Newbie, i need of help (modding) arcade setup


#1

Hi everyone,

So I have been getting into Fightsticks, sorry (arcade sticks)

I had a bit of extra cash but could not afford to keep these and decided to buy a few sticks try them out and then re sell the ones I didn’t like.

I bought a ps3 fightstick te, sold as a ps3/360/pc stick, that did not work on my pc or 360, have since (sold) this stick. (My favorite stick bar none)
I also bought a ps2/xbox 15 aniversary street fighter stick (the big one with square gate and bar top, I liked it is what I remembered as the arcades i played as a kid. but I did not like they way it compared to the TE. (sold)
I also bought a HRAP EX-SE, liked this more than the 15th, but less than the TE (still have this one)

so from this I know that I like Sanwa, and that is what I want to use :slight_smile:

I want to do a budget arcade setup 2 player , just the front where you have the sticks and buttons and just sit it in front of my TV.

my main system will be xbox360, then Wii, , pc, ps2, ps3. in descending order.

I would ideally like to mod my control panel to work with all of these, and that is where my main question comes in, I have read so many threads, and it seems alot are out of date and promoting things that are no longer available. chimp, and numerous other options i am unable to find or they are outside of my budget.
I am in Australia if that helps.

my initial idea was to pick up 2 te 360 sticks cheapest I have seen them go for is $80AU, so thats $160 if im lucky,
I picked up 2 of those cheap ps2/3 encoders of ebah with the intention of dual hacking the TE’s then using a ps2 to wii convertor!

my latest idea is to buy a 2 person control panel from a astro cab or the like and make a front cab like said above^^ but I am then unsure what is the best way to get 360 support, I am getting the feeling that padhack is the most cost effective option at the moment, are there any other options that are either a hell of a lot simpler or cheaper?

I do have 2 third party xbox controllers that I could sacrifice but I am unsure if they are common ground one is the madcats mini and a afterglow led both have issues with the sticks wanting to (look) up. would this be an issue and are these viable?

Last question can I pad hack and then use the ps2/3 encoder to have a multi system arcade stick?
It’s my understanding that I will have 2 usb cables and a ps2 cable coming out, but will there be any issue other than that?

thank you so much I have read so much, but there is so much info and every time I thought I had found the answer I found another option and more questions.

Reuben


#2

The easiest option would be two ps360+ pcbs with a ps2 to wii converter. Downsides there are a) the converter may not work, or may be laggy b) I’ve read that the ps360 doesn’t play nice with a couple of games (Tekken 5 is the only one I recall for certain), and c) you’re already invested in the ZD encoders (which I have heard zero complaints about game compatibility with).

Given what you already have, I think your idea of dual modding the ZD encoders with 360 pcbs and using a wii converter is your best bet, though you may still run into converter issues. Based on this link, I’m thinking the afterglow is ( *The “padhacking” thread* ), but you could always start poking around with a multimeter to find out for sure. The easiest 360 padhack I’m aware of are the madcatz fightpads/brawlpads.

If the ps2 to wii converter is problematic, you could tri-mod by stacking a pii-wee (you can find one here http://godlikecontrols.com/ ) or a wii pcb from a TvC stick or the Madcatz TTT2 stick (the tading outlet here would be a good place to look or ask) on top of your zd/360 padhack- same principle as a dual mod, just adding a 3rd board.

Another option would be to use MC Cthulhu pcbs (tough to find right now, out of stock everywhere at the moment) set up with RJ45 jacks dual modded with 360 pcbs. If your wii has Gamecube ports, you could use the Cthulhu’s GC controller compatibility.

Assuming you still need the Sanwa parts, you could order two Madcatz TTT2 wii sticks on clearance to get a good deal on the parts and wii pcbs, then implement one of the options already described. Probably not a cost effective option with the shipping charges to your location.

One more thing that’s critical: if you end up with a bunch of system cables dangling from each player’s side, be absolutely sure you do not have more than one system plugged in at a time per player. You will fry your pcbs and probably your controller ports as well. Use a zip tie or something to keep them all too close together to be plugged in simultaneously.


#3

Scratch all of that and consider with this idea: Check Out My New Arcade Stick! (No Image Quoting)

Quick swap pcb’s in project boxes connected to DB15 (or D-SUB 25 for more buttons) ports., The extra space needed should be no problem since you’re talking about a 2 player panel.


#4

Thanks president.
You confirmed my thoughts and yet again added more options(I had thought about this before as a stick idea but then the idea got lost when I decided I wanted to go with a 2 player panel, I am glad you thought of it, that looks awesome and not that much more work than a usual pad hack but I have the option of adding more and more project boxes as I see fit, and I also see if I have issues with one board it won’t affect the other boards, and I can still have a working stick while fixing things up. This is all assuming I will have problems lol.

I have the Xbox pads as said earlier, I also have the zd encoder, and I have some spare Wii classic controllers that I can’t stand so they will be sacrificed for the greater good.

In thinking I could have a little door easy access to swap in the pcb’s and then just make some extra storage within the stand for the extra boxes and cords.

Regarding cables,
The ps3 and 360 should be able to use the same USB RJ extension on the outside of the stand?
And I can just snip the ps2/Wii cables from the zd/classic and pretty much just wire in the jack between?

Not sure if I should have two pads per box for simplicity for a 2 player setup, or if I should have separate boxes and I can always have the sticks setup for 1 player on two consoles, I think I want this way!!

I have the chance of buying a astro panel off a friend of a friend but won’t know for a week, he’s over seas, it comes with sanwa parts, but only a 4 button layout, so will need to add 4 extra play buttons. It comes with player start buttons, so will need a few extra buttons for play ability, home, select/back/ Wii - buttons and the Lt rt, rt,Lt, zr,zl buttons, but I am thinking I want all the non game playing buttons off of the panel and have them on the front.

I’m excited


#5

So I Loved the idea but thought of a way to make it even more plug and play,
before you would need to plug in the project box, and then plug in a RJ compliant cable depending on the console and plug that into the console

so in theory if i wanted to change from a Ps2 to a 360 i would need to

1 unplug ps2 project box
2 unplug RJ PS2 cable
3 unplug cable from PS2 (optional)
4 plug in 360 project box
5 plug in RJ 360 cable
6 plug cable into 360 (if not already in)

so 4-6 steps

compared to

1 unplug ps2 project box
2 plug in 360 project box

having a project box that plugs into the arcade panel and the extension

bellow is a quick diagram

the extension cable plug would stick out so that only the related plug would connect not all the other consoles.

…CONSOLE …ARCADE PANEL
…|…|
…|…|
extension…|
cable______________DB15
|…|
|…|
| PROJECT BOX |
|
______________________ __|


#6

Extremely detailed guide on how to go about it courtesy of @rtdzign‌ : http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/116191/

Since portability isn’t a concern, I’d consider leaving the existing system cables attached to save yourself some work (which is what I think you were getting at in that last post).


#7

Thanks for the link, I was reading that earlier, yes kind off… my idea is that there will be connections in the project box to the joystick and also to the relevant console. Just plug in and it will all be connected.


#8

Ok I’m having more thoughts, Could I use a DB-25 4 way switch box to pass the wires from the project boxes to the arcade panel? allowing a simple 4 way switch between consoles?

My problems was when I realized that the power cable is separate (goes with the signal from the control panel to the console)
I’m thinking would it be possible to isolate the pad-hack power cable (the one to the console) and also pass this through the 25pin along with the pcb harness and as such be able to switch not only the controls but the power to the pcb as well?

eg… have pad hack xbox, wires from button inputs go to switchbox, as well as the power wire from the usb cable, after switchbox buttons go to arcade panel and power reconects to usb and continues to the XBOX
would this work? would using the switch box disable power from the console and as such stop issues like over powering etc?..

so I have everything wired up and not have to do anything other than use the switch box, I will need one switch-box and one copy of each project box for each player.

thanks in advance.


#9

If it’s a true switch box (meaning something switched off its totally out of the loop),I don’t see why not. That said, I’m no expert, and I’d be extremely hesitant to do anything like that on account of the chance that everything gets fried simultaneously. I don’t foresee switching project boxes occasionally as much of a burden, so you wouldn’t be gaining much from the extra work and risk.


#10

Bottom line is that the same rules for dual-modding will apply here.
If a PCB is connected EITHER on the USB data line side OR on the button/switch side, it MUST be powered.

As long as your DSUB25 switch disconnects the project-boxed-PCB from BOTH the console(s) AND the control panel COMPLETELY, there shouldn’t be any problems.
I also wouldn’t turn the switch while any of the consoles are turned on, just in case.


#11

OK, thanks guys, sounds like to much trouble, for as you said president not much gain, and as you both said a possibility of damage.
Thanks again for taking your time to respond to my questions :slight_smile:

Oh and gundman your stick that is linked in this thread is just amazing, do you have any further tips or in sights since making that awesome stick? Anything you would have done differently? I am seriously considering trying to do a similar thing or at least with the option down the track to have swappable panels on this 2 player panel.

and one last thing just for completeness, when you said disconnects COMPLETELY did you mean that some switches don’t disconnect completely or did you mean that I would have to wire in the whole cable that goes to the console through the switchbox and not just the power/earth?

Thanks again guys :slight_smile:

I think I will just go for the simple setup of project boxes plugged in, and I think I am obsessing over something that in the long run is not worth the hassle.


#12

There’s plenty that I’d do differently if I had to tackle the same project a second time, but most of it eludes me at the moment of typing this.
My only real tip is that you should do your best and not be afraid to mess up. Too many newcomers are too scared of screwing and and and up learning too my “theory” without any experience in actually applying what they learned.

I understand that people don’t want to “waste” money or time, but if you’re learning something, it’s worth it anyways.

Choice B.
The switches will obviously disconnect, but you have to make sure you’re doing it right.


#13

Thanks again, my plan (ATM) is to go with the simple project box setup, similar to your stick but in the 2 player setup, but design it with the option to upgrade later with changeable panels. I will just have a 2 player panel on a pedistal (arcade look) stand with a door at the front (eventually a mock coin tray) and within the door there will be where I store and switch my project boxes.

With the switch box idea, I assume I would be ok with USB (4 extra wires) but if I was to do a ps2, I have a feeling there are too many wires to run through a 25dsub ?


#14

From CP to project box: U/D/L/R, P1/P2/P3/P4, K1/K2/K3/K4, H/Sl/St, G = 16 lines

PS2 is 8 wires. 16+8 = 24 lines; you’re still fine with a DSUB25. You still even have an extra to run a Vcc line for LED mods if you plan for that too.


#15

Thanks again, sorry to bother you, in hind sight I should/could have just googled that :confused:


#16

One more question, I see that the fight stick had the option of dpad, left & right stick, are there many games when this is needed? I can’t think of any of the top of my head that would need this.
I guess I could always add this option later if I find a game that I just feel I must play on a stick?


#17

Snip


#18

Thanks but I looked through the page, it seems to be made for dedicated setup not for switching between consoles.
Correct me if I’m wrong!! :slight_smile: please correct me, or enlighten me :smiley:
Also does not look like it supports the 360?


#19

What about if instead of switching the controller wires I run a relay or a switched power adapter so the consoles themselves are turned off/on so that there would be no chance of having power to project boxes as the console would not be on?
Of course I would have to follow the usual precautions to shut down the console safely before switching.


#20

After I re-read what you needed I edited the comment. You have to manually change the console and it doesn’t natively support 360. If what I have been hearing is correct this should be changing in the future. I would keep an eye on it.