My LT and RT buttons stopped working on my TE stick. The weird thing is, I can switch turbo on and off for the LT and RT buttons. However, they don’t work with turbo on or off.
A few things to check that should hopefully help you identify where the problem is with the registering of your two buttons.
Obviously, make sure that the buttons are correctly mapped ingame.
Open the TE up and make sure the quick disconnects were securely inserted on the tabs of the microswitches for the two buttons. If not, make sure they are on and test the button again.
If they were secure, remove the quick disconnects and short the connections by putting the two quick disconnect ends together. Do this for each button. Does it simulate a button press?
Make sure the quick disconnects are securely inserted on the terminal block. Short the other ends of the quick disconnect as in step 3 to test.
Remove the quick disconnects from the terminal block and, using a paperclip, short the two metal ends for ground and the button for both LT and RT. The grounds are common and “I think” were the top row of tabs on the terminal block, although I could be mistaken on this one.
Take off the ribbon connector on the PCB that corresponds to LT and RT. You will also want to take off the ribbon connector that is connected to ground if that is a separate connector. The connector pins are all labeled with what each pin does if you kind of read under the header on the PCB.
Take a paperclip and short the connection, by touching one end of the paper clip to LT and the other to ground. Do the same for RT. Does this simulate a connection in game and press the button?
Hopefully you don’t have to read down this far in the steps because, if so, there may be a problem with the PCB and the registering of your LT and RT. I would suggest calling MadCatz at this point and see what they can do for you.
It would be nice if everyone who’s had this problem could report it in a common forum. It seems pretty common recently. I’ve had it happen as well.
Thanks for all the advice – just be aware OP that following it will void your warranty unless a Madcatz tech has given you approval to open your case.
I think i have the opposite problem. At first i thought a button was not registering, but it turns out the button is registering as constantly on.
Using a paperclip i discovered that i can trigger the other inputs off of the broken input, as if it was a ground. Now i know nothing about electronics, but does this mean the polarity has reversed ?
Anyone know what has happened here or how to deal with it ?
Thanks for the help. I couldn’t get the buttons to respond though. I’m going to have to send it back to Madcatz. :annoy:
Referring to my previous post, i have just scraped back the protective film on the circuit strip to the faulty button and tried to trigger it from there, but no joy.
However, all the input metal strips lead to a ribbon connector (incorrect name maybe), from there using a paperclip i’ve found that the broken input is still triggering, but after connecting it to a button from that point, i’ve found that it triggers when you release the button, not press it.
Is there a remedy for this or has this Mayflash pcb taught me a good lesson about buying goods made in China ?