Anyone within the US who can take my job? (don’t want to deal with customs or Engrish)
I’ll be short and sweet, most of the details are posted on my website 56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm from there you can see what is already done and what needs to be done.
Because DB5 can’t do 8 action buttons and be full the next size up (DB25) should be good. Since when I originally posted it, I found a few things elsewhere to play games from the dreamcast to today using a Playstation 2 controller, and can get similar stuff to play back to the NES and 7800, (and assuming Genesis 6 converter from ToToTek can do 3 button Genesis and Master System, that too).
I also got an Undamned PS3-> Terminal Block adapter. So therefore, there ae 2 separate projects, which are intertwined.
I assume it’s easier to wire an electrical wire to a PCB that automatically converts sidle poresses into unique code for that system, than it is to compute conversions and build a custom chip for such a low order as 1 unit a piece.
The first necessary [piece is a Playstation 2 Dual Shock 2. That way I can output to the many systems a PS2 can be converted to. But there ae some systems adapters are just no made for. Therefore I need someone to wire a DB25 to the following controllers: 3DO (I would buy a Tototek except it does to have Daisy Chaining) , jaguar, 5200, CV standard, CV Super Action, (5 games I have require one, 2 the other) Intellivision. and Astrocade ( I assume 2600 will work with ANY of these: CV, SMS, Gen, 7800 as a default single button joystick)
The second thing I need done is a DB25 wired to both ends of the joystick, one would be the designated right-hand play, and the other would eb the standard left-hand play. Luckily my joystick is invertible by rotating 180 degrees. The other thing is a different previous guy did’t know where a certain piece went. it looks like a thick ring that first on the bottom of the joystick shaft. Currently, the stick, by feel, has clunky corners, and hopefully adding the ring will stop that. And as far a Y-ing the individual wires for a DB25, the only way it should be electrically affected is if I complete the circuit on both the left-and right-hand side. So make sure you unplug one before you plug in the other.
The last thing I need is 2 DB25->DB25 adapters.
One that can reroute the joystick to either the DP or LS or RS. I understand I lose subtlety in movement when I do this. This is mainly for a few games that don’t take the Dpad as the default input but are games that are obviously digital, the most notorious example I can think of is Metal Slug Anthology for the Wii. And the most obvious SYSTEM category is the Atari 5200, (except for a few analog games, in which case I’ll just use a real 5200 controller). All my converters understand analog pads, so I would need the PS2 LS and RS analog direciotns to be wired digitally, and would cover every system with analog controllers excerpt for the 5200.
The other thing it can do is button reassignments. If it costs just as much lair to do RCAs as it does 3.5mm holes, and their performance issues are the same, (I’ve had trouble with KY Enterprises 3.5 mm controllers.) I prefer RCA, because RCAs are easier to find working at Thrift Stores compared to 3.5mm wires, and in case a cat decides to chew a wire, I want the part to be replaceable that is exposed to the cats’ teeth and paws. It would be a lot cheaper for me, and easier for all of us if the fix was getting a new RCA cable. It should be organized to loo like a 2D representation of the fight stick and a stereotypical joypad. The reason why I feel this helpful is becase I can think of 5 games that this feature cones in handy right off the bat, and I’m not delving into my collection deep. Tuthankam, Pac-Land and Side Arms would have left fire and right fire swapped (or left walk and right walk) if the traditional “index-to-index” right hand remapping is used. (which works more often than “left-to-left”. There are WAY more than 5 games that would benefit by having your rapid fire button on your index and a secondary button on your middle.) The Activision Decathlon for the Colecovision may or may not benefit from having SOCD be independent buttons, just like the Atari Track N Field controller, and Defender for Atari 5200 might have a keypad press for hyperspace and/or smart bomb.
The last thing I need is some sort of joystick holder for Atari 5200, Intellivision, CV Standard, CV Super Acton, and Jaguar games so I an access the keypad in some games where a controller moving around loose is a bad idea, which would go go to the outside of the buttons,but be reversible, and one more basket to hold my Total control 3 VMU display on my Deamcast for both my Street Fighter anniversary Stick and my custom fight stick. which would go in back of the joystick, but that depends on direction. If were finagling for dollars or hours, this is the thing I’m willing to drop most.
Also VivoVicko didn’t work out for me because he wanted simple directions, and my project is too complex to be mentioned in a 1000 word or less email. Not saying he’s bad, just saying if your joystick project is as complex as mine, count him out, and he’d probably admit that on his own if he ever sees this. And he does no phone calls, and that’s something which a project like mine look too complicated. He needs emails to keep records of the deal, to find what’s his fault and what’s mine if the deal didn’t work as expected. And I need phone calls to make sure he fully understands what I’m asking, low ping time between question and answer on the phone compared to email. There was too much to manage with him. If it can’t be described in a 500 word email, he probably won’t take it. Fair warning. I’m just fairly shooing away customers with jobs like mine, which VivoVicko wouldn’t take anyway.
By the way I’m in talks with an Ebay joystick maker named “Boss Level Controls” aka Jeff Beck. He mostly does 2600 fight-style sticks. He said he can do everything expect the PS2 analogs,(and I assume) the 5200, and maybe (for the reason that each of 16 directions have a separate actuator, and diagonals are not a combination of cardinals) the Intellivision. If we do make the agreement, there is room for someone else to do these 3 PCBs. (just the analog portions.)
One final question, if you using a pad-hack method for Atari 5200 games that don’t need analog controls, is getting Best Electronics’s 5200 Gold Mod for the pad-hacked joystick essential, a waste of money or somewhere in between? It’s essential for longevity’s sake for a fully working unaltered 5200 stick, I just don’t know for the pad hack. He’s trying to sell that to me on the pad hack. Does he even know what I’m trying to do? Looking for professional modded answers to this.