Need a diagnosis

  • RT(HK) and LT(3K) sometimes crap out in the middle of a round; workaround is replugging controller.
  • The 360 doesn’t detect the stick even though the stick’s power light is on; workaround sometimes requires 2 or 3 replugs to get it officially detected. This is also intermittent and happens during gameplay.
  • Controller can sometimes be stock on down. No buttons break it out of this trance. Fix is re-plug.
  • Possible relevant fact; I opened the stick up about two weeks ago to re-solder a bad power connection. Symptoms started a few days afterward.
  • Possible relevant fact; symptoms cannot be replicated manually … so far.

This is for a ChImp dual-modded Round 2 TE. The rest of the stick is stock.

Sorry if this is a popular problem, but I wouldn’t even know what to search for. Thanks!


I’m gonna go with VERY relevant fact. Check that same wire again.

As for the HK button, well… it’s a TE. Go figure.

I’m also going to bet that LT is constantly on when plugged into a PC?

  1. Known problem with 360 TE boards; thats why it never happens on PS3/PC. No fix, only workarounds to use different buttons, or replace the 360 board.
  2. During gameplay? If it happens during gameplay, then something in the four USB based wires (D+, D-, VCC, GND) is getting loose or shorting. Could be either in the USB->Chimp section or Chimp->TE pcb section. Autodetection problems once it works reliably (either by reconnecting until it properly detects, or plugging in with the three button 360 combo) can be solved and fixed, but there’s no point in going down that road until it works reliably.
  3. A few voltage readings when this occurs could answer that one, but I’d save it until you got the gameplay reliable. For future reference, when the down problem is happening and still plugged in, take voltage reading at the Down screw terminal point and on the Down signal on the 360 pcb.
  4. Something easily could have gotten knocked loose, or moved exposed wire around to a bad spot.