Need woodworking advice on new joystick build


#1

I am almost done witht the new joystick for a friend. He wanted stained wood. So mistakes have been very costly.

But know im at an endpass. I have 3 24mm buttons going to be countersunk on the side. Can someone help me with what tool will be best to countersink a 24mm button. I was going to go look at a router bit see if one will be like a smaller bearing then the blade to make and uneven surface. Then i just route the buttons like i do on the underside


#2

Use a 2 sets of forstner drill bits. first drill 3 pilot holes and make sure they are far enough apart, 1 1/2 inches should do. Get a 30mm forstner and a 24mm forstner. Drill the 30mm first and when you are close to being 1/4 inch left use the 24mm drill bit. If it is too thick to screw in the 24mm bit then go back to the 30mm bit.

It is important that you drill the larger hole first.


#3

As long as you didn’t glue the particle board to the frame, why don’t you just make a new box? I made one of these a couple of weeks ago, and the box itself was the easiest (and cheapest) part. You’d really only be out an afternoon and maybe $20.


#4

You drilled the holes already. You where supposed to countersink the larger hole before drilling the smaller hole.
If you only have a hand drill, what you need to do is drill a 30mm hole in a thin piece of wood and then use that as a drilling jig by clamping it to to the top of the box centered over the hole.


#5

rtdzign is right on the money but if that’s the case in question, it looks like you already drilled the holes on the side. You might have to use another piece of wood for that side if you want to countersink those buttons. I don’t know how you’ve joined the wood so I don’t know if that would be difficult for you to undertake rather than starting over.

Also this has nothing to do with the topic but do you know who drew your Baroness avatar?


#6

Or if you have a drill press, you can bypass the drill jig and use that drill press as long as its clamped down, measured up and aligned where you want the forstner to take away.

Hopefully you didn’t go and glue down the panel to the box yet.


#7

yep the box is glued puttied routed and sanded. Just needed to finish holes. the panel is not set yet. so we are good there. Ill try the jig on some scrap pieces see if i can pull it off. if not ill remake the box.


#8

I have used this drill bit on my stick:
http://s7.directupload.net/images/110615/temp/7lvae5yq.jpg
This Drill-bit is called “Konusbohrer” or “Kegelbohrer” in german; so I guess it’s “Cone drill” in englisch. Just make sure that you get a stepless one. The prices for cone drills are pretty high though - atleast in Germany.
The box was made out of plywood (which is really hard to get smooth btw.)… so this will probably do your job, too. After countersinking it, use a 28mm Forstnerbit; it will get centered by the countersunk surrounding. The result will probably look better than a usual counter-sink. Hope this helps.


#9

If you plan to drill with what I suggested, you might want to invest in 2x 24 inch bar clamps. I’ve found that clamps are some of the most useful things to have in a wood shop. You can then clamp the jig to the side of the box. Be sure to not put metal directly to your box so it won’t leave dent marks.


#10

that looks like the countersink i use for screws
except much smaller


#11

Signed! They’re also perfectly abusable for many other purposes hrhr… It’s like your multiplying your hands :D!

The countersinks used for screws are usually around 6 - 12mm. Those “cone drills” usually start from 20mm and go up to 45mm (non-usual ones will probably go higher).


#12

well the good news is i fixed it.

I looked at my router bits and my “FLUSHER” had a big even bearing on it. I took a small bearing off another bit and that gave it a 2.5mm lip. perfect for the countersink hole.

its hard to get in there to take a pic. but it perfect.

buttons should be in, in the morning. so tomorrow test fit then sand, oil, clearcoat!!


#13

and here is the graphic that was printed for it.


#14

Wow! The countersinked holes either look flawless or they are just flawless! It makes me want a router table :D… The artwork looks great, too! Great work!


#15

thank you. I was scared at first thinking i just ruined it haha

And for the test fit

next is the linseed oil then clear coat it!!


#16

Looks fantastic! I hope mine ends up looking as good.


#17

Can’t wait to see the result. It looks so nice and clean!


#18

Looks great! I make the rear button recesses the same way.