PowerA announces new Fightpads

Basically a Saturn pad, only difference is that all the buttons have the same shape and size. Coming to PS4, Xbox One and Switch.


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lol. These look like Decent Sega Saturn pad knock-offs. I approve. So long as the D-Pad & Buttons are good.

Hope they are also common ground

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the buttons look like a downgrade, you forgot that it has 4 shoulder buttons and not just 2. thats a nice addition. i hope they make them overall a bit bigger.

They look nice enough. Only time will tell if the buttons and D-pad hold up.

Other thoughts:

  • Do the faceplates have to come in those colors? Only the black one looks any good to me.
  • The USB cable looks removable? That’s good; I think every cable needs to be removable.
  • No Touchpad button on the PS4 version? That’s a pretty glaring omission at this point in time.
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I wonder if there a means to simulate that touch pad input. If so, I would not mind it.

it looks goofier than the Saturn pad but if the D-Pad holds up better than the Fighting Commander then I’m copping one

PowerA usually make decent controllers, they’re much better than PDP and MadCatz. Maybe just a notch below Hori.

I’d still be cautious, the last time we had pads getting positive reviews from pro players ( Perfect Legend and Lowtiergod), they turned out to be trash.

As long as the buttons and dpad are responsive I’ll be nabbing one.

You could buy more than one as back-up if you’re worried? Also there are ways to fix/maintain even old gamepads. Take it apart completely, the soap & water scrubdown, etc, etc.

Gamepads, especially old school gamepads and these replicas, don’t have actual switches that are constantly activating that can wear out. Like an Arcade stick and Sanwa parts do. Instead they have that rubber insert thingy pressing directly on the PCB and its sensors inside the pad. Much more durable/reliable in the long run.

Again, speaking of old school game controllers and their replicas. I’d be scared to take apart a modern gamepad with their various triggers, force feedback motors, internal batteries, blutooth, etc.

Reminds me of the AU Saturn Pads.

Hold on, there was a third revision of the saturn pad? Cool!

didnt know it either. seems like a mix of the other two variations…damn, now i want it :confused:

please don’t induce people in error claiming conductive rubber pads would be supposedly more durable and reliable than mechanical switches. It’s just bs and all veterans know it.

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Here’s some info on that Saturn pad

https://segaretro.org/Control_Pad_(Saturn)_(Australia)

It’s on ebay, the seller is only asking for $399

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Completely wrong here, don’t comment on things when you have no clue what you are talking about.

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And yet there are a Zillion classic gamepads out there for systems like the NES & Genesis that still work great after 30+ years. And most that do not, just need to be taken apart and cleaned. As for those classic pads that are truly beyond repair? It’s usually an issue of a borked PCB itself. Not the button sensors.

Tell me again how this design is not reliable in the long run, when there are a bazillion examples to prove otherwise?

As for mechanical switches being better in the long run. Didn’t madcats make some pads with a microswitch D-pad back in the SFIV days? Just saying, I’ve got a feeling those things are in less than stellar shape all these years later.

You really don’t understand much do ya?
Rubber contacts don’t just need to be cleaned they fatigue very quickly from back and forth flexing and fail some even tear or crumble. I cannot count the worn down , chemically degraded or even cracked, torn or floppy beyond hope rubber parts that ended up in the garbage bin, not to mention all those poor guys who threw their pads away as they could not have access to replacement rubber parts and in some cases with some models it simply wasn’t feasible.

How come arcades relied practically always on mechanical switches and not on rubber contacts (speaking of digital joysticks, not analog ones whcih used potentiometers or contactless sensors) ? Arcades are subject to much more abuse on a daily basis than some funny guy at home who plays a maximumof a couple hours on his gear who claims his plastic pad is indestructible because he never knew better.
So arcade parts designers used and still use…drum roll … industrial grade parts like miniature snap microswitches (amongst others) which were used both for joysticks and buttons, while the japanese prefereed at one point to use keyboard type mechanical switches (tokai style).

As for your claims of pads that work flawlessly after 30years (and outlive according to you parts with mechanical switches), they’ve been barely used, are NOS, have had parts replaced or you’re just making it up. IT just doesn’t make any sense.

Slowly , console fightsticks started to ditch the rubber domes for real arcade parts using mechanical switches , sometimes it was just the stick, the buttons remained domes, but hten at one price point everything was based on mech switch to offer the coveted arcade feel apart from the rare contactless sensor type (rare exceptions).

Only a fool or someone blinded by nostlagia would dare claim an american genesis “arcade power stick” witha crappy dome based joystick would rival the japanese version whose buttons alas were still domes like the american one but whose stick was more or less like the neogeo aes one, based on cup and ball pivot with short lever snap switches. Day and night difference, in durability and reliability. Look at all mid and high level entry fighsticks today. almost exclusively based on mech switches except when it’s an optical or magnetic sensor system. Because PROS know the difference :wink:
Now, don’t get me wrong, no one said pads were bad functionally. They just don’t stand the same level of abuse .

^^ Wowsers. You trying to be a dick, or thats just your natural charm?

The proof is in the pudding. There’s only a zillion NES gamepads out there, 35+ years old, with many years of sustained use with various owners over the years. They still work fine. No fancy aftermarket work required, besides some cleaning.

As well as a crap-ton of other classic gamepads from Sega Genesis, SNES, TG-16, etc. Out there littering countless warehouses, classic game shops, e-bay, random person’s basemen, etc. Majority of those pads work will fine as-is too.

Anyway, say no more. I’ve learned enough about you from these mere few posts that you’re one of those childish types that will argue over this stuff obsessively. No thanks, i don’t have that kinda energy. Feel free to keep posting in this thread though about how “right” you are and stuff. Perhaps you’ll meet someone else in here that reciprocates your “feelings”, and you two can hit it off, and argue about various crap for the next 15 pages.

you don’t understand a fucking thing, it’s unreal how stubborn and ignorant you are.

your claims are simply ridiculous and unproven to say the least, plus you have absolutely no clue about how many cycles rubber contacts (of the quality seen in old joypads and low quality “fightsticks” ) can endure until failure, compared to the number of cycles and abuse some miniature snap micro switches, various mechanical keyboard switches etc can endure before failure.
Your experience seems , from what you’ve claimed, extremely limited to say the least.

In fact many name brand console joypads were notorious for failing rubber contacts that lost all resilience (hence not returning to neutral) …and playing for hours at home, yes even that, cannot compare the slightest to the abuse seen in arcades which is on a completely different level.
That’s when industrial grade parts come in the picture.

Even in the arcades there were some rubber based parts, way tougher than console parts but their very own nature was a problem still :
SF I cab had some pneumatic buttons but today you’d be lucky to find one in working state. Same thing for old rubber grommets used in the arcades, rubber at the time was prone to ozone cracking uv damage, drying out, etc and today most “NOS” parts are worth acquiring just for the sake of a collection, it is highly advised to use a repro fresh grommet instead of a cracked one.

As for the quality of the parts used in pads, they are naturally of a quality that wouldn’t last long enough if they were used in arcades. conductive rubber contacts loose their resilience with time, they even tear under repeated back and forth flexing or forceful playing, and sometimes being proprietary parts with specific dimensions etc they cannot be replaced easily whereas others can be but only for those who know where to buy said replacement rubber pads .

Stay respectful and start learning boy. It’s never too late. Heck I know some people who just started getting into old cabs with two way sticks or grommet based wicos and all that shit but know nothing about it, they felt the urge to pick up all the info they could it before it’s too late and get caught in some other matter . So what did they do? No they didn’t get on a forum insulting some guy trying to help, they simply ASKED QUESTIONS, tons of em and wrote things down on a list, which models, which brands, various tips and bits of advice etc. or else they’d be stuck in their project and it would never happen. They don’t have all the same goal, some want just to be period correct, others prefer reliability, some others don’t give a hoot and just stick in clone parts for a quick play on the cheapest possible cabinet, this has to be considered too.

Go see a pro arcade tech if there’s still one working next to where you live and repeat to him the crap you’ve told me and watch closely his reaction.

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