Project Magenta 2017


#224

I was careless and tried the J7 a few days ago but all is intact thankfully. the magenta works on the computer with the mini and the arcade stick works in general.


#225

Ya, I really can’t see how the magenta or qanba would be harmed by connecting to the J7 but it simply will not work supplying power… If you zoom in on the picture you posted you can see in tiny text both pins say LED. The parts connected to each pin are mostly there for protection and act as a buffer driven by either Q2 or Q5. All this looks well insulated from the controller logic so I think you’re safe and should not have damaged either device.


#226

I just wanted to give thanks to Zonbipanda and Accel for helping me out and also Butteroj just in general for all he is doing for this board. I’m all set up now and blown away. I’m excited to see what people come up with for their custom presets.


#227

@butteroj and @zonbipanda thank you! things are moving here is a diagram of where to connect to the UFB or audio board. https://www.facebook.com/paradisearcadeshopcom/posts/1910090145718530


#228

Got my Magenta in last Friday. It took some tweaking on the hardware side but my initial impressions are positive and so far it’s everything I can ask for in a stick.

I dropped it into my Panzer UFB stick and hooked it up to power and an outside button for mode switch with no trouble. I didn’t mess with the hardware or software other than dropping in a set of JLF switches. I took it to my Saturday CvS2/GG+R local and noticed right away that the installed spring was heavier than the standard JLF spring, which I didn’t care for at all. I also noticed I was missing some basic supers. Something was going on.

Today I started to figure out what was up, starting with the hardware. I swapped the spring in the Magenta with the standard JLF spring from the JLF stick I’d been using before, adding some Loctite Blue to secure the screw as recommended. (Why it doesn’t come with a standard 0.9 lb. spring pre-installed is beyond me.)

Then I noticed that the gate/board housing wasn’t clipping in snugly on top of the JLF switches. Without the switches, it was on there tightly. But with them the board would slip off with very little effort. This might have explained why I was missing inputs.

I solved this problem by taking an Xacto knife and shaving away some plastic that was sticking up near the holes where the clips lock into. You can see the raised plastic protrusions quite clearly in the top and right sides of the photo below, but they were on all four clip holes. Reducing that down to be level with the surrounding plastic allowed the clips to lock in, solving that problem.

I spent a bit of time playing CvS2 and it felt great right away. It feels just like a JLF (it should, with the spring weight and the switches) but with the added benefit of that Magenta magic. I felt like I was hitting supers a lot more consistently all of a sudden. I’ll need more time in actual matches to see if that keeps up, but so far so good.

I most appreciate how I can monitor the stick in real-time while playing. This is a dream feature for me. If I miss a super I can practice the motion and see, on-the-spot, if I’m doing something wrong. Execution has always been a weakness of mine. It’s great to be able to visually see if I’m doing something right before I try to learn the muscle memory for it.

With the software I’ve programmed in some basic tweaks for the standard JLF setup, a true 4-way setup (no diagonals) for puzzle games, and a true 8-way for shumps. I’ll probably use the 4th profile for 3D fighters like SC6 coming up.

Thanks Paradise for finally getting this thing finished. It’s amazing (so far)!


#229

So, preorders should have arrived by now… Where’s the reviews/impressions?


#230

I was a bit surprised that there wasn’t a writeup or anything for the final version on the front page. I haven’t been able to use mine anywhere as much as I’d like to due to personal issues but man, this thing is the best lever I’ve ever used BY FAR. I’d really like to see what kind of profiles everyone’s using because I’m struggling to settle. :joy:


#231

After using it since I got it last week I have to say I’m really enjoying it. Still a scrub though :smiley:


#232

My favorite for SFV


#233

Thanks for this, I’ll be sure to try it when I get back from work. :smiley:


#234

I would not recommend modifying the magenta base to anyone reading this.

Paradise may have their own thoughts on this but once you remove plastic you can’t go back. I have a couple of sanwa switch plates here and after measuring both I can honestly say the sanwa switch plates vary greatly in quality. Both have raised text and circles around the screw holes on the side of the sanwa switches. The excess plastic on the side of the sanwa switch can easily be sanded down or scraped with an xacto knife to get a better fit with magenta. I have only experimented with the one so far but a light sanding to reduce the overall height of the text on the sanwa switches did the trick. My other sanwa switch plate fit right in for a tight lock with magenta no sanding required.


#235

And for closure on finding 5 volt power on the the Qanba Dragon fightstick, @LogDugg forwarded me this image with the pads labeled. I still do not have a Dragon so I highly recommend testing with a volt meter before you start soldering.


#236

Try this for Tekken 7 with Heihachi Mishima (picture from the Magenta Beta)

tekken7-heihachi-mishima-map


#237

I just got my magenta and don’t understand how to change out the springs on it. Can anyone please have steps or pics on how to do it? Thank you if you can


#238

If anyone is doing twitch streaming with a magenta lever shoot me a pm. I’ve been working on a magenta overlay plugin but need to better understand the tools people are using.


#239

1:) Remove magenta PCB and black holder from JLF body exposing the shaft and actuator assembly

2:) Heat up screw with hairdryer to loosen loctite

3:) Using a 1/16 Allen key carefully unscrew retaining screw from shaft, taking extra caution to make sure the actuator doesn’t shoot you in the eye.

4:) Change spring

5:) Apply a dab of blue loctite on screw hole in shaft

6:) Reassemble actuator and screw in screw

7:) Wait 10 minutes for loctite to set

8:) Your done


#240

I just did the layout you suggested but I’m unable to hit up-left half of the time. I’m able to hit it if I wiggle the stick in that radius. Is this something you’ve experienced yourself?

image

@ZonbiPanda I’m not really a Heihachi guy but I’ll definitely give it a shot.


#241

No sir. Just adjust that direction a degree or 2 till it hits every time.


#242

@Accel I have one of the Magenta beta sticks with the white 3d printed base and the setup I posted requires you to ride the gate to hit that diagonal. That’s the point! The final version of Magenta with the black base has a more polished square gate than my white 3d printed base which is starting to show some wear. I really should upgrade my TE2 with the latest version.

As @butteroj said, adjust your diagonal a sliders a bit until you hit the activation zone. The whole point of having a near infinitely adjustable stick is that you can customize it for you play and not be stuck with a one size fits all stick. :slight_smile:


#243

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback as always. Sorry for the questions that have seemingly easy answers!