PCB mountedd switches Vs. Non pcb mounted switches

Specifically on a JLF. I put my original JLF my HRAP EX in a friend’s stick while I used some different Seimitsu stick to experiment. I have a new JLF and because the HRAP PCB isn’t common ground, I can’t use the pcb mounted switches. I’m using plain non mounted switches I got from akihabarashop MS-O-3R ( http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/sanwa-MSY3.jpg ).

The problem is, the engage distance is MUCH greater than with the pcb mounted switches. Should it be like this? I figured they were the same switches just one has quick disconnect capabilities. This issue makes quarter circles a problem, as it usually goes from down to right/left without hitting a diagonal. I tested it slowly listening for the clicks and the diagonals definitely hit fine with the pcb with the switches in. Is this normal and is there any way to fix this without soldering? (I dont have the tools to do so atm)

I have an HRAP.EX and TE right here and both JLF’s have very negligible differences, so theres definitely something wrong with yours. Any pics of the inside of the stick?

I think it might be the switches. I replaced those ones i had with some switches from a seimitsu stick (with the levers removed) and now it’s about the same as the pcb mounted ones. I would take a picture, but I can’t seem to find my camera now.

check your gate? maybe the little nubs that are inserted into the holes of the microswitch are gone. i tried out open swtich and pcb mounted switches with the jlf.

Did you mount the switches right? Might simply be because the switches aren’t mounted a properly as they should be?

For future reference though, a simpler solution for replacing a TP-MA with something that doesn’t need the wiring harness/common ground would be to use the PCB from the MadCatz TvC stick since it uses OMRON microswitches and more importantly, is wired in such a way that you can de-solder the microswitches and wire them directly.

The switches were in fine. I did a little test. I held a switch directly up to a switch mounted on the pcb, and the non mounted one had to be pressed slightly farther down than the pcb mounted one. I also compared ths pcb mounted switch to a seimitsu switch (with the lever removed) and they are about the same. I think those omrons in particular just from some reason need to be pressed down farther to be actuvated than normal. Maybe an awkward batch of omrons?

Operating Force of the MS-O-3R is different to V-01-3D5-A.

What is the code of MS-O-3R anyways?
I have the original Microswitches from original JLF-TM-8; MS-Y-3.
And the Microswitch on that is V-5210E from azbil (micro) Yamatake.

azbil Yamatake V-5210E were the original used in JLF-TM-8.
Now the JLF-TM-8 in HRAP EX and HRAP EX SA are OMRON V-10-1A5.

AkihabaraShop.jp used to sell the original MS-Y-3.
Now he replace them with MS-O-3R Microswitches in store.
I don’t know the specification of MS-O-3R, but I do know that they are used in Sanwa Illuminated Buttons, specifically Pop’n Music Buttons.

So IIDX advocate, I’d like you to tell me the code on your MS-O-3R.
It isn’t VX-5-1C23 is it?

And if you were to buy a JLF-TM-8 from Lizard Lick (Chad sells them, just not shown on webstore), Microswitches different too.
Chad uses Sanwa MS-O-3, which are OMRON V-10-1A4.
Also in Sanwa Illuminated Buttons.

The “non mounted” ones I tried (omron) are V-10-1A5

I do have a set of VX-5-1C23 switches but those are for my sanwa keys in my arcade IIDX controller

Side note: jdm714, would you happen to know where I can more VX-5-1C23 switches? I’m a couple short of a set of 7 to replace my cherry switches in my IIDX controller.

Ok, V-10-1A4 has Operating Force of 100 gf.
V-10-1A5 has Operating Force of 200 gf.

I can’t say what OF the V-01-3D5-A has.
Because it is not listed in Data Sheet.
But I believe is 200 gf also.

Which if that is true, then something weird.
If V-01-23D5-A is 200 gf, and V-10-1A5 is 200 gf, how come you feel different?

For VX-5-1C23.

all of them have PT MAX 1.2mm so very strange indeed…