Why would you need RCA connectors? Arcade buttons already comes with a User accessible quick disconnects
And the Crimp on Quick disconnects are even found in most hardware stores and autoparts stores. I buy a 10 for a dollar online.
Mainly because if a cat chews an external RCA wire, RCA cables are no fuss, no muss, and easy to find and replace. Plus they’re thick enough where my cats would probably not want to chew them in the first place. Other things require more knowledge like building your own wires and detaching and reattaching and soldering and a whole bunch of stuff I don’t want to deal with. The labor is easier with RCAs, just get RCA cable, plug in one end, plug in the other, and you’re done. Remember this is for frequent unplugging and replugging. Quick connects I’ve had died out and broke before. I can find 3 RCA cable sets for 50 cents at Goodwill. I’ve never had an RCA connector break or fail. Every time I had an RCA cable fail was because of the routed them wrong, not because the cable failed.
Also I need them organized in such a way so the hole is evident of what function. I’m thinking of mounting RCA females in an arrangement that looks like a joypad and my stick so it doesn’t become a Cable Spaghetti Mess where labels would fall off and make the plugs indistinguishable and therefore risk hooking the ground in the wrong place.
My website now has all the links up. visit 56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm to read about my job. I tested all the links and they work. By the way, my previous link to the above website didn’t link right. I tested this link. This one does. Same terms as above.
But those wires are Internal by default. None of that wiring external and it does not need to be external.
Your over complicating and making a project more expensive than it needs to be.
Buy having external RCA cables for button rewiring, you are looking at additional points of failure
I also read your site, where you even get your info from? That is all wrong.
Hello Darksakul: (I almost called you Dark Saul, being a play off Darth Maul )
About the ambidextrous wish list: It is just that, a WISH list, meaning if Fairly Oddparents exist, that’s what I’d wish for. I understand there are more practical concerns. I agree that having RCA females make more points of possible failure. I had a reason why I prefer external parts. I don’t want to tamper with a good setup. And I forsee the need of having a “base setup” and a “flexable setup” for some things I see in the future and past. 2 games I can think of where I need hardware-based reprogrammability are Tutankham (with a left fire and right fire) and Pac-Land (with a left run and right run) Hopefully you can appreciate the problem with a one-size-fits-all-games solution. And if something goes wrong with this solution, only games that need this solution would be hampered, and not every game. I’m trying to isolate the problem, so I can still game, just not those 2 games. And I’ve had problems working with little wires in a spaghetti, kabelsalat mess with wire labels that fall off too easily. I thought externalizing it makes it more “user-friendly”, and the RCAs make it more “user-serviceable”
What specifically was wrong? Was it on my joystick page specifically, or on the 56ok reviews? Is it a difference of opinion, not understanding the perspective of the website, or an actual factual statement I made wrong? Most of the website are my personal experiences, both from a low bandwidth gaming perspective, and a “pre-1985 right-handed” one. These are my personal experiences. I only have authority to speak for one person, me. Your mileage may vary.
By the way, I understand $300 is a lot to have in reserve for a deposit on a joystick. You sound like you’re an expert. I found your user id at the beginning under this joystick makers thread . I understand it just doesn’t just cover the parts, and labor, but the knowledge as well. There are some things I want that I know how to do it, I’m just not handy with a soldering gun and just need a proverbial driver on the road to my joystick, some things I want to get, but need a guide because I don’t know the way, (like some previous pitfalls I’ve just climbed out of and don’t want to fall into again.) and some things which is on a proverbial wish list, way too expensive to be practical. I need an expert to help me sort through this. If an up-to-$300 deposit, for a joystick that is already over 50% made and just needs some final work, sounds like a good amount, I could use advice like yours.
If you want to deal with me, just let me know and maybe we can work something out. If you want a low ping conversation, private message me your phone number, and I promise I won’t give it out to anyone, or let me private message you my phone number, whichever you prefer. I’ve got unlimited US and Canada long distance.
I can predict one thing you might say I got factually wrong. The claim that I said the Nintendo d-pad was originally supposed to be right handed:
If the original intent wasn’t a right handed d-pad when why does this picture exist? https://google.com/patents/US4687200 Click on image 1 and you’ll see a right-handed d-pad confirming my theory, that the only reason why they went left handed was because of Donkey Kong and future arcade hits, and the only reason Donkey Kong was that way was because the arcade cabinets from Donkey Kong were re-converted Radarscope machines, and back then, people thought, if you can only choose one, pick the most important control to be right handed. If firing was more important than dodging in Radarscope, then the fire should be more important, hence on the right, hence left stick. It miht have been a cost saving move to put Donkey Kong’s stick on the left, more than it was an ergonomic one.
Hey Darksakul, are you there? Do you want to discuss possibly doing my joystick?
I going to respectfully pass this one up
Darksakul, I understand I may have to find someone I mesh with. Since you see no reason to have an external button swapper, I can’t convince you of it, as much as I tried lightly on the forum. Luckily I found one person, who I just have to wait until he has some free time, another where who initially liked the idea, but I couldn’t get a hold of, and one you has a phone number for custom work, but never answers their phone. I’ll just see which one is most eager.
As for the one who left me, he knowingly combined items, and I said I wanted a modular design so that if one part fails, ONLY stuff related to that part won’t work, but I can enjoy the rest of the stuff while it’s being repaired. The whole point of the external button swapper was so that if it failed, only a few limited gamesthat required a radical change in button arrangement and didn’t have software adjustments, wouldn’t work, butt e main multi-console PCB WOULD work without it. The joystick would in base mode work for all Capcom games and any games with button remapping. The point of hard-wiring a removable external button changer was to change the buttons in a game where there was no option, but to let most games with button remapping options not be affected. And just as importantly is to not to mess up a good joystick unnecessarily. I’ve had a joyustick where I had to fiddle with internal parts. it was not a pretty thing. I didn’t wanted so integrated in the system where if that failed, I’d have to send in my whole PS360+ because they are siamese twins fused to the same unit. He didn’t believe I was willing to pay, but I had $300 deposit for him. That was the breaking point. I accused him of over-engineering because (from what I perceive) stuff that could have just as easily been separated were integrated with no additional benefit except “controlling 2 consoles at once.” Why in the world would anyone, except for someone testing how literal of a translation an older game is remade for a newer system, want to control 2 systems at once? I can think of no practical uses, even if I stretch, except the one I mentioned…
I’m not going to call him out by name. He knows my user name of tripletopper. If he reads this, I’m just showing him where I thought he tried to make a power play. I never asked for 2 consoles to be controlled at once. The closest I’ve come to that was theorizing about a “move recorder/playback unit” to test whether a particular video game is legally a skill game within Ohio if I did video game tournaments, but that was a long way off. That was a feature he added that he thought I’d be willing to pay for, but actually wasn’t. In fairness I did mention it, but said that would be for a business expense, not for my joystick. By the way, I found him on Etsy.com So if you ok for a joystick builder on etsy.com, the only one I know who responds to it did this thing, and made the ultimatum that I a) accept his changes and not ask questions, b) do it my way and have no warrantee, or c) not do business with him. it was tough between a and c, but in retrospect, now that I think of it, if he wasn’t willing to see that flaw, then I don’t know if I can work with him.
Actually for me the Holidays are a busy time for me both in personal life and work, so I don’t have much me time.
And no one here (at least I know off) do stick modding as their full time job.
Second, what you are asking with RCA cables calls for is alot of drilling and cutting. Which is never a straight forwards process.
What you are asking for and to look decent takes alot of time, effort and shopping for the exact right panel mount parts. I can do it quick, fast and cheap but its going to look terrible.
I don’t want to deal with that at this time.
Does anyone do like Multi Console Joystick?
Like a Joystick for the SNES/Genesis/PS2/PS3/PS4/Switch in One
I’m looking to commission artwork for a Mayflash F500, can anyone help?
I just need face plate art, I found a thread with a guy named “ruckage” who offers the service. PM’d him but I don’t think he’s a regular here.
I live in California and can pay via Paypal.
Hello need a Modder in the Lynnwood or Seattle, WA area just picked up a new madcatz t2+ and it’s broken, physically everything is new and looks good however when plugged into ps3, PS4 or pc it’s always scrolling up, even when not touching the stick, scrolls up in menus, scrolls up in character select, and in game just makes the character jump, help is very much appreciated
Thank you to ausomecrawl, he helped troubleshoot and recommend fix for my TE2+, it was bad diode, and was very patient with my questions and helped me out a lot.
Hi, All I’m looking for a modder in DFW are please pm me. Thanks
Hey if you can, take me off the available modder list
I no longer have the time to offer anyone else any mods.
Hello! I’m looking for a modder in the Los Angeles area. I think I have all the parts, so would just need a quick swap-job. I should note that I’m happy to pay for the service. Details below.
What I Have:
I have a first-edition 2009 MadCatz TE FightStick, dual-modded (back in 2011) with a PS360 mod so it seamlessly works on PC, PS3, X360.
What I Want:
I just purchased a Brook Universal Fighting Board, and would like to swap it in and “upgrade” my stick to work on all the consoles instead of just last-gen ones. I’m looking for someone to cleanly install this Universal Fighting Board, and maybe suggest/perform additional steps for ease-of-use/quality-of-life friendliness to my beloved fightstick.
Please let me know if there’s anyone in Los Angeles who’s willing to help me out! I’m happy to drive the thing to your house, meet you at some community event, etc. Happy to work with references, too (if, for example, someone here isn’t “the guy” but “knows a guy”, I’m happy to hear you out!) Thank you for your consideration.
Have you tried contacting RoyalFlushTZ?