My new stick with internal project box system (99% done though)


#1

Hey folks,
I decided to post my new stick anyway,wanted to wait untill i finished the cover art but that’s gonna take some time and i’m impatient to know what you all think :clap:
So untill then i just used some poster i found from one of my old PC magazines :smiley:

General view

I made it with Sanwa parts,wanted enough room to rest my hands so it’s a bit big but very comfy and pretty flat anyhoo.
Painted it with a textured golden paint,it looks much better than on the pictures mind :slight_smile:

And i opted for an internal project box system,using DB25 ports to connect it all together.
The problem is that i had a hard time to find any project box flat enough to fit inside the stick,so i just used the rest of the MDF to make them :slight_smile:
Appart from the xbox one,they all fit inside completely.
Gamecube Hori digital pad pcb used
project box from a PC pad fitted in
Better view
xbox project box from the street fighter anniversary pad

You might have noticed a switch near the opening slot,it’s an on/off switch but i added a pin to make it on/on (too lazy to go buy a new one).

Basically that Nuby xbox controller is a pain in the ass,you need 2 ground connections for it separately.One to control the directions,start and back buttons and the other one for the rest of the buttons.

Push the switch down and the wiring goes in a daisy chain for one ground connection
Switching up interupts the daisy chain and separates into 2 ground connections with each covering the specefic buttons for the xbox pad.
Sounds a bit complicated(or i’m unable to explain it properly lol),but i’ll draw it on paint to show how it’s done.It was pretty challenging because i don’t have that much experience and i had to use just this one switch :smiley:

Here are some more pics of everything:
http://img349.imageshack.us/img349/4830/mdfcasetop8dw.jpg
http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/192/im0008471js.jpg
http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/2192/im0008697wx.jpg
http://img348.imageshack.us/img348/4153/im0008501wl.jpg

Let me know what you think and any suggestions to improve my work is always more than welcome :karate:

Edit: here is the diagram on how the ground wires are connected for that stupid nuby xbob controller lol :smiley:
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8883/sanwastickgroundlayoutexpl1nd.jpg


#2

Very well done. The only criticism that I have would be to make a more elegant method of removing the PCB’s. The dowels on the internal project boxes might look better with some thin metal handles. Like these

http://www.hapworth.co.uk/images/handles.jpg

Otherwise great work. Keep it up. :tup:


#3

bhytre
Holy crap that is a nice stick! I would use a db15 or 25 but my customers won`t let me :confused: (it is cheaper for them to buy an adapter). That pic on the stick is very nice and the box is painted as beachsand? Looks nice!


#4

@ quicksilver3007: I thought about using those kind of metal door handles,but i didn’t in the end because i made the project boxes to fit inside,so i don’t want too much to stick out :clap:

@ therealneogeo,thanks :smiley:
I used DB25 ports because they are longer, so the project boxes stay firmly in place even when i pull the cord a little bit.
And the pictures really don’t do justice to the paint job,it has a metallic black base under the textured gold color so when moving in light you see little black sparkles :slight_smile:
Now i just need to finish the art and i’m set ^^


#5

Fantastic idea, mate! It’s a pretty big stick, but whatever rocks your balls.

Hella messy wiring to show off through lexan. Really like that you managed to pull it off, even fit an Xbox pcb in there with a headset attachment! Even if it juts out a little, it certainly is passable.

First modular stick! Congrats! Now that you’ve paved the way I hope to see more of these.


#6

Thanks landel,i’ll do something about the messy wiring,i don’t like it either the way it’s now :smiley:
As for my next stick,it will be smaller and very special,tranformers style and that’s all i’ll say about it :clap:

Didn’t get many replies though,quess you have to be more popular around here :stuck_out_tongue:


#7

Everyone was at evo :slight_smile:
The Lexan window is pretty cool looking. Shin Ace swears up and down there you should be able to use a single common ground for any pcb, and with one exception for a crappy USB gamepad, he’s been right. From what I remember of his description, use a multimeter to check the resistance between the ground point of the pad contact, and the ground on the cable where it plugs into the console. Find a resister or same or similar rating and put it between the signal pad on the pcb and the DB connector. I haven’t played with the Nuby gamepad, so I can’t say for certain if it will work, only that it should. You also may want to try the MadCatz Microcon controller. I’ve used it a couple of times to very good results in a project box setup. The triggers are easily removed, and one of the potentiometers on the triggers is attached with a ribbon cable, so is very easy to move and mount the pcb flat. The other potentiometer I desoldered, and reattached with a small ribbon cable, so I could move them both out of the way for a flush mount. It uses a common ground and is not difficult to work with at all. You can remove the little riser peice for the D-pad, and solder onto the ribbon cable points underneath (you’ll see what I mean if you open one up.)

Umm, its been done before.


#8

Nope, my Mad Catz DC pad had 3 different grounds, unless I fail at using a multimeter.


#9

it looks pretty good so far


#10

My DC madcatz I used in my stick definitely uses only a single ground.


#11

ThankX

Thanks bro for the reply. Still got a question on the DB25. U soldered to the pins. Did u also solder it to the actuall db25 casing or did u just slid the pins through the holes and didnt solder it in place. THis maybe a dumb question but i havent read about any peoples doin this. Mad props on the finish product [COLOR=DeepSkyBlue]


#12

Hey no prob.
I just soldered them to the pins and not on the metal casing,the pins are half open so it’s easy to slide the wires in when you heat up the solder on them(you have to melt some solder on the pins first and make it really easy this way)
I found this picture on the net,it think it shows pretty clearly where to solder the wires :slight_smile: