OG Cherry and New Cherry compatible levers


#1

I want to do a lever mod to a jlf but if you use levers with a normal omron you need to get a smaller actuator or the switches dont disengage. i know some cherries feel like they engage deeper. can someone link me a switch they know that has a compatible lever i can use with a cherry…i think zippies are the same way too so also maybe show me a switch that has levers compatible with a zippy? thanks!!! i am open to any other switches with levers that would engage deeper so i could use them with a jlf.

i like the feel of jlf i just want levers

thanks!!!


#2

I put levers on a JLF before and didn’t have a problem with disengagement.


#3

I will retry it, but I am pretty sure I had issues. Anyways, any thought on the questions at hand?

Thanks!


#4

Oh, right, because I have actually done this mod too. You need the levers that snap on the external case. You can’t use the levers that go in the slot because Cherry uses square holes that the lever hinges don’t fit in, unfortunatley. Making the hole bigger (and deeper too, they’re also not deep enough) will end up going through the case and then the lever flops around. Cherry switches are not good for levers.

On the other hand, I never noticed enough of a difference between the engagement in the Cherry, Matsushita, Zippy, and Omron switches I had. They’re usually engaged once the exposed part of the pin is only half visible.


#5

Lame… I will give the TP-MA lever mod another shot, maybe I used the other switches I Have. I can’t remember. 2 many damn switches. I do remember the cherries disengaging deeper than the tpma omrons though…well it sure felt like they did. maybe my engage sensitivity is dialed to over 9000.

ill try when i get home. thanks moon


#6

Cherry has a different design to them, they use springs for tension (DO NOT TAKE THEM A PART THEY ARE EXTREMELY HARD TO PUT BACK TOGETHER!!!) instead of thin copper plates. They have a different feel because of that. Zippy switches also use springs (though they’re easier to put back together if you accidentally pull them out) so higher tension ones will probably feel a tad different, too. The Asian switches all seem to be based around the thin copper plate design and I kind of prefer it for a number of reasons.


#7

Well guess what moon!!! I have taken them apart! I have put them back together! And I have even licked them! SO WHAT NAO!?

jk lol thanks!


#8

Okay @Moonchilde , here’s one for you =)

What would be the benefits\cons of running the levers in the first hole

vs the second?

Running them in the first hole makes them feel more sensitive, maybe because the hangle of the lever is sharper…

Break it down for me switch master flex

Thanks!


#9

Oh yeah btw switches engage just while moving the stick around in the tiny jlf wiggle room before u actually move the stick…need a smaller actuator or sand down the red bumps mr thinks…


#10

First hold is the proper set up because of diagonals, otherwise, there is no point to using them other than faster engage. The whole point of levers is diagonals, in the second hole you don’t get better diagonals.

I really need to get my hands on another JLF :frowning:


#11

So the top pic yeah?


#12

Indeed.


#13

Nice. And the last question…for now… haha. do you know of any omron reed DRV-G2 (whatever is in the official silent sanwas) that aren’t riveted? i can get it out but i would prefer not to have to. or the same switch with levers built in? i know for a fact those disengage deeper because the sanwa sells it with a bigger actuator and the stock jlf actuator doesnt hit diags very well with it.

thanks moon!


#14

Love threads like this. Doods in the lab makin shit happen. Makes me want to unpack some switches and start popping them open to tinker. Worst part of moving is having all of my gear packed up.


#15

Nope, many of Omron’s switches are all riveted. :frowning: If you’re worried about levers I would wait a bit since @armi0024‌ is trying to get some.


#16

Sorry… sone what?


#17

Levered reed switches.

Ideally, you want the levers in the far position but to extend beyond the pin to the tip where the lever is in the close position. Hayabusa and JLF is going to require a different type of lever or a custom cut one :frowning:


#18

Yeah I was bugging the shit out of Bryan (armi0024‌0) for levered reed switches.
I would install them into my JLW.


#19

gotcha. thanks!


#20

there’s a cherry switch that already has short levers that fit in a JLF (well I made em fit in a SE knockoff JLF). They’re called Cherry D43X with short levers, european style since they’re from this Mag-Stik I got recently.

Not sure where to find em other than on the Mag-Stik or buying bulk from Cherry, which sucks cuz I only want 4 not a 100 or whatever.