Neutrik USB questions


#1

Hi all. I’m dual modding my Atrox with an FC4 and thanks to a lot of help from some local friends and @JMro from the forums, I’ve got the stick detecting and all the buttons are working through a system where I wired everything up to the old FC4 cable. I could have used the Atrox cable, but apparently to do that I would have to cut some traces on the original board, and I didn’t want to go down that road. The proprietary cable has already been replaced once by Razer, and I’m pretty sure they’re out of stock now.

I decided for the final step of my project I wanted to install a Neutrik USB port, as a lot of people have raved about them. I’ve seen some videos and pictures of installations, but I was hoping to fill in the blanks of my knowledge before I sit down to finish my mod. Apologies if some of these things have been mentioned elsewhere, I tried my best to search thoroughly before I made this topic. Hope some people can help me out with this!

  • Judging from the razer thread and elsewhere, it seems a number of people just install the port, and then run a shorter/shortened usb cable from their original setup to the back of the passthrough. However, JMro posted this picture of his setup:
    The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!
    He’s been unavailable this week, but can someone tell me what I’m looking at here? Did he just solder the four wires to a usb plug, and then plug that in to the passthrough? Or is there some way to solder wires directly to the A slot? I’m assuming the former? Seems like he was able to mount things much closer this way, so I thought I’d try it.
  • The Neutrik I ordered came with a little black cover for the female A port, and it seems to be supported by the little metal support that can be unscrewed and removed for grounding reasons. I don’t think I’ve seen this in any stick setups, so is it safe to assume I can remove both of these things? Or even that I need to remove them, for this to work?
  • How important would you say the rubber boot is, if anyone has made the extra purchase? I was thinking about just getting a black one, but if they don’t serve any particular function I will probably go without. Maybe gives a little wiggle room for not being an expert hole-driller?

I think that was everything I wanted to know. I mostly found videos about the RJ-45, so really the wiring question is my biggest one. It’s really exciting to be this close to having my dual mod finished, I can’t wait to post pictures of the final setup!


#2

Former
Metal thing holds the plug in place, not for grounding. Remove it and flip the adapter so the A end is facing out of the stick, not the B.
Aesthetics only


#3

@Vicko - Thanks! I was thinking I’d gut the FC4 cable further to make my connection to the back of the neutrik, in which case I’d be plugging into the A end on the inside. Shouldn’t be a problem which side I choose to stick out, right? I already bought an A to B cable… I guess in retrospect it would have been nice to have a cable that was the same on both ends. Think I should just return it and get an A to A? Then I’d need a male B connector to plug my work into the inside, and I don’t have one of those handy either… Hm.


#4

Flip the neutrik so B is on the inside, A on the outside
use your A-B cable to plug into your stick and into the co
cut and splice your shorter FC4 cable so it fits nicely inside the atrox and plug into B

make sure you connect power and ground into the atrox pcb as well otherwise you’ll get weird inputs


#5

Just got your PMs, but I’ll reply here in case it is useful to anyone else.

I soldered directly to the A slot, which has 4 quite large metal pins. Then I ran the D+/D- to the DPDT and the power & ground to the common VCC & GND. Also missing in these pics are the two neutrik screws which hold it together, which are quite important.

I just used 2 random screws I had to screw the neutrik into the case, unfortunately I don’t know the specs.

A side on the console and B side on the stick is standard. A-A is a non standard cable and hard to find.


#6

Actually remembering now (it has been quite a while) I actually removed the metal on the outside of the A side so I could more easily solder to the pins.

I removed the metal casing from the A side for ease of sodler, and reversed it so the B side was on the outside of the stick.

If you’re going to use an A USB internally and cut it open to solder to your board/switch, it is unnecessary.


#7

why wouldn’t you just splice your USB cable?


#8

Shit i’ve been backwards all along. B outside, A inside. MB


#9

I was about to say, I thought B was the square that goes outside and A was the rectangle that goes on the inside.


#10

@Vicko - Haha, no worries. I was pretty sure you meant it the other way around, but I didn’t want to sound rude! Thank you for helping me out, I’ve appreciated your replies all the same. :slight_smile:

@JMro - Thank you again, too! I just got a dremel and drill to use for all this from a friend, but I’m going to have to grab attachments that are the right size before I can get that work done. I’m sorry to sound so ignorant, but what part of the A slot are the pins? In the picture you posted, are they the two bits on top and two on the bottom of the jack?

I may just go the route of plugging my FC4 cable into there anyway, but I did really like how you got yours to look so clean… still mulling that decision over.


#11

I think it makes total sense to just use your FC4 cable on the neutrik side, it is just a little tight inside. Fortunately with the Atrox you can move the PCB out of the way.


#12

Yeah, I do wish the stick was a bit taller… when I move things around to work on the inside it feels like a bit of a crapshoot whether the stick will close or not.

I just made a bit of a mess making the hole for the Neutrik. :frowning: I definitely had both the wrong drill bit, no proper way to steady myself since there was already a hole where I was working, and no vice to hold the Atrox steady. Ugh. I switched over to a sanding bit, which was laborious but wayyyy more effective for my self-caused situation. Thankfully the Neutrik covers most of the scratches… think I may buy a rubber boot after all. :\ Hope my screws will come out and back in without much of a fuss when it arrives…

I’m going to keep working on the other aspects of this in the meantime… thankfully the adapter part of the neutrik slides out the way it does, so I can get that all wired up without having to worry about installing the boot to be much more difficult later. If I decide to go the direct-to-pin route, anyway. For now I guess I’ll go with using the FC4 plug and see if I can find a good spot for it. If I really can’t get the stupid thing to close with the PCB moved aside I’ll look into using the pins directly. I’ll post with updates as I have them, I guess?

EDIT: I spliced the FC4 cable and that went smoothly, but getting it to fit in the case without complaint when I try to close the lid is about as bad as I feared :\ this is with just the usb related things plugged in, too… things will only get trickier once I’m actually trying this with all the button wires re-plugged. @JMro - How much of the A-jack did you take apart, to facilitate your soldering the wires directly?


#13

How do you have your stuff positioned? I was able to fit 2 PCBs in the atrox no problem.


#14

Awesome, SRK ate my post. Sigh.

I was trying to place the original pcb to the right, but my buttons were popping out when I closed the case. I started pulling it to the left, but the start and select wires were keeping me from going too far. I think I need to find the sweet spot, and I may also have to splice some longer wires to the A port and/or the switch itself, to give myself some breathing room. I’d love to see how you set up your case, if you have a picture kicking around?