Well I’ve had the tekken 6 wireless stick for about three months now, but I noticed recently that, after I’ve pushed a direction occasionally my character will continue to move in that direction. For example, if I crouch in SSF4, the character continues to crouch long after I return the stick to neutral. The microswitches sound normal when engaged, and I’ll admit the problem occurs fairly rarely. (ie around every 30 mins to an hour) However, it still an annoying issue, I always planned on replacing it, but was wondering if anyone can help me identify the problem. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
You could grease the pivot of the stick or add a spring to help it get back to neutral.
If you don’t have a tri-wing screw driver you can use a mini flathead.
So, the problem may be as simple as the spring being too soft? On a sidenote I’m not 100% what the pivot of the stick looks like, I’m kinda new to arcade sticks in general, long time pad user.
I have me a T6 wireless for the 360. Had for almost a year now and it worked pretty great until about say a month or two ago. LK button does not work 40% of the time. But i can’t say that’s ever happened to me… just that the joystick itself is pretty loose and messes up my execution on moves
But today i bought a TE stick so, no worries
I bought it 3 months ago, and that happened to me once because of low batteries, bison keeped jumping.
Sometimes the LED around guide button just turn itself off, I dont know why. Does this happen to you too ? I am asking you, because I am going to mod it, change push buttons, spring, octogate and microswitches, but I dont want to mod broken stick because of 2 years warranty…
Check input of your stick in training mode try to charge any direction, then let it go, if you will see 2 inputs (i.e charging back- forward input), change the spring
I got one of these sticks cause the bundle was so cheap at EB. My guide button turns off too, but I assumed it was to save batteries. I notice with mine though if it turns itself off from not using it, I have to take the batteries out again to get it back on.
I think the LED near the guide button turning off is a power save feature. In response to SonOfSparda, do you mean if I’m holding backwards, and I let it go to neutral and see additional inputs, then the spring definitely needs to be changed?
I’ve had the LED lights stay on after i turned the thing off draining the batteries overnight.
yes, just hold it down or whatever direction you want and let go, for best results do it with only 1-2 fingers, if opposite direction appears in input log, your spring is waaaaay too soft, buy new better ( spring from sanwa JLF or SEimitsu LS-32, which is taller (its only about personal preference)
As I said earlier, I have this stick too, and I put piece of paper ( around 1mm high) between actuator and E-clip and it really helps! I can do SRK -> FADC ultra without bigger troubles, which with old setting I could not do, because joystick get in neutral position slower than I needed, but this is just temporary solution, I am going to buy new spring from sanwa JLF joystick and put them both inside (original HORI spring+ spring from sanwa.
@dj atman Try add tape on battery cover, or paper (from the inside), I cant say that it really helps, but as I did it, LEDs always turn off when I turn off controller.
@Mideon, yep I bought it for the same reason, I paid 40€ for it, and I am not big fan of Tekken series, T3 is far the best, I dont like no lobbies in T6 Online mode…
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I’ll try adding a spring when I get ahold of one, and hope it stays in one piece till then.
I’ve had a problem with mine recently too, but I’ve modded mine recently so I can’t say for sure I didn’t do something. I’ve noticed up not working several times since I got it back together. It’s very seldom and I can’t replicate it. Just every once in a while I’ll be pressing up when I’m recovering and then the character will just stand there or walk if diagonal. I’m not positive it’s not a matter of adjusting to the modded JLF because it happens so rarely. The only other thing I know to be wary of is that I wired together the four grounds coming off the pcb to the stick so I could use the jlf harness. It shouldn’t matter, because the solder-points all go to the same ground-plane, but what do I know, I’m nooby-fresh!