My JLF won't register the "down" command!


#1

So, I’m playing some 3rd Strike, and all of the sudden, my JLF decides to quit registering “down.” Every other direction and button works. What could the problem be? I just installed this thing into my SE two days ago.


#2

Most like it’s either the switch in the JLF or the wiring for the down direction came loose or something.


#3

Were it a switch problem, how would I go about fixing it?


#4

since the switch is attached to the PCB, you may have to replace the whole thing, or it could just be the wiring harness.
They have them at lizardlick.com


#5

you coulb buy a new pcb, they aren’t very expensive compared to a full new jlf


#6

If you need a new pcb pm me Ive got a few…


#7

Yea, unfortunately you can’t just change one switch. You’ll have to change the whole PCB. LizardLick.com does sell just the switches with the PCB for about $15, but Lizard Lick is a 4 man operation and currently take 4-6 weeks just to ship things out. If you don’t wanna wait that long, you’ll have to buy a new stick from a faster site. If it’s just the wiring harness, you can get a new one for like $5.


#8

I really think that it is a loose wiring harness. Try wiggling the harness a bit and then taping it on tight. My guess that the pin for down on the joystick pcb is bent away from the metal contact. Also check your harness wire.

Akihabarashop will be open sometime this week they might be faster. You can order an individual switch from them I believe and desolder the faulty one and solder on the new one. Assuming of course the pcb is faulty.


#9

I’m 100% certain that it’s the wiring harness now. When playing Street Fighter today, it began refusing to register the “down” command again. I opened it up and I had to pull UP on the harness to get it to work correctly. The problem is – I have to HOLD it up for it to work properly. If I push it up, take my finger off of it, and then try to start playing again, it doesn’t work. If I had to hold it down on the other hand, I could tape it. I don’t know why it’s doing this. I haven’t heard of other people suffering the same woes as me. :confused:

Can anyone help me think up a solution? Do I need to replace the wiring harness entirely, and if so, does that require soldering? I’ve never soldered before, so… yeah.

I’d greatly appreciate any help.


#10

…anyone? I really need the help, here. I have a tournament to attend on Monday and I’d really like to resolve this issue before then. Sorry for the double post.


#11

if you have needle nose pliers, I would very very very CAREFULLY bend the pins, up or down what depending on what side with touch metal to metal better on the harness. coming of the Joystick pcb very slightly in the middle and towards the end of the pins. Less than a 5 degree bend in the middle The contact with the metal part will probably be better once pins are slightly bent.

Also replacing the harness doesn’t require soldering, it requires wire cutters crimpers, matching male and female quick disconnects. And a wire harness to hack.


#12

I’ve tried both your suggestion and hot gluing. Still will not register “down,” and it still comes off the prongs VERY easily.

I may just have to put the stock SE stick back in, as much as it pains me. I can’t get it to stay on properly and register “down” no matter what I do, unless I physically hold the tab.

Is there anything else I can do before I give up?

Also, is there a guide anywhere explaining how to replace the wiring harness? I’m probably going to end up having to buy one, aren’t I?


#13

The stock Mad Catz Wire Harness is not all cool with Sanwa JLF because it does not connect well.
There is no guide to replace the Wire Harness.
But I just told a guy before to splice new into old, and it worked super for him.

Stock Mad Catz Wire Harness has white connector on both ends.
You can solder new Wire Harness directly to Mad Catz PCB after removing connector if you want.

But you mention you not solder before.
So you can just add Quick Disconnect to end of new Wire Harness, and cut Mad Catz Wire Harness and crimp on respective Quick Disconnect for that.
Or use Butt Connectors, or Terminal Strip, whatever you want.


#14

How do I get the stock harness connector off? I really have no clue how to “splice” them.

I really wouldn’t begin to know how to do anything you just said. I’d honestly need a very detailed or visual guide to do it.

I was going to try switching the PCB from the stock MadCatz joystick with the JLF, but I found out the hard way that the switches are attatched to the PCB.


#15

I would order a new 5 pin connector and remove the molex connector and swap it out with the Madcatz one. Try that first because the Sanwa Molex connector has tighter holes for the wires to go through and has the small lip that clips onto the TP-MA so it doesn’t slip off. Here’s a pic of the connector I’m talking about. It’s the white part.


#16

It is actually a JST, not Molex.

For the Sanwa JLF-H, it is JST NH Series Connector.
The housing is 2.50mm Pitch, 5 Pin.

Part Number H5P-SHF-AA.


#17

Guys, I know which connector I need to get. My problem is that I don’t know how to get the old connector off, “splice,” or anything like that. I thought I made that pretty clear. I really need help in that area.


#18

screwdriver that you use to fix glasses with just pop the metal tabs in and the wire will come out


#19

I was correcting Tetsuosan.

I know your situation.
And that you don’t know what those terms mean.

http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm


#20

There aren’t any metal tabs in the piece I’m talking about… hell, I don’t see any tabs at all on it.

This is the piece I’m talking about:

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/7945/41054950.jpg

I need to know how to get it off so I can replace it with a new Sanwa harness.

Unless of course, someone has come up with an idea that will allow me to continue using the existing harness. :confused: