My journey with a modded TE stick [56k Warning]

I went to Staples and bought their largest self healing cutting mat (not rotary),
a sturdy exacto knife with rubber grip for stability, a double sided removable scotch tape (I SWEAR BY THIS),
and 4x mini clamps (ended up useless thanks to the godlike tape).

This is the picture I’m going to use as my official representative.
It will be beloved yet feared by all.

Carefully line up the defect frame with the picture…
Oh god, I’m so nervous… Not really good with arts and crafts…

What’s important is the top right corner… You’ll see I botched it and cut too deep.
I thought taping it would be enough, but the blade still dipped inside the frame.
This one is ruined, but I have a second copy just in case. (Foresight FTW!)
Nevertheless, I practice cutting the buttons out just to gain experience.

This is the picture for the side frame.
After failing on the main frame, I decided to do this first to gain some more experience
since I only have one more copy of the picture I want to use…
If I fail on that, I’ll have to make the stick Gundam themed as originally planned.

My extra “swap out” artwork.
(What’s important is the extra side frame artwork. Print out multiple copies just in case!)

Somehow, I have cut it out with no problems.
Using the newbie mistakes I made with the first copy and the experience
built upon practicing difficult cuts with the failed copy, I have actually succeeded!

Alrighty, everything but the back frame’s artwork is cut. The back is the easiest;
Four easy screw holes await! I basically cut them in squares and triangles since I had no hole-puncher on me.

Hehe, now for the fun stuff~

The tournament edition stick in all its stock glory.

Using the Allen key (size 3), I removed the screws and popped the hood.
Surprisingly, sticks aren’t complicated at all.

We’ve got snap in buttons, and quick disconnects to take care of.

There’s a screw in the middle of the joystick mounting bracket.
If I hold it down, the ball top doesn’t rotate freely and is able to be removed.

Let me just quickly draw up a quick disconnects colour diagram so I know where they go…
I think these are actually different for everyone else.

Alrighty, these are rather difficult to take off for the first time. They’re dug in good.

Using my larger flathead as leverage, I used the smaller one to pry them out carefully.
DO NOT TUG ON THE WIRES! (As sturdy as they are, you still risk breaking them.)
I also have to disconnect the joystick (the plug on the bottom left).

Okay, took them all out, and disconnected the joystick.

F—ing hell! Removing them the first time is WAR. These buttons will resist you to the very end.
If you cherish your nails, be very careful at this point because I actually shaved off a
layer of the nail on my thumb while pushing these punk asses through the metal frame.
The frame can and will cut you.

At least now they’ll be easier to remove.
You gotta like squeeze one side of the button down while pushing that
side through the frame, and then repeat for the other side.

The stock artwork peels off easy since its held to the metal frame by a weak adhesive.
It left no mess at all!

I briefly take a moment of silence as I mourn those fallen in battle with the damned Nazi buttons.
(I regain my composure so I can focus on the task at hand. I don’t want to screw up at this point.)

I slip on my artwork (I opted for a paper print to reduce the overall gloss).

And then I overlay the artwork with the plexiglass frame…

Tada! The buttons hold the artwork in place and do a great job of it since they’re former Nazis.
They are now much more easier to negotiate with now that I’ve won the war.

Now to get to the side panel, I have to remove the bottom of the stick for easier access.
There’s two Nazi buttons there and quick disconnects and I can’t reach them otherwise.

This is the bottom of the inside frame.
You can’t do anything here except remove the frame completely by unscrewing the little screws.
What’s important is the red goop. It’s hardened and makes for a difficult time of
unscrewing unless you scrape it off (it comes off easily though).
Apparently not all models have it, but if you do, you’ll want to scrape it off with your flathead.

Close up of a red goop infested screw. For something like this, use something pointed to scrape it off.

More of the f-cking Zerg creep.
I will take care of the bottom metal frame after I finish installing the side frame and artwork.

You are now looking from the top of the stick.
By unscrewing it, I was able to remove the outer frame.

At this point, I realized I was cut from the war I waged with the communist buttons,
so I made a makeshift tourniquet with Bounty, The Quilted Quicker Picker-upper.
Works great on blood. What you are seeing are two more Nazi buttons and more quick disconnects.
I scribble on the mockup where each colour goes…

This one will be more challenging as you gotta angle the flathead to pry the quick disconnects off.
You also need to use a flathead to push the bottom side of the Nazi button down (right side in the picture).

I am holding the plexiglass side frame still in its plastic packaging.
Thank you Art Hong for your wonderful products!

After agonizing between an erotic half-dressed Noel Vermillion and the cast of BuruRaji…
I went with BuruRaji. God, I love Tomokazu Sugita for his portrayal of “what a pain in the ass” characters.

Again, the de-Nazified buttons now snugly hold the artwork and plexiglass frame in place.
Half dressed Noel is on the right side.

At this point, I realized I needed pliers to bypass the red goop on the bottom frame.
As I stood up to get them, I noticed it was 4am, so I went straight to bed.

After waking up, I robotically resumed my task by fetching the pliers.
I scraped off the red goop… And ended up removing the four hex bolts.
I also finished the thing before remembering to take pictures of the process.

So here’s the finished product in all it’s BlazBlue glory!

Click here to see the big picture of the stick.

I originally posted this on Dustloop first, but had to show SRK some love.

I’d like to thank the following for making this possible:

MarkMan for coming up with such a wonderful stick.
ShinJN of SRK for his EXTREMELY helpful videos.
ProtomanSTi for his amazing tutorial thread.
Art Hong for his masterful craftsmanship and products.
Dustloop and SRK for taking my game to the next level.

Thanks for following my journey~ OTL

yo you got dead links…

Yep, they’re all fixed now.

Good stuff.
You did not need to print with those lines shown.
They are only there for reference when designing, not for cutting.

I’m more interested in what is inside your Pokmon binder though.
If they cards, we’ll talk about that.