Is the cable available to buy seperately should the need arise?
So I got my P4U TE2 and finished modding it.
The important thing to note is that I used Seimitsu PS-14-GN’s
I know that d3v posted a review of the GG XRD TE2 earlier this month and stated "it’s still nearly impossible (at least without some modification) to use a screw-in X button due to the spacing of the stick putting the edge of the button right by the mounting bracket."
There was no need for me to modify anything in order to fit in the screw-in X button. All you need to do is put the screw up to the bottom of the hole first, then you just feed the button through the screw from the top.
I did the same thing to my TE2. Yeah there is no problem if you use the semitsu rings, it’s the sawna rings that give you trouble. The PCB case also makes it a bit tricker to get a Semitsu stick in there.
Anyone put a Hayabusa stick in? wonder if the PCB case gets in the way
Can anyone verify the results of this test? It states that the TE2 is the slowest PS4 pcb.
I was personally surprised to find that the TE2 is apparently the slowest pcb, but maybe it’s because I’m too much of a beginner in Xrd to notice.
Most of us here don’t lend much credit to those results. You’d think if madcatz sticks really did have those lag issues that a lot more high end players would be complaining. Either way theres a thread for that test [BS Lag thread](How much does your arcade stick lag? Arcade stick input lag testing & results thread If you want to read the discourse go there.
I finally got around to actually trying out my TE2 after about a month of having it. The buttons are really as sensitive as everyone says! I barely touch them and they trigger. My main concern is the stick lever and hitting diagonals. I can hit the four cardinal direction very easily without moving the lever much. Hitting the diagonals though, I have to move the lever all the way to the gate corners! This makes forward/backward jumps harder to do (I either do a straight jump up or I walk forward first and telegraph what I’m going to do to my opponent) and doing QCF/QCB motions end up showing only D,F or D,B on the game’s input display. I’m trying not to ride the gate but this is making it difficult to avoid.
Is there anything I can do to make easier to hit the diagonals or am I stuck with what I get?
I suggest you install this into your TE2’s JLF
As for the Sanwa buttons, I’ve found the Seimitsu ones to be less sensitive.
edit: So it appears that I was mistaken with what @ennui said. I thought he was talking about the dead zone of the JLF, rather than being new to fightsticks.
You don’t have to be a beginner in a certain game to notice input lag, if you don’t notice
Sounds like you’re new to fightsticks, practice. The JLF is the most common and used lever and most Japanese arcade cabs use it, if you can’t do simple motions then changing parts or a different stick won’t help, I would try to change parts or a new stick only when you’re decent enough with something like a JLF and want to try something different, before that seems pretty pointless. So get to training and practice practice practice
That’s what I’ve been saying since I started posting here. I have lots of experience with Happ parts from back in the late '90s or so from playing at arcades but I’m new to Japanese arcade parts. I’ll practice then, but I’ll be hitting that gate an awful lot.
@ennui You can get circle and/or octo gate insert pieces for the restrictor gate for your stick. When I started with Square, I didn’t like it because I had the same problems. With practice though, I eventually got used to it. Ironically though, practicing with a circle gate and octo gate made me get better at square for whatever reason.
If you notice with your square gate inside your TE2, it’s actually two pieces. You could remove the inner insert (the square part) and replace it with a circle or octo insert. Video here on how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5V_Fh8i6eSY
You can purchase the inserts cheap at:
You could easily put your extra inserts in the two small foam holes inside the TE2 at the bottom left.
Another solution to just to try out is just removing the square gate piece, putting it away in that foam hole/slot, then just play with an improvised circle gate (it’s circle now because there’s no insert now and default is circular.) There’s a larger throw range when going for motions, but it helps you get used to circular motions and get a general feel for doing motions. Then when you want to try square again, put the square insert in and try to compare how your execution is different. If you realize you like circle but want a the throw range of a restrictor gate insert, then you could buy the O Circle Restrictor Insert. If you want something circular but has nooks like the square gate so you can find your corners or cardinal directions, then the Octagonal Restrictor Insert may be your thing.
The thing is, if you ever plan to visit Japan to play in their arcades, they’re most probably all running square gate. Same for borrowing other people’s sticks when you go to a tournament and need to borrow a stick just in case; more likely than not they’re running square gates. So although I ultimately like circle/octo, it’s good to get used to square since that’s what the standard seems to be now. So if anything, it’s good be versed in playing with different restrictor gates.
For now though, I think you may find it easier to learn stick with a circle/octo gate right now. There are cheap solutions without having to go as far as getting a new stick like a Korean Fanta just to know what it’s like playing without a restrictor gate/circle gate.
Ordered two TE2’s and have a few questions. I’ve sort of flipped through this thread, but not really sure of definite answers, particularly regarding PC.
- Do any of the TE2s work with PC? Or would you need to mod? I ordered a PS4/PS3 TE2, and an Xbox One TE2
- Following up on the previous question, if I wanted to mod both of my incoming sticks with a PS360+ (is there a better option?) how difficult might that be?
- From a few posts up, does anyone have experience with the supposed lag of the TE2 PCBs? Even if the PCB had the 5.05ms lag as stated, isn’t that less than a frame?
Originally, I wanted to try and find a solution that worked for PC, PS4, PS3, XB1, and 360 but alas I’m not sure something like that exists yet.
My PS3/PS4 Xrd version works perfect with my PC
There is one option for that which is modding an XB1 TE2 with a crossbone and ps360+.
My PS4/PS3 TE2 works on PC just fine.
In regards to the lag, I’m fine with my execution and no hang ups. The issue with the 5.05ms input latency is in very tight situations. If I recall, that article said that per frame in the game (at 60 frames per second) has 16ms polling windows to know when to do a move. So with 0ms latency, if you hit the button within the 1-16ms timing it doesn’t matter if it was the 1st or 15th ms, the input will come out within the following frame.
So the big issue is if the window is 16ms, if you hit the button (for example) on the 15th ms, but there is 5ms latency, the game will register it within the next polling window (so within the next frame.) So in the case of GGXrd with having 0 frame throws, and that throws that occur on the same exact frame nullifies the throw attempts (and instead a normal attack comes out), this is really important.
Let’s say both people throw on the same frame, but happened within the 14th ms polling window. Let’s also say Player 1 is using the PS360+ on PS4 but Player 2 is using a TE2. Player 1 has no latency but Player 2 has 5ms latency. So towards the end of the polling window for the first frame, Player 1 hits the throw and throws Player 2 although Player 2 hit throw at the same time. Player 2 gets snubbed because of the 5ms latency and the throw input gets polled in the next polling window for the next frame.
So I’d say the biggest issue when it comes to this kind of lag is near the end of polling windows and under frame tight circumstances that have big consequences (the 0 frame throw could make or break a round/game/match or turn the tides around) even though both players hit the same exact window with the same intentions.
The worst case is playing with those controllers that have huge latency like 16ms latency, that’s like a frame delay right there and unacceptable. More so for those controllers with 30ms+ latency.
So for me, Xrd TE2 works out fine for me and I don’t mind that 5ms latency. For others, they may value those 5.05ms more than me and may want the best possible product out there, which is fine as well. Just gotta find out what you value and what your tolerance/threshold is for input latency.
Well now I’m at SEVEN days waiting on Madcatz to do something about my broken stick. This is pretty gross.
Meant to post these earlier but I got all excited and have been playing all weekend. Finished my TE2 HitBox mod using a Toodles SOCD Cleaner. First off, to put any questions about the USB connections on the PCB to rest, I tested it and the wires are colored properly, which is to say VCC is red, Data- is white, Data+ is green, and then the two grounds are yellow. On the board they’re on the side closest to the USB plug. The Data- and Data+ are labeled on the board with a minus and a plus, and the VCC is separated by a little white line. I used a sheet of .093" thick sheet of plexi from Home Depot to replace the metal layout panel in the TE2. One thing I learned is that there are little spacers on stock buttons because the metal is too thin. Turns out the plexi is too thin too, so my buttons spin. I’m hoping placing artwork on top will be enough thickness to stop this, we’ll see.
So, I guess the R&D department still hasn’t done anything about my air bubble issue. I started this ticket 27th December. How can it possibly take this long?!
Got mine today!
A few things:
-Stick feels really great; can’t wait to modify!
-Purolator left this stick on my doorstep in the snow out in the open. No signature or anything; just there for the taking.
-I brokeded one of the quick disconnects; it still works fine now that I’ve fixed it, but it gave me a bit of trouble
-Two of the orange Sanwas were on the verge of having their snaps broken, and they finally did when I took them out, which is when I noticed this. Hence the two out of place white Sanwas from my old HRAP Kai (which was passed down to my brother)
-I have way too much trouble unscrewing the bottom left and bottom right screws of the bezel because my hands are too fat to rotate the screw driver without being obstructed by other parts of the case
-Plexi moves around within the bezel
-Top of the case does not sit flush with the bottom half, so I need to be careful with how I hold this stick to avoid hearing snap sounds that make me feel as if something is broken
-Because I didn’t read the part of the box pertaining to its contents, I gazed in awe like a damn fool when I found out the screw driver was an interchangeable Hex-Flathead
Consider a ratcheting screwdriver