Need help with PS3 TE stick

I bought it used, plugged it in and everything works except the right direction.

So I opened it up and attached a spare joystick I had from an SE model… same result.

I then tried to use the black wires from the SE…right and down didn’t work with that one.

I’ve seen posts with this problem but the solution is never posted. My next step, if I don’t get any suggestions, is to buy the wiring that doesn’t need to be glued. But I hope that there are other ideas that don’t require waiting.

I dont see that helping. The JLF-TE is made to stay on; that hasn’t been your problem. Get the current problem fixed first.
First off, set slider to DP. Always. If it works, stop.
Second, locate the GND and Right signals on the pcb in the TE. You should see them labelled where the stick plugs into the TE pcb. Plug the stick in, and use a paperclip or some wire to tough those two spots together. If it does, problem lies in the connector, cable or joystick (unlikely. Chances are it wont work) Work on those and stop.
Third, use a multimeter to check the voltage (plugged in) on all four direction signals. Post up what you measure.

  • DP…check
  • I touched R and GND with a wire, nothing happened there… U and D worked.

-Now I have to buy a multimeter? $12 for the cheapest one

No, you dont have to buy one, you just have to have access to one. If you bought a used car that had a problem, you’d have to take it to a mechanic or fix it yourself. Those are the same options you have here. In fact, even if you had one, you’d also need a soldering iron for the possible fix.
So, play it safe, hit up the trading outlet, start talking to modders about the situation and ask how much they’d charge to fix it for you.

I want to fix it myself… so I bought the micrometer. It’s a digital one, costed $15.

I don’t exactly what I’m testing here, but with the multimeter on ACV, D=6.5 U=6.5 L=6.5 R=0.0

DCV would have been better, but that’s good enough.
Your best bet for fixing it is to add a pull up resistor to the Right signal line. THat means a single resistor part, anywhere from 4k ohms to 10k ohms in resistance, with one leg connected to the Right signal line, and the other to the power supply current. I dont think there is any way to do that with a PS3 TE that doesn’t involve soldering. If I were you, I’d attach one leg to the ‘R’ spot under the stock connector, and the other spot to either side of the part labeled L1. Do that, and test it out. If it works, great. If not, desolder or tear off the capacitor under the R signal point, between the connector pins and the edge of the board. But do the resistor first.

Ok, you lost me. There are no modders in my state, where can I find someone to fix this, or who would know how to do what you said?

If I wanted to do the dual mod, would that take care of this problem?

and if it matters I’m going plug L1 and R1 and just use 6 buttons

Hmm just wondering, did the person who sold you the stick inform you of this defect prior to the transaction? If not, you might want to contact him and work things out before you put in more money/effort to fix his mess.

Find a modder whose work you like, and ship it to them. If you’re lucky, they can try the fix and problem solved for not much money, and dual modding from there is cheaper. If the board is fubar’ed, then they can remove it and do a full dual mod for you. Remove JLF (the actual joystick) from the top panel and the stick easily fits into a large flat rate box, the ‘Board Game’ sized ones USPS gives away for free, and costs $14 to ship in the US.

If you try to dual mod it yourself, I think the most likely outcome is a lot of money out of pocket, and no working stick. For best results, let the pros handle it.

I think the board is fubar’ed and would like the dual mod. I’ll ship it for $14. Who’s good out there? I’m in the U.S.

none of those are in my state, and the ones I looked at say no shipping

Those three are just from the first page of the Trading Outlet thread. All are long time respected modders and can receive shipped and ship back when done.