Paewang Revolution (Mayflash) Modding Tutorial ver. Laugh [Lots of pictures]


#1

Although there are many tutorials on how to mod these sticks, I thought I would write my own version of the tutorial because my method requires the least amount of tools and modifications. The benefits of my method is that it requires absolutely zero modifications to the case itself and clean and easy installation of parts.

For those looking for the pinout information of the Paewang Revolution PCB, pinout images and notes can be found in the [Wiring] section of the tutorial down the page.

[Required Tools]

First of all, the required tools for this project are

1 x Phillips Screw Driver
1 x Soldering Iron
1 x Craft Knife or an X-acto Knife

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9220/sv102448.jpg

[Disassembly]

Flip the stick over and peel off the rubber feet to reveal all the screws

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4541/sv102449.jpg

Unscrew all the screws and take off the bottom plate

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/848/sv102452.jpg

Unscrew and take off the button support

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/3013/sv102455.jpg

Unplug the directional wires from the PCB

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/2994/sv102457.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/9412/sv102458.jpg

Unscrew the button PCB and the main PCB and take them out

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8301/sv102463.jpg

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/7300/sv102464.jpg

Wiggle this joint gently and break off the two PCBs from each other

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5092/sv102468.jpg

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/1655/sv102469.jpg

You can throw away the big button PCB and just keep the smaller main PCB

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5966/sv102472.jpg

Let’s start removing all the stock parts

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/2285/sv102474.jpg

Remove the E-clip from the bottom of the joystick, then unscrew the 4 screws to take out the stock joystick

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5973/sv102476.jpg

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/7625/sv102477.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7990/sv102478.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/9537/sv102480.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3466/sv102482.jpg

Now remove the stock buttons by squeezing the tabs that are keeping them snapped in place

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7282/sv102483.jpg

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2595/sv102484.jpg

[Installing the new parts]

A Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK joystick and Crown CWB203C buttons will be used for the new parts

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/7200/sv102487.jpg

Snap the CWB203C buttons in place one by one

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/9625/sv102491.jpg

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/8659/sv102496.jpg

You could even leave the buttons like that without the nuts, but I went the extra mile and used CWB203C button spacers. These spacers drastically reduce the amount of time and effort it takes to screw-on the nuts when installing the buttons onto thin panels such as metal panels and plastic panels. Notice how perfect the fit is on the third photo.

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/4493/sv102498.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/8144/sv102499.jpg

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4071/sv102502.jpg

Screw-on the nuts, and that’s all for button installation. The size/thickness of CWB203C buttons are perfect for these cases and does not require sanding of nuts or button holes.

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/977/sv102506.jpg

Now take the JLF and disassemble it

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/4828/sv102507.jpg

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9119/sv102508.jpg

Take a craft knife or an X-acto knife, and cut away 4 of these spots on the body of the JLF . These spots will be used to mount the JLF using 4 screws.

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/7434/sv102512.jpg

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/5957/sv102513.jpg

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/6615/sv102522.jpg

We will be using the existing screw holes to mount the JLF onto the case

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/9697/sv102523.jpg

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7491/sv102524.jpg

However, if you try to use the screws from the stock joystick on the JLF, you will notice that the screws are too long.

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/4228/sv102526.jpg

So I used these shorter screws (found on Fanta sticks at the microswitches) to amount the JLF, and they’re the perfect size and length.

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/8027/sv102528.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7488/sv102533.jpg

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/2021/sv102532.jpg

[Wiring]

In this tutorial, I used a custom harness set to reduce the amount of work, but you can use any wire to connect the buttons to the PCB.

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/4218/sv102536.jpg

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4579/sv102540.jpg

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/6969/sv102541.jpg

Following the pinout diagrams below (thanks zeetes for the detailed pinout!), solder the corresponding wires to each of the 8 buttons. Run the ground wire to each of the buttons as well.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7131/pcbbuttonlayout.png

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3449/paewangrevolutionpcb.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/181/sv102543.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/2484/sv102546.jpg

Now, let’s wire the JLF using a H5P harness. The wire colors will be different if you use a JLF-H harness and also if you install the microswitch assembly in a different direction from my example.

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9444/sv102549.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5591/sv102550.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/1406/sv102551.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/9664/sv102555.jpg

Here’s a photo of the inside after all the wiring has been completed

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/2033/sv102556.jpg

Final result!

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/5858/sv102560.jpg

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/4086/sv102562.jpg

Here’s the photo album on imageshack.
http://img44.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=sv102443.jpg


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#2

Awesome work Laugh.

I modded a Mayflash and my method to mount the JLF stick was practically the same as yours except I used the stock screws by cutting them shorter with a wire crimper.


Looking to mod my Mayflash Stick
Modding help (Not sure if this is the right place to ask but...)
How to properly mod this bad boy?
#3

Wow, that mod looks so easy. If I had the money I would try it.

Edit: Just curious, will you be selling things like the shorter screws and spacers as well?


#4

Suscribed. Really like the way you did it.


#5

Selling the shorter screws and spacers would be nice, it’d help the people planning to mod rather than just use the pcb


#6

Hell, i think he can even sell a complete kit just to open>mod.

Also, suscribed.


#7

What does the other side of the pcb look like, ie How do you wire the guide/start/back+select button when dropping this in non-revolution sticks.
Thanks for the tutorial laugh


#8

they look like standard metal screws you’d find at any hardware store for about $2, the length and diameter would be helpful to know though


#9

Awesome tutorial.

What I am interested in is mounting a korean stick (I really want to put together a korean stick! and this takes korean buttons easily.)
I figure Laugh of all people would be able to do that :wink:

If not a korean stick, maybe how easy it would be to put in a LS-32/LS-32-01

<edit> Where did you get/make that custom harness? I would almost certainly be getting this stick if I could learn that


#10

Sure, I can definitely offer those button spacers and shorter screws through the web store. Maybe the custom harness as well. In any case, they should be added to the store soon.

This is how the other side of the PCB looks like. Wiring the start/select/guide/turbo is straight up standard.
http://www.etokki.com/image/cache/PW_PCB_B-500x500.jpg

I don’t have the tool to measure the diameter of the screw, but the length is about 16mm when I measured it with a ruler.

I’m actually investigating a way to install Korean sticks into these cases myself also, and I have an idea. I’ll definitely post it if it works after I try it out.

Putting in a LS-32 is fairly straightforward. You just need to shave off all of the mounting fixtures in the case, and mount the LS-32 up against the panel using screws. It’s not clean and screws will be visible from the top, but that’s about the only way to make it work. I believe there are pictures and guides out there for LS-32.

The custom harness was handmade using crimp-on tools and such, but I’m looking into supplying these as well.


#11

hows the shaft height? is it taller than the madcatz te after the mod?


#12

very nice laugh!! great tutorial


#13

http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169569&p=6564829&viewfull=1#post6564829

that was an interesting way of installing a fanta into a mayflash


#14

If you can get a korean stick mounted in there you’ve got yourself a sale :slight_smile:

One quick question, you mention that you used button spacers, but I don’t see them on your site. Do you sell them? I know the sites new, but I figure I’d ask.


#15

Is that JLF mounted well? The stick doesn’t lie flush against the bottom of the case.

Also, I think you should offer a kit consisting the Paewang/Mayflash with the JLF, buttons and screws.


#16

just have a question for the crown buttons you used

why are the solders for both connections to the button not all the same? some of the buttons have the ground wire soldered to the top left or bottom

or does it not matter at all? i’ve never used korean buttons before


#17

with most microswitches it doesn’t matter which side is the positive or the negative as long as they can both make a connection to each other.


#18

Is there a tutorial anywhere that shows how to make a case mountable for fantas?


#19

Is it confirmed you can use that PCB on a Xbox 360?


#20

Yes, it’s confirmed. It’s not confirmed that MS might block it with an update.