Need advice on modding a stick


#1

Hi, I’m new to this site and this kind of stuff.
I recently brought a cheap stick (in a very tight budget) to try out on fighting games at my PS3.
It’s a very bad stick, the respond and feedback from it is just horrible so I’ve decided on trying to mod it.( I don’t want to waste the case since it’s still usable. I think)
I want to replace them with Sanwa parts but I have no clue what to do on this big thing.

I have try to find any clues and to see if anything has modded this stick before but I guess luck is not always on the right side.

This is the Fighter stick model I brought, I can’t find my box so I just search it somewhere on the net.

The name of the stick is called : Fighter 4 Stick. I don’t remember it’s from what company since the stick itself doesn’t list any, and it’s made from china.

I’ll show how the interior looks like.

The diameter for the button’s hole is about 28mm.

The joystick itself has a 4-way square restrictor plate.

I’ve also noticed the wiring is somehow sticked to the board and also the joystick, So I guess if I want to mod this it will require a lot work.


#2

Do you have any experience with soldering or using a multimeter? If so, you could use the existing circuit board. Otherwise, your easiest/cheapest route would be to buy a zero delay ps2/ps3/pc encoder from eBay.

The stick looks like a JLF knock off, so most likely one of those would fit properly. If the buttons are 30mm, Sanwa or Seimitsu snap ins would work. if they’re smaller, you will have to do some dremel work.

Looks like the stick is mounted in a very strange place - still useable, but weird as hell.


#3

This is the thread that you want, but unfortunately, the picture-links are dead.


#4

After reading that and digging further into the Playtech Pro, I’d be inclined to shoot that thing and just buy this: http://www.amazon.com/Mad-Catz-Arcade-FightStick-PlayStation-3/dp/B00FC1UH82/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1400515320&sr=1-2&keywords=madcatz+pro

Replacing the stick and buttons alone is going to cost about $50 (unless you get a good deal on used ones). A new PCB (if you don’t have the skills to work with the existing one) will cost $20. You will also need a dremel, which is more money if you don’t already have one (though technically you could sand or file instead). Also, you’ll be putting a lot of time and labor into it, the value of which is your call.

So in short, you’ll only be saving money if a) you can work with the existing pcb, and b) you already have all the tools needed.


#5

Thx for the honest reply and suggestions you gave me.

I do know that shooting this down and get a better one is a better option for a lot of reasons. I also did consider it but the shipping cost me more than you think it would.

I have my soldering tools and some other tools that I need ready, just might not experienced enough to call myself a pro at it.


#6

In that case, learning on something cheap has its advantages. If you buy good parts, you can always take them out and put them in something better later.


#7

that looks simple enough to mod to me

that big pcb looks like it’s there just to act as the trigger, so you should be able to get those 9 wires and solder them directly to the buttons (or quick connect if you have ways to crimp them)

those freaking 2mm on the buttons are a pain in the ass. as an owner of a modded green goblin, i can relate to you… but if you have access to electric tools to make the holes wider, you will have a lot less work than I did (yeah, i sanded it all by hand… like a caveman)

and to be honest, if I was you, I would drill a new hole for the JLF closer to the buttons, that one you have there seems weird. but of course, if you’re good with that layout, there is no need for that.

and to be honest again… I’m really curious about this stick and I would love to try modding it :3
if you happen to live in the DC area, I will gladly help you if you want lol


#8

This is what community is all about. Good Shit. It does look like fun. I would help but I’m in Texas.


#9

Lol sorry to disappoint you guys but I lived in South East Asia :-/

And I don’t mind how far off the joystick located at, since I myself am a pretty big guy if you could say, the placement is quite a good fit on where I place my hand when I use this.

There is this annoying 2 heavy dark black stone inside it, removed it because it’s so darn heavy.(about 1.5kg each piece)

I guess I need to get extra wires and some connectors.


#10

they put stones inside the stick to increase weight? lol that’s awesome. metal panels are for pussies hahaha

yeah, if you are planning on using sanwa osbf 30 or something like that, you will need .110 quick disconnects. Focus attack sells wires with them already, they have packs with 16, which should be enough for you, or you can also daisy chain the grounds, and they have wires for that too. but you can always make your own, or just solder the wires to the buttons if you don’t care about the work to remove them later on…

anyways, modding is always fun and you will feel hella good when you’re done. good luck there, and if you need any help just ask us :slight_smile:


#11

As one of probably 2 people with the actual credibility when it comes to this stick, all you will need are:

  1. soldering iron
  2. 22AWG stranded wire
  3. 110 QDs
  4. JLF-TM
  5. sandpaper
  6. handsaw.

The soldering iron and 22AWG are self explanatory. The JLF-TM is the kind of JLF you will need so that you can connect to the wires. The sandpaper (preferably 300 grit) is for widening the button holes. You are correct in that they are 28-29mm and need a little bit ow work to make Sanwas fit. The saw is for the pegs that keep the button PCB in place.

Optionally, you can drill out a hole under the stick if you want it mounted at the correct height.

Fuck!

I need to find and reupload the pics for that again.

EDIT:
Images in that post are now fixed.

EDIT 2:
Might as well bring up this thread too.


#12

It’s kinda off topic but I think the one you mod for your friend is very
Similar model to mine :-0


#13

By the way should I get the screw lock button or the clip button?


#14

Screw buttons are more versatile, easier to manage and remove.


#15

Also is it possible to use the JLF-TP instead? I can’t seem to find any TM models around the net.


#16

It is because it’s the exact same stick.


#17

Reason d3v recommend the JLF-TP as the stick you are modding is not common ground. So you need the individual tabed micro switches.


#18

When using a JLF-TP, you will have to remove the TP-MA PCB and instead replace it with 4 separate microswitches from OMRON. Either that, or get one a JLF wiring harness and solder it in.


#19

Or cut the traces and disregard the connector.


#20

Beyond d3v’s complete overhaul of it, you can probably simplify a few things. You’ll still need to solder, but you can get away with a bit less, I think. This is assuming you’re on a budget.

First up, the joystick. You can probably leave the joystick alone as it has been mentioned that it’s a JLF clone. If replacing it with a full on JLF seems daunting, you can maybe just replace the microswitches to achieve a “similar” feel. I don’t know about the quality of the spring and the rest of the plastic housing in there, but I don’t think they’ll be complete trash.

The buttons, you’ll want to do what d3v did. Replace with some Sanwa snap-ins, call it a day. Good luck