Need advice on modding MadCatz PS3 TE to work with PC


#1

Hi guys, I was hesitant about starting a new thread but none of the existing ones I found contained answers to my noobish questions so here goes.

I bought a PS3 Round 2 SFIV TE years back thinking it would work with PC and PS3 which turned out to not to be the case. This hasn’t been a problem since I only played on my PS3 but now I wanna move over to SFIV on steam and need my stick to work with my laptop.

It doesn’t work despite my laptop having USB 3.0 ports which some say is compatible with the TE’s PCB. Via USB cards are also not option since I’m stuck with a laptop for the foreseeable future. So after ****ing around with multiple drivers and stuff I’ve decided to replace the TE’s PCB to work with both my laptop and PS3.

So I need advice on is what should I get to mod my stick to be both PC and PS3 compatible. After doing some research I’ve narrowed down my options to:

  1. Multi-Console Cthulhu
  2. Zero Delay USB Encoder
  3. PS360+

As I have close to no knowledge and experience with electronics and do not own a solder, which PCB is the most noob friendly and hopefully doesn’t require soldering? However, if need be I’m willing to find one somewhere and take the plunge. Which PCB would allow me to retain all of my stick’s current functions like the Turbo and Home buttons? Auto-Detection is not necessary but would be a added bonus.

Other than the PCB will I need to get anything other than wire cutters and stuff? Do I have to purchase additional wires or will working with the existing ones do? I’ve read something about purchasing Quick Disconnects, those seem easy enough to work with but from what I read not all PCBs require them. Also how do you secure a PCB in the stick after all the wiring. Some of the videos I saw just closed up the stick without securing the PCB to the casing, is that safe?

Lastly are there any guides out there addressing my particular problem? Most that I’ve found seems to be for the 360 version of the TE, even the TE Kitty that I was hoping would solve my problem seems to only work with the 360 ver.

Sorry if I’m asking too many questions but I’m really new at this! Thanks!


#2

none of them require soldering and you can use the wires and quick disconnects already in your stick you will just need a wire stripper to connect them to the boards. the ZD encoder comes with it’s own quick disconnects and wires for oyu to use. if you want any of those pcbs to work with the existing home and turbo buttons you will need to solder.start + select acts as the start button for the PS360+. some people secure the boards to the case with added feet or hot glue. sometimes all of the extra wiring from dual-modding can act like a packing mesh that keeps the board in place so you don’t need to adhere it to the board. this is of course not recommended seeing as the board’s connections could become displaced over time with enough shaking.

your issue is strictly a hardware one and can’t be fixed without modifications to the laptop’s motherboard.


#3

You could also use Jasenscustoms.com’s Morpheus board.


#4

Wow thanks for the quick response guys!

If all of the PCBs are as easy to install, is there a particular one that’s especially recommended around here? I see the MC Cthulhu being recommended pretty often, and there seems to be some discrepancy between PCB respond times as stated in one of the other threads.

I figured from the videos I watched that the home and turbo button needs to be soldered on. If I do decide to try my hand at soldering will all of them support turbo and home function?

I’m assuming you meant that the Start + Select acts as a Home button like the Cthulhu? I’m sorry if I got that wrong. Do all of them have a workaround like that?

Sorry for the additional questions. Really wanna get this right!


#5

The ZD is the only one of the group that supports turbo. Start + select will call up home on the PS360 (after a firmware update) and the Cthulhu. The ZD does not support this function, you need a button for home with that board.

MC cthulhu lag time is negligible, even based on that thread’s actual numbers (ignore the stupid “tier rankings”).

As for securing the new board, a few options are these http://www.focusattack.com/ez-snap-low-profile-adhesive-pcb-feet/ (though you will have to trim the pegs for the ZD), these http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/Products/Catalog/~/Command-Medium-Picture-Hanging-Strips?N=3294774739+5924736+3294529207&rt=rud , or since you’re working in a TE case, you could put a wood screw through one of the mounting holes into one of the unused support columns in the shell.


#6

Also worth adding that you could get the ps3/pc Cthulhu (not the MC, no older console support) for a little bit less money from http://godlikecontrols.com/ .


#7

Great idea with the 3M stuff! I’m leaning towards the PS360+ but I have some last doubts to clear up.

In this guide the modder had to solder the exiting USB cable to some connector. So I need a solder after all? He mentioned using an A-B USB cable but would it fit through the exiting hole in the casing? Also would an A-B USB cable be better or a RJ-45 cable? The PS360+ manual mentioned that “The RJ45 interface, due to it’s non-standard nature, is protected with a schottky diode on the VCC line. Be aware there will be a nominal 200mV drop in voltage if using this interface. The RJ45 pin numbering is for a tab down orientation of the RJ45 cable.” No idea what that means but should that be taken into consideration when choosing a cable?

Moreover he mentioned connecting to turbo. I understand that the video was for PS360 and not PS360+, did they remove that functionality along the way?


#8

If you want to use the existing usb cable, yes. The PS360 has alternate USB solder points that you would have to connect it to. Typically, most ps360 and Cthulhu users install a Neutrik pass through port (which requires drilling a 24mm hole) then connect to it inside the stick using a short USB or RJ45 cable. This allows you to have a detachable and easily replaceable cord. You don’t need to worry about the RJ45 jack unless you intend on using it with older consoles that didn’t use USB connections (PS2, DC, etc)- you could use it, but there would be no benefit, and you would need to either buy or make RJ45 to USB cables.

Here’s the sort of pass through you would be using if you take that route: http://www.focusattack.com/neutrik-nausb-wb-ab-usb-feed-through-black/

I don’t know if the old PS360 had turbo, but the current model doesn’t (at least not that I know of, and I have one).


#9

When my TE round 1 didn’t work with my PC I got this and it worked fine if you don’t want to mod the stick itself.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG


#10

You won’t be able to use the home button on the TE panel without soldering, which will not be much of an issue since you can hold Start+Select to get home on the PS360 and Cthulhu. For solderless install you’ll have to use a USB-B cable and to get that through the small hole in the TE cable compartment you’ll either need to widen the hole or cut the cable.

After you cut the USB cable, slip it through the hole in the cable compartment, strip it and use a barrier strip like this to wire up the USB cable.

Edit: You could also install a Neutrik pass-through in place of the select button with minimal tools, but then you’ll have to to find something else to use as a select button.


#11

Sorry Tensho, I’m using a laptop so a PCI Card is out of the question.

Man, and now I find out that the PS360+ is sold out everywhere. Thanks anyway Prez, if I do intend to get a Cthulhu or something and try out soldering, I’ll report back here.

Edit: That an interesting workaround pzlate, thanks for the advice!


#12

You could also get the CHIMP in the event that you will want to add xbox360 compatibility and no retro consoles. This is a combination of the PC/PS3 Cthulhu and the Imp into one board.