Octagonal gate for 4-way play?


Does anyone have any experience playing 4-way games on an octagonal gate? I have a HRAP3 that I’ve been using exclusively for Tetris on my computer. Naturally, the first thing I did when I got it was changed the gate for 4-way operation.

I recently started to get back into fighting games after playing SFIV on a friends XBox, and now that it’s available for PC, I’m going to buy it and want to be able to use my stick. Of course, opening it up and changing the gate every time is completely impractical, but I really don’t want to spend another $100+ to get something I already have.

If I were to swap out the square gate for an octagonal one, would it work well enough for both? I know most people like square, but in 8-way mode the square gate is useless for Tetris. I feel like I could manage on an octagonal without giving up too much, and then it would be usable for SFIV as well. Has anybody else tried something like this? Am I crazy?


You’re using an HRAP 3, one of the highest-quality fighting sticks out there, to play Tetris…

What does this tell you???:looney: :rofl:

But seriously, do what you want to do.

I wouldn’t get rid of the Square Gate simply because it shifts so easily into 4-way restriction. You can always open up the stick and switch gates whenever you want to.

Honestly, 8-way is NOT comfortable for playing older, 4-way stick games. It simply does not “feel” good and you’ll want to put the old gate on.

The only thing I’d suggest if I were you would be to get another stick and leave it with a gate adjusted for 4-way directionality OR, if you can’t afford that, replace the carriage bolts on your HRAP 3 with cap socket screws so that you only have to remove the faceplate to access the joystick to switch the restrictor gate. It’s a very easy mod that involves only gluing the saved hex nuts (of the carriage bolts) in place and allowing them to dry in place for a day. The hardest part really is finding the the correct metric size cap socket screws.

If you have a stock HRAP 3 or one of the licensed variants, it’s a pain having to open up the bottom of the base and go through the process of removing 26 screws, bolts, and washers every time you want to mod your stick or change a pushbutton. Trust me on this – cap sockets are a good mod for this stick! With cap socket screws on the faceplate, you only have to deal with SIX screws as opposed to 26 easily lost parts. You’re talking 2-3 minutes to open up or fasten the faceplate versus 15 minutes each way for opening up and closing the bottom of the base and the rest of the stick cabinet. Huge time savings there.

I wish the cap sockets weren’t exclusive to the SA/SE series but Hori obviously doesn’t want to make it easy to mod their non-SA/SE stick series…


That hardcore tetris players are just as serious about their input device as fighting game players.

Could you give me a little more info about how to do this mod? If it were quick and easy to open up the stick, I wouldn’t mind switching the gate between 4 and 8-way whenever I needed to.



Here are two links explaining the role of the cap socket screws and how to do the mod I suggested –



The hardest thing is to find the cap socket screws that fit the faceplate of the HRAP case. I got mine online from an e-Bay seller. His link is provided in the first link. Other people have had theirs special-ordered through hardware stores or perhaps bought them online elsewhere.

Two tools you’ll definitely have to have to do this mod are an Allen Key Set (English or metric depending on the cap sockets) and a wrench for tightening/loosening hex nuts.

IF you can find metric cap sockets, great… then you’ll probably be able to reuse the hex nuts that keep the carriage bolts fastened on top of the HRAP faceplate.

If you can’t find metric cap sockets, some Home Depots do stock English cap sockets with the same style head as the metric cap sockets. Note that they will be measured in inches and that you’ll have to use an English Allen/Hex Key to open English cap sockets, though. You’d also have to find English hex nuts that will thread around the English cap sockets, too.

There are also cap sockets at some Home Depots that have a “cylinder style” head that are metric, too, but I wouldn’t recommend those. You’ll probably hurt your hands if you rub over those.

I’ve modded seven HRAP-style cases this way (5 Tekken 5 cases, 2 HRAP cases) and it’s made it much easier to mod sticks (spring mod) as well as do disconnects for wire debugging and attaching artwork and plexiglass. It’s much easier than having to take off the bottom first every time you want to do a mod!


Could always get a cheaper stick for Tetris. I’ve been contemplating modding out my Hori Fighting Stick 3 with all Seimitsu parts just to play Ikaruga and other shoot em’ up games as I don’t want to mod my TE stick with Seimitsu parts.

But if thats too expensive then George’s idea sounds ideal.


The funny thing is that now that I think about it the old Atari 2600 joystick would have almost been perfect for Tetris! :lol:

Tetris would still need an extra button on that joystick, though. Now that I think about it, Tetris does have two rotation buttons, doesn’t it?

If you’ve ever used one of those original Atari joysticks, they were among the stiffest joysticks made in their day. Sure, they’re considered awful by most standards today, but they’d be about perfect for most older games! (Assuming 100 million people hadn’t used the same stick for 3-4 years straight. Even Atari joysticks wear out.) Right up until the NES days (~1985), most games never needed more than one action button. A lot of the early games that used more than one button had them for movement/rotation (Asteroids) or multiple firing points/weapons (Missile Command, Tempest).

I’d say the biggest thing going against the Sanwa, Hori, and Seimitsu sticks is not their restrictor gates but how loose the sticks actually are in stock configuration. They play fine in stock configuration on Street Fighter IV but not so much on older games.

If there’s one thing you learn quickly after being here for a few months it’s that hardly anybody keeps their sticks in stock configuration after a while! They change the artwork, buttons, and modify the sticks with different gates, balltops/handles, or change the spring tension before too long.

Yes, I no longer own a stock stick… :looney:


Some prefer octo and some prefer square for SF4. However I’m thinking by square you mean the joystick locks into the the horizontal and vertical positions instead of the 4 corners as the arcade sf4 stick does. Tetris doesn’t use the corners. I’m still waiting for an octo gate for my stick and believe I will like it better… time will tell.


Yes, he does mean Square, as Sanwa GT-8F can be turned into 4-Way; UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT.


Why not just make a cheap tetris stick? You need like what 2 buttons? Just find a cheap usb controller from a thrift shop or something, order 2 or 3 buttons, a JLW (better 4 way and cheaper also if usb pcb is not common ground) and stick it in a tupperware or something. Could cost you about $50. While expensive, it might be fun.

You could also ask to buy some Madcatz Se stock parts and if the buttons die, you got about 6 more. You could then use your 4 way JLF gate on a SE stick.

Like this guy.


Yes, what rtdzign said.
You may want a Sanwa JLW, because its GT-8N is better in 4-Way than the GT-8F of Sanwa JLF.


Thanks for the case mod links. Regardless of what I do, I think this is probably a good idea.

A bit of background on Tetris. It’s not the same game that most of you are apparently thinking of. Those 25+ year old versions are basically unplayable now. Current versions require just as much speed and precision as fighting games, just with a smaller move set. I’ve already been through a few cheap sticks, and none of them were good enough to do what I needed. Look up Tetris: The Grand Master (and TGM 2 and 3) on youtube to get an idea of what I mean when I talk about tetris.


I believe you dude. I heard that the game has evolved to the point where people be trying to draw pictures with the holes and stuff.