PDP MK stick USB jack broken

The USB jack on my PDP MK stick won’t hold a connection. It seems like the black connector inside the jack doesn’t have very good contacts, and the part itself seems flimsy now. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know how I might go about replacing this part?

I tried removing the hinge and taking it apart, but I didn’t have much success, and I didn’t want to damage part of the stick that I might need to keep in good condition in order to repair it. Also, I’ve considered just drilling through the case where the jack is and soldering a cable directly to the board, but I’d rather just have a dependable jack and removable cable.

I can post pictures if necessary.

(Oh, and please note that I’ve tested the stick with several cables, and I’m sure it’s the jack.)

Thanks to anyone who took the time to read this, and many thanks to anyone who should offer some advice!

If you are not afraid of drilling and some rewiring, a NeutrikUSB Feed-Through would work.

Actually…I think I will do that! A Neutrik connector towards the bottom of the base would be baller, and would be much more sturdy than the original PDP design. Thanks, Darksakul.

Now I just need to find a good place to buy the connector and boot that will get them to me quickly. The black versions are sold out at Lizard Lick, unfortunately. Also need to find a way to cleanly cover up the original USB jack.

The same thing happened to me, but I called PDP and they had me send in the stick but shipped back a brand new one. I’d suggest calling them first but if you do end up sending it in, make sure you put in the original parts if you changed them out in any way. Best of luck.

Thanks for mentioning that. It’s cool that PDP replaced your stick. Unfortunately, I think the problem is that they decided to use mini USB B in these sticks, and got connectors that don’t seem to be very high quality, too.

I’m pretty excited to be putting a Neutrik connector into my stick. I already bought one, actually. I replaced the stick and buttons with iL parts that have real Cherry switches a while ago, so replacing it wouldn’t have been a good option for me anyhow. I think the new connector will last much longer.

Thanks again for the idea, Darksakul.