Here is the first case I have built. I stained the wood, and haven’t yet placed a graphic or PCB in it yet. I just put the stick and the buttons in to see how it would fit. since I didn’t put the dust cover on, you can see that the hole for the stick is slightly off-center. however, I do have the full range of rotation, so it doesn’t seem to matter too much. the case will fit sanwa JLF and JLW sticks, and this one is drilled for 30mm sanwa buttons. I plan on making a about 10 or so more cases, just for the hell of it- Both Happ and Sanwa. Let me know what you think! For better viewing, right click on the image and select ‘view image’
Nice. How does the oversized balltop feel compared to a regular one? Looks cool though- the stain looks like it came out nice. It almost looks finished without a graphic :wgrin:
Very sharp. Are your Happ boxes going to be the same size? If so would you be willing to share your dimensions?
Thanks. About the Balltop, that size actually feels pretty nice to play with. I was kinda skeptical about it, it was a free gift from Himura though, and I wanted to use it. My happ style boxes will probably be only slightly taller, but I will have to wait to work on those, as I have yet to order the parts. Also, the start and select buttons are slightly recessed. I based the designs off of some cases I bought from Chainz, which were very nice, I may add. When I get the chance, I’ll try to post the dimensions.
Another thing, I secured the stick with bolts that are easily removable, but very secure, so that sticks will be easily replaced if need be.
I think that is a very nice attempt at a first stick and going with a stainable case for the first project is brave! It looks like a good size so the hands won’t feel cramped with a good angle.
It’s interesting how you bottom mounted the stick (From what you descibed, it seems like you used the flat mounting plate and bolts instead of just using the holes in the plastic base) I’m just curious as to how that affected the joystick height. For a JLF, it’s “standard” to have the shaft to be about 23mm which means you need to recess the base about 9mm (including the lexan). It looks pretty accurate from what I can tell. I’m just curious as to how thick the material is on the top panel. I’m more “concerned” about the sturdiness than I am about the stick height.
Some suggestions/tips for staining:
I would buy some wood conditioner to use on the box prior to staining (after sanding with at least 300 or 400 grit sandpaper). Although they usually say wood conditioner helps softwoods to take stain evenly, it also helps with hardwoods very well. Sanding is VERY important to an even coat so sand EVERYWHERE with the final grit. Even if an area looks as smooth as the others, go over it anyway because you will see it in the finished product and it’s a pain to have to sand all the stain off and redo it.
There are a few ways to apply stains (I prefer wiping) but no matter the method remember to wipe away all excess from the wood after you let it set for the desired amount of time (I wouldn’t do it more than 15 minutes). This also gives you more control on how much stain will be absorbed and allow you to see areas that are not even with the rest of the wood. This way when you play a second layer or stain you can focus on those areas and bring the whole piece to the same level.
My personal opinion that may not be shared by others. Endgrain is horrible when you stain. It absorbs the stain much faster and much deeper than the nice grain. This is for the obvious reason that thats how the tree took up water from the roots when it was once alive : ) I avoid end grain by mitering the corners. Since you’re working with boards that are all the same thickness and are making a rectangle, it would be very easy to do and makes the whole piece look better (again in my opinion). The most “difficult” part of doing mitering is when you join your pieces. It’s hard to get perfect 45 degree angles even if you use a chop saw and it’s also hard to glue the pieces together since you have to apply pressure differently and must make sure it comes out square.
But I must say, I’m very impressed. I’m not sure what tools you have access to, but it is a well done stick. Keep up the good work!
Most excellent. Keep up the good work.
This stick is actually a jlw, not a JLF.its a JLW with a big fat shaft, the ones that have flat sides near the top of the shaft. Bat tops are built for these (just take the jlf adapter screw out), these are the ones I use for that. I also put round Baolian restrictors on them, so they are kinda like happs in motion, but with sanwa responsiveness. I don’t have a measurement of the stick height, but it fits just like chainz cases did, and to me the height was perfect.
I’m printing this feedback you gave me out, so I can go over it with the guy teaching me all this stuff. (I’m not even sure what most of the tools are called, lol. I just learn how to use them) But seriously, thanks a bunch, its very helpful advice.
Here is a picture of one stick with a case I got from Chainz. I painted it and had it wired with a Dual Shock pcb, with a JLF stick and octagonal gate.
And just for the heck of it, here is a picture of the first mod I ever did, its a red octane case with sanwa JLM stick and happ competition buttons.
Very nice! It looks like it would be comfortable to play on as well. I don’t know how you’re going to play Beatmania with it though…
You know I can kick my girlfriends ass at Virtua fighter with the guitar hero controller- but I guess thats a whole different story, isnt it?
the huge balltop actually made it look like the shaft was too short. haha…i guess it’s mounted perfectly, then. good job with the case man.
**Final Cut **I saw your nice stained Sanwa stick you just made and it reminded me of the artwork you photoshopped for me earlier. The thing was I tried to get it done at Kinkos but the measurements weren’t exactly right and it didn’t come out the way I wanted. Therefore I was wondering if you could do a couple things.
I would like to know if you still have that artwork that you photoshopped for me on the computer. I’d like to know if you could print me an artwork that I could put into my stick and send it to me via mail.
I saw how you did a pretty good cut of plexiglass so I was wondering if you still had the measurements for the Red Octane stick and if so, if you could cut me a new piece of plexiglass to go on top of the artwork.
I’ll pay you via PayPal if you can do this for me. Thanks in advance. :tup:
I’ll send you a PM tonight. I still have the artwork. Sorry that it didn’t work, I think it may have gotten resized from hosting it on the web. I went by spiffyshoes’ measurements.
It’s got the required 7 buttons, doable, but not practical. Auto Scratch on of course.
I have made some more of these cases, I’ll be posting more pictures soon. If anyone is interested, I will probably post some finished sticks in the trade forum, along with some cases.
well man im not trying to talk down on your work
i know how hard building a custom is personally
but from the picture it looks like the plexi is off level on the upper left hand side (the upper side where the stick actually is)
i am having the same problem wit gettin mine perfectly level
maybe some experienced builders can give some tips on different design types to keep the top level.
and by the way i like that stain, i think it goes well with small sanwa’s
Yeah, the plexi is sitting on top of it, none of the stuff is actually screwed in, save the stick. the reason for the plexi sitting like that that is that the bolts weren’t counter synced. (they are now). Thats one thing if you are using bolts like me, you have to do that if you want the plastic to fit snug, the bolts or screws can’t be sticking out. I made some changes to the designs, so they all look a little different.