Please clarify MadCatz PRO vs Old/New TE specifications


I apologize if this was answered elsewhere, but I couldn’t find a clear answer in any of the stickies or in searching the forums.

I used to have a Mad Catz SFIV TE FightStick fox Xbox 360 (I play on PC). I ended up selling about 6 months ago because I got busy with life and thought my SFIV gaming days were over. However, SFIV being the awesome game it is, I’ve recently had the insatiable urge to get back into shoryukening things. Unfortunately, my beloved fightstick was gone and it doesn’t appear like Round 1 or 2 TE sticks are easily available anymore.

So I ended up ordering the Mad Catz FightStick PRO for Xbox 360. From what I can tell in review of these forums, the only difference I should notice is that the front of the joystick is a bit sloped, there is a bit less room for the hand at the bottom of the joystick and there is more room to the left of the joystick. Other than that, I can’t tell there is any difference.

I would appreciate if someone could answer or confirm the following:

  1. Are there any other differences between the PRO and TE I’m missing?
  2. I see Amazon has the Round 1 TE stick new from some resellers in the $500-$800 dollar range and the new MadCatz TE2 for Xbox One is $199. The Razer Atrox which also seems essentially like a TE stick to me is the same price range. If the joysticks have similar parts and functionality, why are the TE sticks selling at such a higher premium? I realize these sticks might be more mod-able, but it seems like a high price to pay for mod-ability. Seems like the PRO version is in the SFIV SE price range, which makes me wonder if I’ve made a mistake.

I’m only an average SFIV player and I usually play with the joystick on my lap. I’m also not really planning on modding the stick. If I could get some verification that I’m not missing out on any functionality, that would be much appreciated.

Question regarding getting my first stick!

The main differences between the PROs and TEs…

  1. weight, the TE is slightly heavier
  2. slope on the front of the stick
  3. artwork application, the PRO uses a decal whereas the TE had fused acrylic artwork. you can still however use plexis on the PRO, ie look up arthong/tek-innovations
  4. location of the turbo module is on the upper right side now
  5. you open up the stick from the bottom (instead of the top)

  1. Same Sanwa parts and same Electronics inside. Just the outer case construction and cosmetic differences.
  2. TE sticks at the $500 to $800 range are from unscrupulous 3rd party resellers. Those sticks are nowhere near that value. Now there are several limited edition production runs of certain Mad Catz TE units like the Gold Evo TE, The San Diego Comic Con TE, The Femme Fatale and maybe the Chun Li TE-S which value is much higher the standard TE round 1, Round 2 and TE-S.
    Regular TE Round 1, TE Round 2, TE-S are worth $75 to $150 depending on condition and how original most of the parts are.

The Mad Catz TE2 for the Xbox One is legitimately $200 (not to be confused with OLDER TE sticks) as its a completely new case design and Xbox One PCB (R&D is not cheap), The Razer Atrox is no where like the TE (Trust me), is made by Razer not Mad Catz is also close to $200.


Ok thanks a lot for the responses. Seems like I should be happy with the PRO then.

Just curious. Why do you say the Razer isn’t like the TE? I’m assuming by that you mean Mad Catz is better?

And what is different about the PCB in the TE2 compared to the TE?

I sold my original Round 1 for $150, but then I saw some sellers listing them for >$500 I thought I sold it for too cheap lol. I wonder if anyone even would buy those sticks at those prices.


I own both a Modded TE-S and the Beta version of the Razer Atrox.
Razer did the clam shell design before Mad Catz did and the case design and shape is nothing like the older TE arcade sticks.
Neither is better, the Atorx is has easier access while the TE as more aftermarket case parts

PCB in the TE2 is not common ground and is made for the Xbox one. Although Phreakmod’s Crossbone for the TE2 will assist in making the PCB hackable for Dual mods.
The regular TE for the PS3, Xbox 360 and Wii/Wii U is common ground and easy to hack for dual-mods

$500 is a scam for the original TE, especially with all the issues the original PCB had.


So I got my new Fightstick Pro. When I first installed it, I plugged it into a USB 2.0, it seemed to work ok, all the buttons and movements registered, but they would sometimes not register when triggered (ie. rapid button presses and directional movements both). While testing it in SFIV, the Back and Start buttons stopped registering (I couldn’t press start to quit training). I could have sworn at least Start was working initially because I used it to skip the intro screens initially.

In any case, I plugged it into a USB 3.0 slot and the joystick works great except that Back and Start buttons still don’t register. If I check it out in Windows 7, under Devices and Printers, I can’t get buttons 7 and 8 to trigger (which I’m assuming is Back and Start). I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers and updated the drivers as well. There was even a Windows 7 update that I installed which gave me a newer driver and still can’t get those two buttons to trigger.

Any ideas on how to get these 2 buttons to work?

BTW, Windows 7 is registering the device as MadCatz Fightstick Neo which I’m not sure is correct.

Also, if this makes any sense, I’m pretty sure the buttons were registering before I hit “reset to default” under Game Controller settings where calibrate is grayed out.


Yes, buttons 7 and 8 are Back and Start.

I’ve plugged in Fightstick Pros onto my Win7 64-bit machine on a USB 2.0 slot, and I’ve never had any issues with certain buttons not working.

Sounds like you might have the slider switch on “LOCK” for the Back/Start/Home buttons.


Ok so, how do I fix that? The lock switch is in the unlocked position.


Ok I am pretty sure the stick is defective. I tried it on 3 difference PCs and they all had the same issue.

I did have a few questions though. Does the lock switch really lock the Back and Start buttons? From what I read its just the Turbo and Xbox button?

If it does block the Back and Start, is there any point in opening up the joystick to see if I can fix it? I could have swore the buttons worked when I first plugged the joystick in and I did flick that lock switch at some point after that.