Operation #2 is Success! (Finally Updated)


#1

UPDATE :Finally after 3 months of fantasizing about playing with my own stick, the wait is over. Along the way I killed one of my own wired 360 controllers (Sniff :’( it’s in arcade heaven now) and I accidentally cut open one of my fingers with a box cutter and went to the emergency room (it’s healed now).

Here it is, the light in the darkness :

It’s the simple poplar design from slagcoin.com. The pcb is a Madcatz fight pad. Case is made of sum wood. Painted with white latex. Plexi glass on top and bottom.

Didn’t have the design I wanted for the layout, so I settled on a Quote from Sun Tzu. Penned by me :).
The layout I wanted was one of Bridget from guilty gear, I posted a quick drawing of what I wanted right here. Anyone interested in doing an HD rendition for me :slight_smile:

Not the exact quote from Tzu, but close enough.

Traditional chinese title of The Art of War, or I hope that’s what it means, taken from Wikipedia. Good book by the way. About war strategies and also the psychological mind games between opponents. Definitely will boost your game.

The guts of the beast. Very Messy. I didn’t even glue down the terminal strip and pcb due to laziness. It’s pretty snug and doesn’t budge.

And carved (actually penned) here for eternity, the one who assisted in birthing the demon of arcade sticks, the one and only jdm714! Thousands of years from now, this will be an ancient weapon of war, unearthed from the lucky next generation, then they shall start a religion and worship jdm714 to provide their ass-kickings.
If you can’t see beyond the glass, it reads :
“This ass-kicking provided by jdm714”

All in all :It’s a really sloppily made stick. It was rushed and came out uneven in some places. It needs a new coat of paint and the plexi glass is a little scratched. The buttons are space out a little and I wish the joystick was raised up more. But it’s usable and I’m adapting to it. Thanks to everyone on shoryuken’s tech talk forum.

Next Projects :

*Install chimp or chuthulu dual mod
*Finish Bridget layout
*Creat Lego arcade case
*Install hand lotion and tissue dispenser :slight_smile:

See you later space cowboy

[S]It is the last day of my senior year of high school tomorrow. For the past few weeks I have been[/S]
[S]working on making my own Arcade stick by spending the least amount of money possible. I had my wood shop teacher do the case and my science teacher do the soldering (So i didn’t have to buy wood or a soldering iron, free labor, yeah!). The last thing I need to do is the wiring of the pcb and parts.[/S]

[S]I have all the parts (I think) except the pcb which was suppose to be a Datel/ Mayflash arcade stick from the UK, but the package never arrived. Having no options left I have resorted to sacrificing my wired 360 controller. Hers’ the list of parts I have to make the stick, please help to see if i’m missing anything:[/S]

[S]*Case[/S]

[S]*Xbox 360 wired (late) Pcb[/S]

[S]*8x sanwa snap in buttons (missing one for the home button, can go without)[/S]

[S]*Sanwa JLF TP stick (No wiring harness)[/S]

[S]*2x different colored LL 22 AWG Stranded Wire (long enough)[/S]

[S]*30x LL Quick Connect, .110" Insulated[/S]

[S]*3x 10 ohm 1/4 resistors (for triggers and analogs)[/S]

[S]*Soldering iron and solder[/S]

[S]Time is running short, so quick responses would be very helpful to stop a paradox (of me becoming an infamous underground street fighter champion) and devastate the space time continuum altering reality as we know it.[/S]

[S]Tomorrow the anti-christ of arcade sticks could be born, or I’ll be stuck playing super turbo 2 on my keyboard (Computers opponents are really aggravating me): [/S]

The Eternal clock is ALWAYS ticking.


I keep getting logged out
#2

why do you need the resistors if you’re not going to use all 8 buttons? And i think you should bypass the back instead of home. i suggest you get a hot glue gun to reinforce the soldering.


#3

Looks like you are good to go.You age going for a 6 button lay out + 2 buttons for Start and back/home?
I would take Chuu’s advice and skip back and use select instead or get a cheapo momentary push button switch from some place like Radio shack (or whats ever near you), Like a little Approx 11mm button for home.

@Chuu, even if Dude Meister not using all 8 buttons for the front (2 being reserved for Start and back/home) often netralizing the triggers do offer some stability.
Some Xbox 360 Pads act buggy if they do not get the right LT and RT information.

Oh yes, Congrats on your Graduation Dude Meister


#4

dont i need the resistors to deactivate the triggers and analog stick? unless im reading a tutorial wrong.


#5

Well you could get away with out the deactivation, but many xbox 360 pads (depending on brand) acts buggy with out the Analog stick/ triggers or having them neutralized. You are better of having your teacher deactivate/ naturalize the analog and triggers just to be on the safe side.


#6

Thanks

Right, Im gonna succeed in this operation.

wish me luck


#7

Don’t Believe in your self? Believe in me who believes in you!!


#8

You do not need to get Resistors for the Trigger and Analog if the Potentiometers are kept.
You do need Resistors for the Trigger and Analog if the Potentiometers are removed.

If Triggers are used, then Potentiometers need to be removed.
If Triggers are not used, then either keep Potentiometers or remove them.


#9

don’t believe in me who believes in you,
believe in you who believes in yourself

also yes, just look at what jdm has written, leave the POTS in place and just glue them down so they don’t spin


#10

Yes, I forgot to type about the glue.
If Potentiometers kept, use glue to keep from spin.

Look at what mr.mortified has typed.
Look at what I had typed.
Laugh.


#11

Who do you think you are?


#12

Wait, I think i missed it in the tutorial, but what is “Potentiometers”?


#13

Another problem I am having is i dont know how to wire up the dpad to joystick.

Here’s pic of the pcb, Im not sure where ground wires go on my stick.

In general how do I wire up the jlf-tp stick to dpad???


#14

the outter edge is ground by the looks of the diagram.

another diagram, see the black, i think thats the common ground.

http://in2amusements.com.au/products/Xbox_360_Wired_Prewired_control_pad-213-20.html

just connect the USB to the pc or x360 and phyically put the wires on till you get a response. Thats what i did when i had 3 buttons not working, was just a loose connection.


#15

I am Simone the Digger, and my Drill will pierce the Heavens


#16

Contact directly across a Signal is Ground.


#17

Definition of “Potentiometers” and where to glue, pwease?

The wiring of the joystick to dpad part is the most confusing to me, and ive read a whole lot of tutorials and vids of people doing it but werent very clear. So to help simplify it for me, can someone go into mspaint and draw some simple lines to which wire goes where using this pic of the joystick

and this pic of the pcb

Hope this doesn’t trouble anyone, and if you can, a thousand thank yous, I’ll engrave your name on to the stck, I’ll start a religion worshipping you, I’ll honor you when I take EVO next year.

I dont wanna make a mistake, and tomorrow (few hours away) is probaly the only time I have easy access to equipment.
So please, please help me out, THANKYOU


#18

Just solder the pins to the Xbox 360 Controller.


#19

great, but im not sure if the pcb has a common ground, so do i solder all 4 ground wires on to that one common pin?


#20

since you’re not using the triggers it doesn’t matter

match up the color of the letters to the circle, and there’s the ground point you can use, you can use that one point as the ground for all those in the same color
as for the JLF, if you’re using the harness, solder your ground to the black wire on the wire harness, if not solder to the point on the jlf switch pcb that’s labeled black (common)

as for your asking of what a potentiometer is, the triggers aren’t like buttons where you press and it registers 100% (this is digital), the triggers are in this case analog, which uses a potentiometer. a potentiometer is essentially something like a variable resistor, giving more or less electricity depending on how far you press the trigger. the potentiometer is the black things on the trigger assembly. make sure they’re set to neutral (i.e. not being pressed) and then just glue them so they don’t move and therefore not give out the signal that the trigger is being held by accident.