You’ll have to padhack a common ground 360 controller. Preferably the Madcatz 4716 or even better, the board from the Madcatz fightpad (because the triggers don’t require inverting). Don’t use an official Microsoft controller, it’s actually harder to padhack (not common ground in the triggers, and it costs more for more work)
Take your joytron’s PCB, and solder signal to signal (IE the wire that touches the “UP” signal on your PS3 board, solder it to the UP signal point on your padhacked 360 board), then solder a ground wire to ground (the black wire that’s on the USB cables to both PCBs), and 5V to 5V (both red wires out)
If you don’t want to have 2 USB wires coming out of your stick (preferred, it looks cleaner, and if you plug in and power both, you can do some serious PCB damage), you need a switch of some sort. Either an Imp, which you solder a wire from both Data+ and Data? to 1D± and 2D±, then you solder the wires that will be headed out to the USB wire to the top. Then you solder a ground and VCC (5V) wire to the Imp, and the signal wire of a button (Usually the home button). When that button is help on startup, the Imp switches which system you’re playing on. It defaults to no button held = Play 1D±, Button held = Play 2D± Or you could use a DPDT switch, a physical switch. It has six holes. Connect the Data + and Data? of one PCB to one side, then the Data± to the other side, and then connect the Data ± going to the USB wire to the center. Make sure that it’s like this:
? ? ?
? ? ?
That’s how you dual mod.
The Paewang case is hard to mod. The buttons are 28mm, when any GOOD buttons are 30mm. Would be better off with a case from scratch unless if you want to dremel out some hole space, which works, too. Also, you don’t need a mounting plate with any GOOD stick you could get in the Paewang. But if you built one out of something sturdier, you could probably also score some weight. Though, you could just tape some pennies into the inside of the case. Nobody will know, and it works!