Need bright ideas: How to make a mounting bracket?

Here’s the situation: I’m getting a custom made aluminum plate from djfunkshun to replace the crappy plate on one of my T5 sticks. Button holes and holes for the carriage bolts are no problem. The problem is mounting the stick. The plate will be entirely flat with a hole cut out for the stick to go through, but nothing else; I know I didn’t want to mount the stick directly to the plate because I want that 8-9mm of depth that the mounting brackets give. It just feels better to me, and not having the bolts showing is an added plus.

With limited tool available to me, what kind of bright ideas can I use to make a make-shift mounting bracket? I plan on using some of the JB Weld epoxy to mount it whenever I get it figured out, but I need some ideas for what ‘it’ should be.

I’ve though about getting one of those bent mounting plates, like the one on the JLF-TP-8S. I think I could take the plate off, weld it to the control panel, and use a bolt and locking nut to mount a normal JLF with flat mounting plate onto.
If anyone has one of these spare bent plates, please PM me so I can buy it off you

Another idea is just to find some flat headed bolt, JB Weld the head to the underside of the control panel plate, and use a couple of nuts as spacers. Slide the mounting plate of a normal JLF on and use a locking nut to hold it on. I’d have to use 4 bolts this way to prevent side to side wobbling, but its doable. It does seem kinda hackish and I’d like a more solid solution.

What’d be perfect is a 8mm thick piece of metal, dimensions the same as the standard JLF mounting plate, which four tapped holes for bolts and a big hole in the middle for the stick to pop through. That’d give me the epoxy a ton of surface area for a super sure hold, and the tapped holes would hold the JLF mounting plate on super tight. But I dont have the tools or materials to do this, nor do I know anyone who might.

So, brainstorming time. Anyone have any genius ideas I haven’t though about to make a solid JLF mounting bracket?

Hmm. How about using an S-shaped Seimitsu SS mounting plate (normally used on the LS-32-01) for the bracket? The four corner holes look like they’ll sorta match up with the corner holes on a flat Sanwa JLF-P-1 mounting plate, so maybe glue/weld bolts to the SS plate and then glue/weld the plate to to the panel…?

Bottom mounting would be an easy alternative (no welding, no screws on the top panel). The most suitable plate for this is probably the sanwa s-shaped one which has only two screw holes though so another 4 holes in the corners would be necessary for more stability. Six M5 hex spacers should do the job nicely. A cutout in the bottom plastic panel would be needed and probably also thicker feet because of the screw heads on the bottom metal panel.

The Seimitsu “S” plate that comes on the LS32-01 will match up to all 4 bolt holes in the stock JLF flat plate.

I believe this should work for you.


Does JB Weld bond with both Aluminum and steel?

You may find that the JBWeld will not hold for long. Are you going to have artwork on this stick? If so then use a dremel and a grinding stone to make the tapered recess in place for the screw heads. Then use the ‘S’ plate mentioned above. If you are after the unblemished metal surface look then find a friend with some good welding equipment and weld a ‘S’ plate where you want the JLF to be.


I got a extra Seimitsu mounting plate you can have, I’ll send it with that MAS PCB. PM me if you want it.

I dont think you can weld to aluminum though

According to the site it does. The ‘weld’ part is just a snazzy name. Its just an uber strong epoxy that is supposed to work on porous and non-porous materials.

True, I hadn’t though of that, but there’s no room on the bottom of a T5 stick (HRAP clone) to cleanly bolt. I’d have to either drill holes in the bottom, or similarly glue a mounting piece to the bottom plastic.

Really? What makes you say that? I’m used to epoxies lasting for years and years.
If I do get a mounting plate to use, that should about 2-3 square inches of surface, which according to the tensile, sheer, flex and all of that, it should be able to support my weight from the ceiling easily.

Shit yeah. YGPM.

I am not saying that it won’t work. Just that I have had two part epoxies like this one fail under load. Even with roughing up the surfaces that are being bonded.

I never solely depend on JBWeld.

Well heres what you have to look forward to! For those that are wondering this is an HRAP2 top plate replacement.

Can you do a plate in steel per my cad blue prints?

that would kill my bits

No start/select on the face, no hole for turbo switches, and no damn carriage bolt under my left wrist…Damn that looks gorgeous.

hey toodles i did what your about to do recently to a t5 stick. with jb weld too!!

easy answer is use the OEM mount plate from the t5 on your new one.

just drill out the 4 weld spots on the t5 stick and and it should come right off… then use that mount plate and jb weld it to the new plate your getting. i did this cuz i wanted a more jap layout for my t5 stick.

it hasnt broken on me yet but if it does i will prolly just counter since some small screws from top to the plate to hold it into the metal at the 4 undrilled sections of the mount plate.

I hadn’t considered that, so I will look into it when my seimitsu plate from paper tiger gets in. I’ll compare the two and see which method looks to have the most surface contact with the main plate; if the way you’re described has more surface area (which should mean stronger, longer lasting bond), I’ll certainly try it. Can you give me ay tips for using the JB Weld? Is it better to rough up the surfaces to be bonded, or should I keep them as smooth as possible? Has it worked well for you?

For those who might be interested, Im a pedantic asshole and djfunkshun is gonna be making another one for me. If you’re interested in buying the one pictured about, let him know, he may be willing to sell it.

It should get there today, USPS is being extra slow. Post up if it works, I’m curious to see.

Got it on Monday, and a VERY big thanks for it.

The only areas that match up between the holes in the flat plate on the JLF and the bent seimitsu plate are the very far corners. The holes in the corner of the JLF plate look perfect for a #12 sized bolt, but the matching hole/slits cant fit anything more than a #10 sized bolt. I thought about widening the holes in the seimitsu plate with the dremel so I can use the #12 bolts, but Home Depot didn’t have locking nuts or washers in that size, only #10. So, the smaller bolt it is. I just hope that the four nuts will be secure enough to hold everything without any side to side wiggle. It should be.

Comparing the seimitsu plate to my memory of the T5 mounting bracket, Im pretty sure the seimitsu is bigger, so I will go ahead and plan on JB Welding the bracket to the plate when it gets here. There’s no room between the seimitsu bracket and the top plate for a nut, so I’ll have to put the head of the bolt there and use the nuts to hold the Sanwa plate in place. I’ll probably JB Weld the heads of the bolts to the Seimitsu plate before JB Welding the Seimitsu plate to the plate. That a way, the bolts wont turn when tightened.

I’ll post pictures as it progresses.