Project Leo: Sixaxis + Wireless 360 dual mod


New Version 2 Leo board!
This PCB was made and produced by me and designed by to help people mod their arcade sticks with the Playstation 3 sixaxis pcb so people can play wireless as easy as possible.
Leo V2 makes your sixaxis pcb common ground so you can have a simpler type of setup inside your stick and be able to add one or even two other pcb´s for a complete common ground setup of three pcb´s in total.
Hooking wires up to the Leo V2 is super easy, just use the terminal blocks on the Leo V2 and screw in the wires and you´re all set.
For help on how to connect the Leo V2 please look at the tutorial pictures below.

Please watch the small video:

When the Sixaxis came out, people said that it wouldn’t be feasible to use them in a dual mod. There were two big deterrents that prevented people from using the Sixaxis in mods. The board not being common ground was the biggest problem. Not having an easy way to wire up the Sixaxis board for a stand alone wireless ps3 stick was the other problem. Advances were made to make it easier to wire up a Sixaxis board, but it didn’t make it common ground so it was still not usable in a dual mod.

Version 1 of Project Leo was designed to tackle those two big issues dealing with the Sixaxis board. The Leo board easily connects to the Sixaxis board through the ribbon connector. It also makes the Sixaxis common ground. This makes it easier to wire up a wireless PS3 stick and makes the Sixaxis possible for use in a dual mod.

Version 2 of Project Leo was designed to make improvements by simplifying the setup. Added screw terminals to easily wire up the joystick and buttons. Made it easier to mount by stacking it over the sixaxis. Added an extra set of contacts to hook up a 3rd pcb to go beyond dual wireless. Simplified hooking up the 360’s triggers.

What started out as a dream, Project Leo is now a reality. The custom boards for version 1 have been sold out and a new batch of version 2 board have been made and are up for sale.

Peoples sticks using the Leo board

$35 per assembled Leo board
[Out of Stock] $25 per PS3 wireless Sixaxis controller board with Sixaxis lithium battery
Priority shipping with tracking is $6.

$3 per 4pdt switch.
[Out of Stock] $3 per 18650 series Lithium Ion cell @ 3000mAh.

The battery holder will not be soldered to the board unless specified to do so.

To order, send a Paypal payment to Make sure to include in the notes what you are ordering. Also make sure the correct address that you wish to have the boards shipped to is selected.


Guides made by

-Measurements and connections-

-Assembling the Leo V2 with a Playstation 3 Sixaxis PCB-

Single Setup
Hooking up to a SixAxis PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(How to use it with a Flash 1)

Double Setup
Hooking up to a common ground Xbox 360 PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(Connections for controller cord)
(Connections for controller cord extra)

Hooking up to a common ground MadCatz Xbox 360 TE PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(Connections for controller cord)
(Connections for controller cord extra)

Hooking up to a common ground Wireless Xbox 360 PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(Connections for controller cord)
(Connections for controller cord extra)

Tripple Setup
Hooking up to a common ground Xbox 360 PCB and a common ground DC PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(Connections for controller cord)

Hooking up to a common ground Xbox 360 PCB and common ground Cthulhu PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(Connections for controller cord)

Hooking up to a common ground Xbox 360 PCB and a common ground PiiWee PCB.
(Connections for joystick and buttons)
(Connections for controller cord)


The old guide can be downloaded from here:

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If this actually works, TONS OF PROPS TO YOU!!!

It’d be amazing!

That said… I’m probably sticking with wired sticks. There’s a reason madcatz chose to go with wired. I just think its more reliable overall, and you don’t have to worry about batteries.


Holy fuck… That’s some… dedication, to say the least.


Well you can still dual mod a sixaxis and wired 360 controller together.


o.o wow that is some effort that you put into solving the circuit
my only concern is the size issue. Most of the arcade stick with Sixaxis and a sixaxis adapter is already pretty filled (assuming you got the average size)… if you want to add the additional diodes and chips and 360 pcb… I am not too sure if there is that much space left in there to do so

Other wise, great job:tup:

to the post above. The whole point of owning a sixaxis arcade stick is to get the wireless benefit, otherwise, its simply easier to go with a cthulhu board


Once i find my mem card I’ll take some pics of the mod and stick because the whole thing doesn’t take up as much space as you think. The custom stick I made for it is pretty small (a bit smaller than 8x11x3) yet has room for the 360 controller(and battery pack) and sixaxis board plus the circuit.


alright im down with doing this if I could understand the diagram a little better


Which parts are you having trouble understanding?


pretty much everything, when it comes to resistors & transistors im a noob, I can wire and solder everything together once i figure it out, i dont really understand the symbols on the diagram.


I hope this picture helps you out.

The color code for the 1k ohm resistor is brown-black-red and for the 22k ohm resistor is red-red-orange. You can get all the parts for this mod from radio shack. Total cost for the diodes, pnp transistors, and the resistors should be $10.


^^ thanks that makes it tons easier, so do you recommend using one of those project pcb board from radio shack to get everything organized.


Yes, that’s what I did.


I am really looking forward for this to work. Trying to make one diagram my self also cause i have been thinking on doing this also. BUT I WILL!!!


It works, I got it done in time for entering a tourny last night. And good thing too because all the systems SF4 was playing on were PS3 (my only other stick was a wireless 360). I was nervous at first because I only tested the ps3 board on my laptop so I didn’t know if it would act the same on a real ps3, but everything went smoothly.

I still need to test the circuit out for including L1 and L2 because the stick I made uses a six button layout (x,square,circle,triangle,R1, and R2). Also, triangle doesn’t need the 22k ohm resistor, just the 1k ohm resistor.

I took pictures, but I don’t have a way to transfer them to my laptop right now. I’ll have to wait till tomorrow to post them.


Here are the pictures of the mod in my new custom stick.

This is the transistor+resistor circuit

You can see the bottom side of the circuit a little bit

Closer look at the ribbon connector on the sixaxis board

I use 25 pin D-Sub connectors so I can connect different controller boards in and out of my sticks. This way none of my sticks are bound to being only used for a particular system. This is were I also have the diodes at. They are important in this mod because both controller boards are not powered at the same time. It prevents the other board’s circuitry from interfering with each other.**


2 things
Battery … are you using the sixaxis battery for both??
PS3 sisxaxis … i don’t see the wireless sensor plug to the board.


I dont have a sixaxis battery hooked up to it yet for two reasons. One, because I didnt want to risk having syncing problems at the tourny I was at. So I just stuck with having it connect through usb. Second, is simply because I dont have any. The lot of sixaxis boards i got from ebay only had the boards.

And what do you mean by the wireless sensor?


Alright I got all the parts and I’m gonna start assembly of the circuit. I got a couple of questions though.

-Which PCB piggybacks on to which PCB, or are signal lines coming from each PCB to the buttons?

-Where do we get the ground for the sixaxis?


Heres a more graphical look at how a button should be wired. This picture I drew shows how the Up button is done.

I used the ground that the sync button uses.

Assistance needed in odd dual mod

Thanks for the diagram helps out a bunch, now 1 last question before I start soldering, based on the drawing, do the resistors have a direction or it doesn’t matter? Here is a pic of the current placement on the PCB i’m working with.