My Madcatz TE(PS3) to 360 Dual PCB

So… I decided to go on this journey and I finished in 2 days. I’m going to detail what I learned and step by step what I did.

#1. PLAN PLAN PLAN. I ended up with absolutely no mistakes (wiring wise) due to planning everything out before taking the plunge.

#2. Tools: Hex tool, philips screwdriver, solder, soldering iron, wire tape, 22-26 guage wires and a DPDT switch from radio shack etc… I ripped open a CAT5 cable and used all the different color wires inside.

#3. Write/draw out the colored wires corresponding to your TE stick (blue for square, etc.).

#4. Wire your common ground board. I used a late model madcatz I bought from amazon for cheap. Write down the colors of the wires corresponding to the 360 buttons. Cut the USB cable but leave enough wires exposed for soldering. I soldered XYAB,LT,RT,Guide,Start. I left out the back button because I didn’t want to solder on the PS3 TE PCB and instead wanted the “Select” button to act as the 360 guide. I positioned mine on the bottom of the stick’s box.

#5. Use this schematic

#6. The hardest part: solder lengthening wires onto the wires used for the 360 USB (2 grounds, one thick one thin and both black, 1 red 5V, one green D+, one green D-. Cut open the USB cable on the TE PS3 board and cut all the wires but leave enough length as shown in the pictures below.

-Solder the D+ and D- FROM THE ACTUAL USB (green and white) to the MIDDLE TWO of the DPDT switch

-Solder the D+ and D- FROM THE 360 USB (green and white) to the RIGHT TWO of the DPDT switch

-Solder the D+ and D- FROM TE PS3 Board (green and white) to the LEFT TWO of the DPDT switch
***See the RED circle in the picture

-Solder the two ground wires on the 360 board together and then Solder the new combined wire on the PS3 TE PCB marked “ground” (the bottom 2 are ground… ***See the YELLOW circle in the picture

-Solder the 5V wire from the 360 to the 5V on the PS3 TE PCB
***See the BLUE circle in the picture

Here’s another angle:

#7. Once #6 is finished, fasten the switch by drilling a hole in the wire storage compartment and bolting the switch in. Zip tie loose wires coming from the 360 board, the usb cable, and the PS3 PCB.

#8. Find a nice spot to mount your 360 board (you might want to find this first actually, since you want to design your wiring around the mounting spot). I bought double sided velcro from radio shack and mounted it on the bottom here:

#9. Use the “solderless” trick to tap your wires. What you do is yous trip a long portion to expose the wires then stick them into the quick disconnects/connectors, fold the wire upwards and then plug the wires back into their slots. You can see in this picture I tapped into the joystick’s connector and also tapped into the terminal. Use your previously charted diagram to check which wire goes where. The Terminal itself has the PS3 buttons marked clearly. TAP INTO THE TOP SET OF WIRES FOR THE BUTTONS. For the PS3 TE, the bottom set are grounds.

#10. Test buttons. I actually tested my connections on the 360 board first by connecting a 9V battery to the USB’s Red Wire and ground. Then I took each individual button and tested it with a multimeter against a known ground point on the board. Once all buttons work on both systems (by using the switch), clean up the wires with tape in the system.

#11. Do any art/custom work left. Here is my finished stick:

I got the art from the template thread. Printed at Kinkos… and had a lexan/polycarbonate clear top plate made at They are located very close to me and the guy is very knowledgeable and friendly. If you like to switch around custom art, I highly recommend this route as opposed to the lamilabel route. The bezel was painted with kragen-bought duplicolor vinyl spray by first wet sanding with 1000 grit and then spray painted 3 times (10 minutes inbetween). Hope this helps! Happy modding!

looks damn good… and by any chance are u in the bay area because im almost willing to pay for ur services…

edit: after further digging for more info i found that if ur located in or around milipitas(laser alliance) and im rly close to there… lemme know if u wanna do some work on my TE…

I love that drawing. Good job with the mod!

how does that top plate work? was it expensive?

Yes I’m located in the San Jose area… so if you really want, I can try to work something out. It’s not that difficult .

As for the laser cut lexan… basically you give him a CAD file (which he already has so if you want it you don’t need to dig around for the file). He then takes a thin piece of lexan and cuts the holes as described in the CAD file. When you mount, you take off the original SF4 TE art (it’s stuck on with double sided tape), print your own art, cut your own holes in the art with an exacto knife, and then place the lexan over it… put all the buttons/joystick back and then bolt them back in.

Others have been going to kinkos to print lamilabel art and then just sticking that in place of the original TE’s sticker but then everytime you change your art, you must rip it off and re-do a lamilabel. The lexan is just a shield so basically you can put any art under it.

I have to say, it’s not “perfect” but it’s pretty damn close. I still had to trim some of the holes to make sure it fit properly. You only have to do the trimming once though so that’s good.

ah yeah the total was $27 + change for the lexan top plate.

was it expensive? what did he use to get the dimensions?

$27 for the lexan… 1 dollar for the print. If you have exacto knife then you can get to work right away to make it fit. The layout is on a autoCAD file and already has a copy of it so you don’t need to worry about the holes. You can just call them and have them make you the exact same thing as mine.

how thick is it? how did he get the dimensions? i want to do it locally and shop around.

it’s a 1/32" polycarbonate. you need to find a laser cut place that also cuts polycarbonate. Some don’t because of fumes. Others don’t have it in house and requires you to buy from your own source, which is much more expensive because other sources only sell by large large sheets. The dimensions is in a CAD file somewhere in the huge Madcatz TE templaet thread. You’ll have to dig that one up yourself.

cool good info, i thought the te already has a plastic cover? do you just toss that?

it’s plastic yes but the art is etched onto the plastic. You need a clear one if you want to put your own art.

so everyone with custom art on the te’s are playing on top of the their laminated pictures? was that piece 27 shipped?

no, that was pickup price… so I’m not sure how much it is shipped. I am positive it has to do with where you are shipping to and what priority you are shipping at. But yes, majority of those on the template thread are using lamilabels from staples or kinkos and just rip out the stock art and stick on the new one.

only a few have used the lexan approach so far.

buy from arthong… inexpensive and TOP NOTCH quality!!!

Look him up here on the boards…

Will this process be the same as on the PS3 SE using a 360 PCB?

It should be the same for the SE stick, although I’m not sure how much room is in those things since I don’t actually own one. From pictures that I have seen, the boards in the SE look almost identical to the boards in the TE.

Awesome drawing!

Thanks can i get some clarification on anyone regarding the board for the SE being the same on the TE?

why would you have to solder to the ps3 pcb if you connected the xbox guide button? Just curious.

yea i had the above question too but I also am wondering what pcb you used from what controller. I see some gamestop controllers (made by madkatz) but am wondering if they will work well. I looked on amazon and only found wireless xbox controllers which I am guessing doesn’t work.