Need help with the wired 360 d-pad (soldering)


#1

I need help with how to solder the D-Pad of an early wired 360 pad (pic below) to a joystick.

Where are the best points to solder for the D-PAD… I know that I can scrape off the rubber on the top of the PCB and try to solder to those small points, but it seems destined to fail.

What about the reverse side? Which TP points can I solder to?

If I try to find the TP points on the bottom, how do I do that? Do I trace the copper on the other side to a hole, flip it over to the bottom, and then that’s my TP point? If so, how do I find the the ground/common lines?

Also, when I’m done, is it safe to use hot glue anywhere on the PCB to reinforce the solder?

I’ve looked everywhere for info on this (searching here, slagcoin, etc.) but there’s no good info out there on this (everything says to scrape away and solder those small points). There was a thread that explained how to do this with a LATE pad, which has different TP points.


#2

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581799


#3

I looked through the test points already. This version has a very complex circuitry, and the TPs generally do not connect to simple signal paths. I tried several signals to see if they connected with any test points using a multimeter to no avail. Then I followed some of the paths and the signals lead directly to the main integrated circuit, no TPs between.


#4

Looking at the DD1/DR1/etc. points, they’re all around these little “chips” on the PCB. Do I just solder to the little metal “prongs” that are sticking out of the black chip, or do I do something else? Looking at DR1, for example, what does the R-R mean in red?

Also, the DD2/DR2 etc. points are the common/ground points, correct?


#5

There are no common ground points on this board, you have to solder two wires for each button and direction. It’ll work fine with a JLW stick but you might have a bit of trouble if you have a JLF. You can get away with it, but it involves soldering directly to the switches on the stick and cutting the ground traces on the sticks PCB.

btw, I’ve soldered one of these boards before in one of my earlier sticks (the one the wife uses now :lovin:) and even though the points are small, it is do-able as long as you’re a bit careful.

You can use hot glue (won’t damage the board) afterwards to make sure the wires don’t come off, which most likely they will if you don’t and can rip up traces on the board.


#6

Thanks for the info ^

I’m still trying to figure out how to do the D-pad connections.

Does anyone know how to remove the black (sometimes white) trigger mounts that are glued to the back/bottom of the board?