Take a picture of the PCB and post it online… I can’t help you, but maybe somebody else can.
IF it’s just a signal line (gray line) failure, it might be worth experimenting with soldering in a replacement line and retesting it again. Sometimes a “PCB” failure is actually failure of another component like a stranded wire connection.
Could also be something’s off with the joystick. Perhaps a part is worn out or not “hitting correctly.” Since you appear to believe it’s not the microswitch itself, could it be the actuator…? I’m leaning more towards an electrical/signal line failure rather than a full-blown PCB failure. I think those are fairly rare unless you’re talking about a Mad Catz PCB… :bgrin:
Other than that, it looks like it might be time for a new PCB…?
Are the buttons contact buttons (hit the PCB to register inputs) or are they soldered to the PCB board? You could recycle the PCB as much as possible (to preserve the original buttons if they’re soldered), but you still might be looking at getting a new PCB anyway. (I don’t know if Sanwa or Seimitsu PS-14D microswitches are compatible with the Hori Namco buttons…) Your options are the PS360 (when it becomes available again) for dual compability, a Cthulu if you only desire PC/PS3 compatibility or a MC Cthulu for multi-console. The third option will probably involve drilling and setting a position to install an RJ-45 if you want the most available options for consoles.
The MC Cthulu will keep backwards compatibility but will require the RJ-45 passthrough jack or some other connector (some people use DB-15 and project boxes) for PS2/PS1 support. The other two PCBs are strictly current generation PCBs.
Don’t know how often this PCB replacement’s been done but there are threads about the Namco joystick and I’m sure some guides to fixing a “busted” stick. Not that hard… It’s just that the tight space means creative rearrangement or getting tiny replacement PCB’s like the Cthulu line.