i would have at least tp’d that guy’s house…lol…
The market is only open one day out of the week. Believe me, this upcoming Friday he’ll have some 'splainin to do.
i was talking about the volvo, lol. fixing a te isn’t that hard, just takes a lot of reading and practice, but they are transferable skills, i become handy and fixed up my house because i worked on my own custom sticks
I’m sure someone on this forum could get it back to tiptop condition. The problem is with shipping back and forth, cost of parts and labor, you might end up paying more than the cost of a brand new stick.
I believe that Karma will eventually get to him. He presented himself in manner where he could be trusted and kept reassuring us that the car has no problems what so ever and wouldn’t want his family members to be treated the same way. People can be really tricky out there
The time I purchased the car, the kelley blue value is 3200 for a very good condition. I purchased it for 1600 w/ 116000 miles so it was still a good buy.
$55 isn’t too bad for a non working TE. The Sanwa parts alone are almost worth that much. Go to FocusAttack.com and put a Sanwa JLF, 8 OBSF buttons in a cart and add in shipping it comes out to $50 and change. So while the guy was dishonest, you didn’t get a bad deal for what you got.
So at this point it would be worth it to look in the sticky thread in tech talk looking for Local modders in the area. That or ship it off to Gummowned or JDM if you want two of the most reputable modders on tech talk.
Since you’ve already figured out how to open it up, take a look at the PCB and check what revision it is.
if your in So Cal I can take a look at it to see about getting it up and running… I have a ton of spare parts to fix easy problems such as these… atm I’m working on a custom stick and dont have time to fully commit to a re-work if the PCB is out of commission but spare parts plug and play is quick and painless…
The buttons themselves are fine. I took the A button out and wired it to work as LB and it worked fine. So I assumed it was a wire problem, but when I used the wire from LB to plug in A in its correct slot, it was still shoddy and eventually stopped working all together. Once I plugged everything back up correctly, all of the buttons (except for the non-wired A of course) were working for about 10 minutes. Then, they proceeded to crap out with the exception of maybe 3 that work consistently. I’ve also just noticed the turbo function doesn’t work. I don’t really care about that, but it seems I just grabbed a lemon all the way around. I should have tested it beforehand, but like rtdzign said the Sanwa parts should closely equal out 55 bucks anyway. Regardless, I’m stuck with no stick, no fightpad, and I pretty much refuse to use a regular 360 controller. Maybe somebody would trade me a Brawl stick for it or something.
Also, I’m not in SoCal, quite far away actually. I haven’t checked what revision the PCB is but I’ll see and post back. Is there a specific number I should be looking for that’s bad?
Just get someone to install a ps360+ board in it, you’ll still come out with a good deal
I would totally pay for a part’ed TE Case. If the case is in good shape and the buttons and JLF are all good, that’s a total steal. You can’t even find a good shape non-working TE on Ebay for that much.
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OT : If you want to find the nearest modder near you, please check this sticky :
It was very unfortunate that you received a faulty product from a dishonest seller, and hopefully you can get your TE fixed, and in proper condition from one of our own Tech Talkers.
I had a similar problem where I had a button out as well as the corresponding turbo LED. I tested that button with one of the working leads and it functioned so I ruled out a bad button. I checked connections and everything easy to no avail. Then I popped open the turbo PCB and began touching the lead of the malfunctioning button to various points to see if I could trigger the button. While I was making contact with the ground/lead, the turbo LEDs suddenly lit up like a christmas tree, including the LED for the button that had been out. As soon as I manually turned off each turbo button, the out button and LED worked fine.
Kinda strange, but I lucked out for just winging it.
That’s strikingly similar to my problem. I just sent my stick off to a computer technician a few towns away to have him put a new board and wires in or I would try that out myself. Supposedly this guy has worked on a friends stick/computer so I’m hoping it’ll turn out okay. If not, I guess I’ll just part it out or sell the whole thing pretty cheap.
Also SavingPrincess, the case looks like it has never been touched. That’s one of the main reasons I talked myself into buying it. I figured if it was in such pristine shape it couldn’t have seen much playing time.
yea it should be an easy fix if all the buttons are working, worst case scenario just swap out the pcb with one from a control pad. takes a little elbow grease but its not too difficult (finally got a change to use “elbow grease” in a sentence)
but anyway, if you’re looking to sell the whole thing, shoot me a pm.
Yes, I can fix this no problem.
I got the Report on trigger the moment he mentions anything sell in SRK.
Or advertise to sell outside of SRK, but in SRK.
I’m in iowa and can look at it if you want. I have a good reputation with locals if that counts for anything. shoot me a pm if you’re interested.
Thanks guys, I’ll be sending out some PM’s with questions. If I can get a roundabout figure on the price it will cost me to fix and it’s too much, I may just sell it.
The TE rd1 stick always had problems with the pcb maybe you could ask madcatz for a new one^^
if that doesnt work you can get an se or better yet a brawlstick cheap and swap out the PCB/wiring since they are exactly the same. I did this cos it was cheaper and easier than dualmodding (i got a ps3 TE-S cheap but i dont have a ps3).
i don’t know how much there going for nowadays but I picked a 360 brawlstick for less than £25 on amazon inc postage brand new.