many things, doesn’t do any of those single functions particularly well.

Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the input and you taking the time to reply to my post. It’s just not the direction I see this project going. I appreciate the link, it’ll help when I set-up an av room for the family.



I think you’ve misinterpreted what I’m saying here! I wasn’t suggesting that you output via HDMI at all (except for wiiu, ps3, etc.) as that would be counter intuitive to your purposes… if you want to upscale properly with minimal lag that what your external scaler device is for. You definitely don’t want to be using a reciever to convert and thats not what I suggested. In fact, many receivers of that era did not have scalers. That particular one in the picture coincidentially does as it was a top of the line/more current (2009) model, but you can totally disable it and use all the inputs/outputs simply as pass-through connections with ZERO processing.

So, my suggestion was that your devices could be plugged into this and then you could pass the output for each connection type (component, s-video, composite, etc.) to your framemeister or other scaler device. In that case the only lag being added would be from your display and possibly your scaler depending on which one you’re using. As I mentioned before, with this soluation one is effectively using the receiver’s assignable IN/OUTs and input switching functionality as a way to have everything connected and easily switchable in one device.
Your chain with a reciever as pass-through would be something like:

  • Retro consoles (s-video/composite IN) -> receiver (s-video/composite OUT)-> scaler -> display
  • Component consoles (component IN) -> receiver (component OUT)-> scaler -> display
  • HDMI consoles (hdmi IN) -> receiver (hdmi OUT) -> display [can optionally put your scaler before the display here if you want to upscale HDMI 480/720p to 1080]
  • Any RCA or digital audio from consoles -> receiver -> [tv or external sound system]

So, everything connects to the receiver with its native input which then goes to the scaler. The only processing done here is by the scaler itself, which is what you want. If money is no object then I agree that getting dedicated switches for each input would be nice, but what I suggested does, in fact, accomplish the same thing.


I’m sorry for misinterpreting your post. That makes great sense. From what I gather, pioneer is top notch company, so I imagine the image quality doesn’t suffer. This may be a great option. Sorry for dismissing it without fully understanding.

Put that together with finally figuring out how to get a ps360+ fight stick to work with all my main systems and I’ve got a great set-up, thanks!