It uses QDs and the buttons should be easy to replace but I don’t know whether to get snap in or screw in. I also don’t know how to connect the 5 pin cable since the joystick is connected with QDs right now. Pics below. btw its a metal control panel.
You can use either snaps or screws on a metal control panel, but you’re going to have to replace all of those connectors with .110’s. I’d probably go with snaps personally… As for the joystick, it depends which model you’re going to go with… You could just use one that has switches instead of a pcb (like a Sanwa JLW or Seimitsu LS-32, both of which should just drop in easily), or if you go with one that uses a harness, just make a note of which wire is for which direction, and butt-splice the wires into the appropriate wires on the harness. You’ll only need to use one common though, not all 4…
The buttons wouldn’t fit in the first place, Japanese buttons are 30mm, happs are 28.
some old metal american cabinets like that the holes may be like 31-31.5mm wide… i recommend getting the screw on buttons
also a JLW will fit on the original mount bolts for the happ sticks. thats the easiest as far as installation goes.
Dynamo cut corner cabinet, I have that same setup. I am cutting out then replacing top part to redo the layout on mine.
when i restored my neo geo cab i replaced the happs with sanwa jlw. they fit perfectly, no work needed.
Crap, I just checked and they don’t fit. So that means I would have to make the holes bigger? I don’t think I have the skills to do that
Also, is the jlw exactly the same as a jlf except for the fact that it uses QDs?
file the holes it if you can!
Dremel/filing the holes down is pretty quick. you have a lot of room to mess up too so it’s not hard either. Filing takes much less time than you might imagine.
You can get some joyticks that take the same QDs as what you have there but honestly but you can easily attach it to the 5 pin cable with some elbow grease and tape if worse comes to worse.
I think I have a dremel but I’m not sure. Which attachment do I use with it and how long would it take for each hole since I have to file down the metal and the lexan?
And once again…
Is the jlw exactly the same as a jlf except for the fact that it uses QDs?
The JLW and JLF aren’t the same size. The JLW is closer to being the size of a happ.
JLW is fairly larger than a JLF. If you’re itching to get a JLF into that cab, there are a few ideas that I’ve thrown around (I have one of these dynamos too):
Get spare JLW mounting plates, drill holes in the plates to mount JLFs to the JLW plates, use washers as spacers to get height correct if necessary.
Essentially #1 with spare/improvised metal (cookie sheet, scrap metal if you have some, etc). Probably cheaper, but takes a little more craftiness.
ATM, I have JLWs in mine. They weren’t too hard to get in, I did have to do some light hammering, but I think my mount bolts aren’t set exactly right.
I appreciate the help so far guys :tup:
You can get a set of files at pretty much any hardware store…probably cheaper than the dremel attachment would cost, and like others have said before me…it doesn’t take as long as you might think.
I bought a 10 pc. Workforce file set for $10 and it can tear through just about anything like a hot knife through butter. If you haven’t done a lot of filing just check to see if the files work in both directions, if not it will dull them pretty quickly if you use them in both directions.
You might surprise yourself at how fast they can widen a hole, and files are a lot more forgiving than a dremel, in my opinion. Oh yeah…you will want to use a half round file so you can follow the shape of the holes accurately.