My stick won't respond to the left


#1

After much waiting and saving and distraction I finally got all my Sanwa buttons and stick into my Hori Fight Stick Three… and now I’m missing all of my quarter circle back area. Is there any way to fix the stick, or should I try and send it back?

I’m also half thinking of taking up this Mad Catz sale and calling it a day… any thoughts?


#2

Well you put the stick in it, recheck you seemed to do something wrong


#3

I belive it is making all of the connections… I must confess that I had someone with soldering experience do the work. I opened the back and saw that it was making all of the connections to the sensors (you might have a different word for those, I’m quite new to this). If there is something else I should look for please guide me. I would love to be playing with this stick ASAP.


#4

The wires are soldered onto the microswitches (is what they’re called). I’d talk to the guy who did the job and ask if he can do a continuity test from the input wire to the PCB or other connections, since Hori Sticks are notorious for using non common ground PCBs… Probably isn’t a problem in the soldering, but may be a problem in the microswitch. When the microswitch is active, there should be continuity between the two points of the microswitches. If this isn’t the case, then therein lies a problem with the microswitch.

This may not make sense to you, but I’m sure a soldering expert will know, just let him know this, and it should pan out. Or maybe the wizard that jdm is will come to this thread and offer better knowledge. It’s usually inevitable ;D


#5

The PCB in HORI Fighting Stick 3 actually is Common Ground.
Laugh.

I’ve no knowledge to offer.
No one may see the Wizard.

I would like more information though thattherebear.
Your Title says Left no respond, but you say all of Quarter Circle Back.

What about Quarter Circle Back from the top?
I’m just being crazy.
Laugh.

But your Post has nothing for me to work on.

I’d like to see how the Sanwa Joystick was installed.
Hoping the wiring is not mess, as I will not be able to trace to the PCB.

Do what Nerrage said; continuity test.
Laugh.


#6

Hori needs to get their act together and stop making so many PCBs to memorize.

And score one for Nerrage!
(Score jdm?OVER 9000)


#7

Thanks for all of the response guys. I know I didn’t give a lot of info, I just don’t know enough to help you help me.

Up and down work, but left and the diagonals do not. I’m willing to “man up” and try to fix this myself (as the guy who helped me put it all together lives a city over and I’m antsy). I’ll ask him to come here so he can try to fill you guys in.

I’m at work right now, but I can take a stab at trying to work on it tonight. Any tools I should pick up on my way home?


#8

If you want to check for continuity, you’ll need a multimeter, preferably with a beeping continuity tester function (It beeps whenever the two points that you place the probes at have little or no resistance.). If it doesn’t have this function (as it is pretty much standard on digital multimeters, but they tend to be a bit more expensive), you can set it to any resistance test, and the needle will tip to the maximum resistance. Then, touch the probes together until the needle dips to the lowest point. Whenever it dips to the lowest point in the circuit, it means that there is little to no resistance between two points. The advantage of the beeping continuity meter is that you don’t have to look at it, it will beep when there’s continuity, but these multimeters can run a bit more expensive. Worth it if you plan on using it a lot, but for one project, you can buy whatever works.

Basically, now that you know how to check continuity, you’ll need to find the microswitch soldered to the left input (it will be the switch that is on the right side, because when the top of the joystick tilts left, the base of it shifts right, if this doesn’t make sense, tilt it to the left, hold it at left, and then flip the case over to see which microswitch is being pushed down). When it’s active, there should be little or no resistance, meaning there should be continuity between the two metal points that come from the switch. Also, when probing for resistance or continuity, the red (+V/? max) or the black (COM) probes don’t matter. While it’s active, if there’s no continuity the microswitch is broken. If not, then check for continuity between the wire that connects the microswitch to the PCB at both points to see what the problem is.

EDIT: When you say the diagonals don’t work, does that mean Right-up and Right-down don’t work either? Is right working a-okay?


#9

Your Right doesn’t work either?


#10

It seems the my right works. Some of the connections must be crossed, because when I go down left it responds as though I clicked X.

Is there a illustration on this site as to where all of the wire’s should be going? If not, how do I tell?


#11

slagcoin.com is great, check the PCB that you’re using at Joystick Controller - PCB and Wiring. Scroll down to the PCB diagrams, and find your specific model PCB. One wire on each button should be connected to the common ground wire (this will probably be daisy chained or they will all meet at a barrier strip, but it can be soldered to any of the points labeled ground in the diagrams), the other wire should be soldered to the “signal” point on the diagrams for each button. (Just realized your PCB isn’t on the list, my bad >_>)

As for the joystick, the top microswitch will be down, the left switch will be right, and so on. Like the buttons, one should be touching a ground wire (via barrier strip, or connected to ground points, or through daisy chain?is most likely)

Also, if it’s accidentally hitting X, you probably have a short circuit somewhere. This can also be determined by a continuity test. Or the easiest fix is to put hot glue over anywhere that metal is exposed, this will ensure wires wont touch. Or if you see some solder melted across terminals, it can cause a problem that can’t be fixed by hot glue.

You could always look at the points that the wires are soldered to. Sometimes, there will at least be some sort of markings, but I don’t have a picture or a diagram of the Hori stick’s PCB >_>.


#12

Ok, that will be enough to get me started. Me and a different friend who also has a clue are going to work on it tonight. I’ll let ya’ll know how it goes.

Thanks again for all of the help.