So… I decided to go on this journey and I finished in 2 days. I’m going to detail what I learned and step by step what I did.
#1. PLAN PLAN PLAN. I ended up with absolutely no mistakes (wiring wise) due to planning everything out before taking the plunge.
#2. Tools: Hex tool, philips screwdriver, solder, soldering iron, wire tape, 22-26 guage wires and a DPDT switch from radio shack etc… I ripped open a CAT5 cable and used all the different color wires inside.
#3. Write/draw out the colored wires corresponding to your TE stick (blue for square, etc.).
#4. Wire your common ground board. I used a late model madcatz I bought from amazon for cheap. Write down the colors of the wires corresponding to the 360 buttons. Cut the USB cable but leave enough wires exposed for soldering. I soldered XYAB,LT,RT,Guide,Start. I left out the back button because I didn’t want to solder on the PS3 TE PCB and instead wanted the “Select” button to act as the 360 guide. I positioned mine on the bottom of the stick’s box.
#5. Use this schematic http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=146124&page=6
#6. The hardest part: solder lengthening wires onto the wires used for the 360 USB (2 grounds, one thick one thin and both black, 1 red 5V, one green D+, one green D-. Cut open the USB cable on the TE PS3 board and cut all the wires but leave enough length as shown in the pictures below.
-Solder the D+ and D- FROM THE ACTUAL USB (green and white) to the MIDDLE TWO of the DPDT switch
-Solder the D+ and D- FROM THE 360 USB (green and white) to the RIGHT TWO of the DPDT switch
-Solder the D+ and D- FROM TE PS3 Board (green and white) to the LEFT TWO of the DPDT switch
***See the RED circle in the picture
-Solder the two ground wires on the 360 board together and then Solder the new combined wire on the PS3 TE PCB marked “ground” (the bottom 2 are ground… ***See the YELLOW circle in the picture
-Solder the 5V wire from the 360 to the 5V on the PS3 TE PCB
***See the BLUE circle in the picture
Here’s another angle:
#7. Once #6 is finished, fasten the switch by drilling a hole in the wire storage compartment and bolting the switch in. Zip tie loose wires coming from the 360 board, the usb cable, and the PS3 PCB.
#8. Find a nice spot to mount your 360 board (you might want to find this first actually, since you want to design your wiring around the mounting spot). I bought double sided velcro from radio shack and mounted it on the bottom here:
#9. Use the “solderless” trick to tap your wires. What you do is yous trip a long portion to expose the wires then stick them into the quick disconnects/connectors, fold the wire upwards and then plug the wires back into their slots. You can see in this picture I tapped into the joystick’s connector and also tapped into the terminal. Use your previously charted diagram to check which wire goes where. The Terminal itself has the PS3 buttons marked clearly. TAP INTO THE TOP SET OF WIRES FOR THE BUTTONS. For the PS3 TE, the bottom set are grounds.
#10. Test buttons. I actually tested my connections on the 360 board first by connecting a 9V battery to the USB’s Red Wire and ground. Then I took each individual button and tested it with a multimeter against a known ground point on the board. Once all buttons work on both systems (by using the switch), clean up the wires with tape in the system.
#11. Do any art/custom work left. Here is my finished stick:
I got the art from the template thread. Printed at Kinkos… and had a lexan/polycarbonate clear top plate made at www.laseralliance.com. They are located very close to me and the guy is very knowledgeable and friendly. If you like to switch around custom art, I highly recommend this route as opposed to the lamilabel route. The bezel was painted with kragen-bought duplicolor vinyl spray by first wet sanding with 1000 grit and then spray painted 3 times (10 minutes inbetween). Hope this helps! Happy modding!