My JLF won't register the "down" command!

The stock Mad Catz Wire Harness is not all cool with Sanwa JLF because it does not connect well.
There is no guide to replace the Wire Harness.
But I just told a guy before to splice new into old, and it worked super for him.

Stock Mad Catz Wire Harness has white connector on both ends.
You can solder new Wire Harness directly to Mad Catz PCB after removing connector if you want.

But you mention you not solder before.
So you can just add Quick Disconnect to end of new Wire Harness, and cut Mad Catz Wire Harness and crimp on respective Quick Disconnect for that.
Or use Butt Connectors, or Terminal Strip, whatever you want.

How do I get the stock harness connector off? I really have no clue how to “splice” them.

I really wouldn’t begin to know how to do anything you just said. I’d honestly need a very detailed or visual guide to do it.

I was going to try switching the PCB from the stock MadCatz joystick with the JLF, but I found out the hard way that the switches are attatched to the PCB.

I would order a new 5 pin connector and remove the molex connector and swap it out with the Madcatz one. Try that first because the Sanwa Molex connector has tighter holes for the wires to go through and has the small lip that clips onto the TP-MA so it doesn’t slip off. Here’s a pic of the connector I’m talking about. It’s the white part.

It is actually a JST, not Molex.

For the Sanwa JLF-H, it is JST NH Series Connector.
The housing is 2.50mm Pitch, 5 Pin.

Part Number H5P-SHF-AA.

Guys, I know which connector I need to get. My problem is that I don’t know how to get the old connector off, “splice,” or anything like that. I thought I made that pretty clear. I really need help in that area.

screwdriver that you use to fix glasses with just pop the metal tabs in and the wire will come out

I was correcting Tetsuosan.

I know your situation.
And that you don’t know what those terms mean.

There aren’t any metal tabs in the piece I’m talking about… hell, I don’t see any tabs at all on it.

This is the piece I’m talking about:

I need to know how to get it off so I can replace it with a new Sanwa harness.

Unless of course, someone has come up with an idea that will allow me to continue using the existing harness. :confused:

You could also use a eurostyle terminal strip. You can find these at Radio shack.

get some tape you can write on and label the wires 1 through 5.
Cut the terminal strip with scissors to only having 5 pair terminals.
Cut the old harness. Some where in the middle. Probably closer to the connector being replaced so you have the most wire coming off the pcb to work with…
Then Just strip the insulation off the end of the wires with a hobby knife if you don’t have a wire stripper.
Then screw the wire ends in.
If your joystick isnt working proper, unscrew one side and screw them in the reverse order.

I still need to know how to remove the connector that I circled in the earlier pic, or I can’t do any of that. You’re saying “cut it,” but neglecting to mention where and how to cut it. You have to understand – I know NOTHING about the innards of electronics and/or circuitry. I wouldn’t know where to begin, or what half of that stuff means. I’m a visual learner. If that’s not an option, I need really, really specific directions so I can create a mental image of what I should be doing. I know this is a big inconvenience to people who operate differently and actually have experience with all of this jazz, I do… and I apologize. I’m getting a lot of “do this” and “this is how this works,” not “how to do this,” or “how you make it work” - germane to what I want to accomplish, of course.

A good example on the forum would be the guides on how to mod the SE and how to replace the art.

Again, I’m really sorry to inconvenience you guys. I can’t help that a lot of this stuff is going over my head. It’s a lot to process for such a small problem.

I’ve exhausted pretty much every option of getting the existing wiring harness to work. Hot glue, a kneaded eraser, electrical tape, slightly bending prongs… you name it. NOTHING works. The electrical tape worked for all of eight seconds before it began to fail. If anyone has any last ideas – please, hit me with them. If anyone has encountered this problem before – please, tell me how you solved it. I have to get this done by Monday. I’m begging ya’, SRK.

Tetsuosan saying to do this:

rtdzign saying to do this:

I mentioned this:

But these pictures will not help you.
Because you asked for how to do, not what to do.

Okay. Now it’s making more sense. By the way – thank you for going out of your way to make the pictures.

For Tetsuosan’s method - do the wires just “snap” back into the connector, or is soldering them into the new Sanwa JLF-H connector required?

For Rtdzign’s method - How are the wires “joined” by the terminal strip? Quick disconnects? If that’s the case, how do I go about setting up all of the quick disconnects so that power will flow through the wires?

For Jdm’s method - Same question applies about the quick disconnects.

The replacement wire harness already has the ends with exposed metal so no need to strip the ends of it. If the joystick has wrong directions then you screwed it in backwards order. This method you can get away without having to buy a $8 crimp tool. You just need a small screwdriver, scissors and a hobby knife.

With a terminal strip the two exposed wire ends and the screws that pinch down the exposed wire will bridge the connections. If you look inside the terminal strip it is all conductive metal. The screws hold the wires in as well as pushes the wires against the metal wall.

^When you say “screwed in,” what exactly do you mean? I’ve never used or even heard of a euro terminal strip before, so I wanted to get that one last thing cleared up.

Do the wires literally screw in by themselves, or do you need some sort of connector?

By the way, thank you for another good visual reference! I really appreciate you going through all of the trouble. I’m pretty even when it comes to right and left-brain thinking, but when it comes to things like this, the right half just dominates. Again – thank you.

That is better than mine.

You actually gave steps.
Of ten diagrams that I have made with MS Paint, I do not put steps, but people still knew what to do.

There is a screw in each of those terminals.
You just put the wire in, and screw the screw down.

The contacts should just clip back on.
No need to solder.

There are screws that hold the wires.
There is a metal bridge thing connecting each opposite side.

Quick Disconnect, you would have to crimp on each end of wire.
One for male, other for female for each respective connecting pair of wires.

Use a Crimper Tool, or just pliers.

That’s perfect. Thank you guys so much. You two have been a gigantic help. I’m 100% sure I can do this now.

Just to make sure…

On the JLF Harness…

Black = Ground
Green = Right
Yellow = Left
Orange = Up
Red = Down

Is that correct?

This picture shows the screws from a better angle. When you screw these down the wire gets pressed agains the metal wall inside. Basically the part you want to cut off should look exactly like this.

I forget, but black is always ground on the JLF harness. The orientation depends on the pcb facing direction, but as long as you label the wires 1-5, and keep the jlf wires in the same order as they appear on the white connector part then there are only two ways to try to get it right.

I could say you could look at the pcb traces to figure out what is ground/black, but then I just might have confused you.