Need Help With Some Building


Hello everyone, long time listener first time caller here.

I’m putting together some plans to build a nice stick for myself finally. Being this is the first time I’ve built a stick, I’ve been looking around these forums quite a bit to try to find some ideas/guides/tips and anything else that might make my job any bit easier. There is a lot of really nice information on here on pretty much exactly what I need to know, but I’m still having trouble with a few things.

I’m making my case out of wood because I really dislike MDF (my family owns a furniture store so I’m quite familiar with all the pros and cons of the stuff) I haven’t decided what type yet, though I’m not too worried about that. My problem is with the height of the thing, and having enough room on the inside to make my joystick and buttons all fit.

The way I’m sort of figuring it is like this (total height of the case): 1/8inch or so countersunk plastic cover for the art I plan to use, 3/8inch or so for the top mounting surface, another 1/8inch or so for the bottom panel, and then the 2.25inches or so for my joytick on the inside. That adds up to almost 3inches (2.875) tall that this thing is going to be. Just looking through some pictures of sticks people on this board have built I can tell for sure that none of them are nearly that tall. A lot of 2-player ones are, but this is for a solo control. And holy crap, the Hori my roomate has is 1.5inches tall, the inside-half of my joystick has got to be longer than that. I just don’t get it.

So yeah, all the soldering and stuff I have no problem with, and the actual building I ought to be alright on, but I just can’t figure out how to make this thing so it won’t be awkwardly tall for a solo stick.



What joystick are you planning on using? If you go with Sanwa or Seimitsu for the joystick then you can get the case height down to around 2" in height. The thinest I have made stands 1 7/8" but that is with drilling a flat bottom hole in the bottom for the joystick shaft. Most of mine are 2" - 2 1/4" tall. If you are planing on using Happ joysticks then you are looking for a much taller case 3"-4".



Thanks for the quick reply. =)
I really largely prefer (and am probably one of the only ones that actually does here) the bat tops so yeah, that’s what I’ve got. I suppose I could get a Sanwa bat-top or just get a regular ball-top and learn to get used to it, I hear they’re allegedly better in the long run for fighters and the like anyways, which is pretty much all I’ll ever use it for.

I already have this one though, and was really hoping to not have to buy another one. If that’s the only way I can manage to make it shorter than 3inches I suppose I have no choice. 2-2 1/4" definitely sounds a lot more like what I’m looking for. Do you know offhand how deep Sanwa joysticks tend to sit? Like, how much room on the inside of the case do I need for clearance if I end up using one?

Thanks again,


this is a cross section of mine. like Kaytrim said you can get as thin as About 2" for sanwas.

not to jack the thread or anything but when mitering corners do i cut say a 12" piece into a rectangle and then set the chop saw to 12" and 45 degrees and then cut?


panda, that miter cut plan will give you an outside dimension of 12" and an inside dimension of about 11". Nice profile plan. I use 1/8" hardboard on my cases that is how I get the short height. I also use 1/2" MDF on the top and router the profile of the Sanwa or Seimitsu stick into the top. The dimension that most people look for is the height from the top of the case to the bottom of the ball on the stick, IIRC it is about 24-25mm. You have to countersink the mounting plate a bit to get that desired dimension. The reason is they want to have the stick arcade authentic.

As far as the bat tops you can get the Seimitsu Bat top and adapter insert from LizardLick. I have had a few people order that Bat style on my customs cases so you are not the only one.



You could also order a handmade super premium bat top from Kaytrim himself. :wgrin:


Well I think I’ll cross the bat top replacement road when I get to it. For the time being though, I think I’ll just try to get used to the ball. If it turns out that I really can’t stand it and don’t learn to like it then I’ll figure out about switching to a bat top. That being said, I can’t seem to find a link on the LizardLick site about Seimitsu Bat top replacements.

As far as that goes anyways I am going to get a LS-32 and use that in my case that I’m building. That being said, do any of you guys know where I can find the measurements on a LS-32? Total height from microswitches to bottom of the balltop, or all that I really need would be how much clearance below the mounting plate is needed. Even if I’m ordering a new stick for this, I’d still like to start construction soon so I can just install the stick when it comes in and be done with it.

Thanks again to everyone for all their help,


Hey i want to request help for all of you “custom sticks builders-gods” (kaytrim & timoe) xD

I recently receive my japo-pack and i really really want to do a hardwood case… but it’s imposible for me because i don’t have the necessary tools for it… so i have to use mdf after all :frowning:

Wich is the height of the back and of the front on your sticks?

What about the thickness of the lexan/plexiglass?

Well thats for now, regards!


For the Bat top follow this link.
Then go about 1/3 the way down the page. The Bat Tops are just after the Seimitsu joysticks. Then the adapters are a little further down (3 items). Or as TMO Gaming says I do make bat tops from wood. The LS-32 sticks are mounted so the top of the mounting place is flush with the top panel. Here is a pic for an example.


Boy do I feel silly, I must’ve went passed those bat tops a half-dozen times and didn’t even see them. Thanks a lot for your help Kaytrim. I do love your wooden sticks and buttons, but I’m definitely painting the case a solid glossy black, so it would be a bit out of place to have a wooden joystick. Also, with something that pretty, I’d be scared to use it lest I hurt it. Like I said before, I’m just going to try to get used to the ball, see how that goes then take it from there.

Just because of the nature of my schedule this project probably won’t be completed for a month or so. I’ll be ever so slowly completing it tiny steps at a time until it’s finally done, and when it is (if I remember to do so) I’ll make sure to put up some pictures of it at the very least in the sticky thread up there. That is, if it turns out somewhat nicely, if it turns into a “well, it’s useable anyways…” stick then maybe I’ll just tell you guys about it and leave out the embarrassing pictures.


thanks pal. figured i would check before destroying expensive wood.


For the height, it depends on what joypad PCB you are going to fit inside the case. As long as the PCB doesn’t have analogue sticks, battery packs or anything else sticking out of them, you can get the case fairly low (basically the stick and buttons is all you have to worry about) otherwise you have to cater in the space needed.

For my stick, it totals around 7cm in height at the back and 5cm at the front. (in inches 2.75 & 2) and it fits the 360 PCB and battery pack perfectly. It should do I measured and remeasured about half a dozen times! :rofl:


That’s a pretty awesome stick you got there Dreamcazman. Looks like something you’d get made retail or something, very clean.

The PCB I’m using has no nonsense on it like that. It’s an old controller PCB with no thumsticks, no battery packs, no rumble, no nothing. The only thing limiting the height of my stick is that the joystick I have sits over 2inches below the surface of the case. I had thought about angling the case like that, but ultimately decided not to in favor of having a flat case just out of preference.