I’ve had my PS3 TE stick for about two years, and recently I found out that none of the buttons register, besides the start button, and the stick itself.
Even the home button isn’t working.
I’ve never really opened up the stick before, and I’m a bit ignorant in terms of what to even look for even if I do open it up. But from what I’ve searched up, it could be loose wiring, or I may have to scrap the whole board inside and replace it with a 3rd party board?
Does anyone have any advice or opinions on what it could be or what I could do? Aside from replacing the entire stick itself.
Well, you’d be looking for any wires that are frayed or severed. Connectors that have come loose. Things like that. Problem is, the Home button is actually on the pcb itself. That not working can’t be an issue with a loose or broken wire. I’d still take a look, though. If you can’t see anything there, and don’t want to attempt to install a new pcb, you should seek the services of a professional modder. He’ll be able to find the problem or install something new.
If you do want to try and install a new pcb, it can be easier than it sounds. Especially with a PS3 stick, that’s not dual modded. Get a pcb like Toodle’s Chimp board, some .187 quick disconnects and some wire. Wire up the pcb for you buttons and stuff with the QDs, steal the JLF harness off the old pcb, cut off the old USB and screw it into the chimp, connect the buttons and you’re done. Sorry, I know that’s a brief description, but you can find all the tutorials and info you need here. It’s dual mods and 360 sticks where replacing a pcb can get more complicated.
Dannkk, he needs to use .110" Quick Disconnects for the buttons.
Also, you could simply cut up the existing wire harnesses, strip it, and wire that straight to a Cthulhu
Although, I agree, if you don’t know what you’re looking for to be wrong with it, it can be tough.
If your home isn’t working, could you fist make sure your lockswitch isn’t in the “locked” position, that will prevent the home button from working.
If THAT doesn’t work, then, I’d agree, the PCB is at fault, and I can try to instruct you on how to install a Cthulhu to fix it, using the existing wire harnesses. However, you will not be able to use the TE Home button without soldering. The nice thing, though, is you can use the DISABLE_HOME option of the Cthulhu to make pressing Start+Select at the same time to work as Home.
But, if your lockswitch is on, and home works, we can examine a few things. This is all assuming the TE has been opened.
Are the wire harnesses connected to the PCB frayed? By this, I mean the gray things that are connected to the turbo panel? Are they all okay?
Next, are any of those harnesses not all the way plugged into the black barrier strip that is connected to all of the buttons?
Are all of the buttons connected to that barrier strip? Now, it’s unlikely that all of the buttons have died this way, but just look for any of the quick disconnects not connecting to the buttons.
If you don’t know what you’re looking for, then just post some pictures of the stick’s insides, and we can look for something.
Again, though, if that Home button doesn’t work with the lockswitch unlocked, then it’d be best to look at a Cthulhu.
Sorry for the necro, but I’m back and I actually still need to fix my fightstick, lol. Anyway, my home button definitely isn’t working, and it seems that only a few buttons on the fightstick are responsive.
So I’m looking into buying Toodle’s Cthulhu PCB. Problem is, I am completely ignorant when it comes to electronics. From what I understand, installing it would be solder-free if I just want PC/PS3 support. And I understand that I’ll need some .110 Quick Disconnects? Are there any tutorials for complete noobs like me somewhere? I’ve looked around the main thread and looked at the PDF itself, but I’m still a little confused about the wiring and whatnot.
Ah, I didn’t know there was a cheaper/easier option. Will look into it, thanks! I take it this encoder is pretty much plug and play? And I’m guessing the .110 connectors are for the Sanwa parts that are already on my TE?
Yep, as long as you get the .110 version. I had to re-configure the directional wires on the 5 pin connector on mine, so beware of that. If you run into that, fixing it is add easy as popping them out with a pin and swapping them around, no soldering needed.
I’ve got both, the ZD is only marginally easier–the wires are provided, but the Cthulhu is easy to wire up as well. I’d spend a bit more and get the multi-console, just to have options. BTW, I haven’t spent more than $13 shipped for any of my ZD boards, the shipping did take a long time however.
For the cthulhu, you need a crimper, quick disconnects,a usb cable (ideally a short and a long one for pass through), and a neutrik jack if you take the usb pass through route (which will only cover ps3 and pc). Also if you want old console support, you will need to solder an rj45 cable (which obviously requires a soldering iron and solder, ideally a de-soldering pump as well), an rj45 pass through, and either pre made rj45 cables or an Ethernet crimper and cables to sacrifice.
It’s (“it” being the cthulhu) a better pcb, but the zero delay is significantly cheaper and easier if you don’t already have tools and parts available. I have two of each, for the record.
Also want an imp v2. IMO, if you’re on tech talk you should at least own a good leatherman, which can handle crimping, and wire cutting, just need strippers and a soldering iron. Don’t get me wrong, I like the ZD, and it is easy(ish–I found the stick pcb cable to be garbage so I put it back where it belongs, in its home, I also switched out the garbage Omron PCB for discreet Cherry switches and made my own harness, much better) to assemble, but I couldn’t use it as my primary, too restricting. I need my legacy support.
I used multimeter probes to carefully remove the pins from one side of the 5 pin harness and re-configure them correctly. Gently push down on the tab while pushing back. I may be able to take some pictures tomorrow if you can’t figure it out.
In the third picture, it’s kind of hard to see, but there’s a tab that sticks up that locks the pin into place. What you’re doing is pushing that tab in just enough to slide underneath the plastic it latches on, then use your probe (or whatever you found that works) to push it out from the front. Chart out what physical direction does what as is, and re-configure it based on the chart found in the pictures here ( http://www.focusattack.com/5-pin-wiring-harness/ ), ground is correct as is. If you screw up your chart, just use process of elimination.