This is the pcb on the fsv3, I’ve seen from other mods that 3 of these colored wires are grounds and can be disregarded, but I guess I just have to trial and error until I get it right.
It looks like every other wire is a signal; ie, from the top:
If you’ve already narrowed down which is Left and Right, it should be pretty easy to figure out which ones are Up and Down.
Comparing with pictures from Page 1 in this thread, it looks like it should be:
Hello there guys !
Hori Fighting stick V3 is my first arcade stick, but I recently found out it is not working properly with USB 3.0(bought laptop only with those and windows 8.1) and I will need it to work with my laptop so I was thinking about modding the whole thing not only the PCB(?).
I was thinking about using Key Strike or Dual Strike v3(I am just not sure it supports windows 8.1), Sanwa JLF stick and Sanwa 30mm buttons. Will everything fit fine, without changing the plexi and stuff ?
Also could U give me a list of all other equipment I have to buy to get everything in one buy.
If any1 has any info abt dual strike working on windows 8.1 with USB 3.0 I would be pretty happy to know abt it.
Edit: Ok I just read a bit abt it all (don’t understand half of it but whatever, don’t have time to read it all), and if anybody could tell me = I have to buy dualstrike alone and it will work, or do I have to buy a new PCB to work with my USB and windows 8.1 ? I really appreciate ur help
Oh and i also found the Cthulhu PCB for PS3 and PC (http://www.shadaloo.eu/shop/parts/pcb-modules/cthulhu-pre-assembled-detail) is it all I need along with joystick and buttons and wires to make it work ? Also Have anyone used this PCB with windows 8.1 and USB3.0 ?
I’ve got the wires soldered to the pcb in the correct order, but I still have a continous right command going through the JLF. I swapped the ground around to other points and even grounded all 4 commands, but right is still continuous even when the right command wire is completely disconnected.
Edit: All other commands except for right are working as they should with no issue.
From your earlier posts, it seemed like Left/Right were working before. Sounds like you might’ve gotten a short on the Right-signal.
Take a pic of your solder-work around there. Or just check for continuity between the Right-signal and any Ground.
Ok, you’re asking a lot of questions in that one post, so I’ll try to sum up answers together.
Sanwa JLF and Sanwa OBSF-30 are fine, but you will need to mod the JLF housing to install it at the correct height. See page 10 of this thread for some hints/details
There’s no plexi on this joystick
To swap in those parts (Sanwa stick and buttons), you will need wire and a soldering iron at the very least. Quick disconnects (and a crimper) would be HIGHLY recommended, as would a JLF harness.
Key Strike, Dual Strike compatibility questions with Win8.1 with USB 3.0 is out of scope of this thread, as it has really nothing to do with the Hori FSV3 that you have. There’s probably a standalone thread for those PCBs… somewhere.
Likewise, Cthulhu questions would be better asked in the Cthulhu thread [here](The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!
Sup peeps. Back at it. So this is what I came up with. Lexan pics coming in later.
Yes. I will be making custom gates for JLFs. This is just a tester and they will be out soon.
I mounted the jlf with out the plate. I took out the stock joystick and with the same 4 long screws holding the stock joystick down, I used those screws to hold the jlf in place. Its pretty close to it being at the right height and its not scraping the bottom of the case. I’m pretty happy with this result and looking forward to selling some panels/matching lexan/gates in the next week or so.
<a href=“http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/theangeltrix/media/IMG_20141013_184708942_HDR_zpsgaesr7hm.jpg.html” target="_blank"><img src=“http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag390/theangeltrix/IMG_20141013_184708942_HDR_zpsgaesr7hm.jpg” border=“0” alt=" photo IMG_20141013_184708942_HDR_zpsgaesr7hm.jpg"/></a>
Came back to it and finally managed to get all the directions and buttons working!
Thanks for all the help guys.
Ok. I can’t post pics like I used too. Not sure what happened.
Still can’t post pics like I used to. What changed? Can somebody help?
just hand type the image tags
Don’t post from your phone. Vanilla made a change that borked BBCode from mobile.
I knew something changed. Thanks guys. Much appreciated.
Lol. This sucks.
hey guys. I just recently got a Hori Fighting Stick V3 PS3. I am trying to but an Akishop PS360+ pcb in it. I want to wire the “Home/Start/Select” panel pcb to the Akishop pcb but i can’t figure out which of the wire ribbons are the soldering points to the home’start’select. any help would be appreciated
So I purchased the FS V3 about 4 months ago and was loving it. I even went and got bought some sanwa parts and modded my stick. It was great.
But then recently it suddenly stopped being detected/recognized by computer. Occasionally I would have to unplug and replug it to get it working again. Also, on rare occasions I felt that inputs were not being recognized.
The inputs would hold for a few seconds, the stick would die for a little bit, and then come back. It was starting to get frustrating just sitting there mid-game being able to do nothing.
Now the stick entirely is just not reading inputs. I’m pretty sure the pcb just crapped out suddenly. I really wish I had done slightly more research on other sticks and just dropped the little extra money and have gotten the qanba q1 instead ;_____;
im not sure but has anyone else gotten this kind of problem with their hori fighting stick v3? or possibly even their fighting stick vx?
is there any way to make sure it’s a pcb failure and if there’s any kind of fix for the problem?
Before blaming the PCB, I would first look at the connection and/or integrity of the USB cable. Do you wrap the cable around the casing when you’re not using it?
@FreedomGundam No, I’ve never wrapped the cable around the stick itself. I’ve read up on people screwing up their cords like that so I tried to avoid doing that. The cable’s been out and hooked up to my computer ever since, plenty of space for safely moving it around.
I’ve also tried all the usb ports all over my computer, the rear, the front panel, and both usb 2.0 & 3.0.
Strangely, after a few tries it’ll eventually get detected when I plug it in the back of my computer but when I try to plug it into the front panel it would never be recognized, ever.