PS3 encoder Ebay?


Hello, I am looking to dual mod my 360 TE stick with PS3 capability. I have done lots of research, and it seems majority dual mod their stick with Cthulu, chimp, ps360+. While searching for alternative option I come across this

Unless I miss something, but it looks easier to do than other board. The picture I have in mind is that, in order to dual mod, all we need to do are running, then join original and new wires to the buttons and the joystick’s 5 pin connector, and then drill a hole for the usb cable to go from the board to the system. I have decent soldering skill, but limited knowledge in electronic, so pardon me if I make wrong assumption. So, thoughts / opinions, any 1 : ) ?. If some 1 already tried this, feedback (in terms of latency and consistency) are greatly appreciated, thank you.


You will need to supply both pcb’s with power, meaning you will have to connect the 5v locations on both boards. If you only want to use one usb cable, you can use a dual pole/dual throw switch.

Also, it has been my experience with these ps2/PS3/usb boards that you will have to swap around some of the wires in the joystick harness to get the directional inputs correct. Nothing complicated, but you’ll definitely want to know that before you start splicing or soldering.

There’s a thread about that particular pcb here, but the bulk of it seems to be people discussing earlier versions. As far as I can tell, the only differences are added features (such as PS2 support and a home button). ZD Arcade Control Encoder And ZD ReMatch (PS3/PS2/PC) (The most cost efficient PCBs to date!)


Useful dual mod links:


hey president, thanks for answering, but I dont quite understand the 5v part, I thought the board will get power from the usb port, correct? My plan is using two separate cable, one from the original te to 360, other one will be from the ZD board to PS3. I don’t see the need for connecting the 5v on the te pcb to this one.

Also, on the ZD wiring diagram I don’t see anywhere labeled 5v, as it is labeled in the te pcb. If I absolutely need to connect the 5v between 2 board, where is the 5v on the ZD pcb ?


All PCBs need to be powered at the same time or you will get weird issues with inputs, etc.


Normally, the red wire (which is pink in the ZD’s wire) of a USB cable is VCC (where the power travels). Most likely, what’s labeled as “VDD” in the diagram is where you would connect for power (either one should work). You can be sure (which I strongly advise, as this is a cheap Chinese pcb- you can never be 100% sure things will always be where they should) by checking with a multimeter- probe the correct pin in the USB plug, then probe the corresponding solder point on the back of the ZD encoder. Once you confirm, solder a wire from the TE’s VCC to the ZD’s VCC (or “VDD”, as they label it, assuming I’m correct) and both PCB’s will receive power.

As for performance issues, I have two installed in my MAME/PS2 arcade and haven’t had any issues. Haven’t thrown one in a dual mod, but I haven’t read about anything that would prevent it from working fine in one. If I ever decide to dual mod my 360 brawl stick, I will buy another one. Good price, small board, easy to hook up, and I like that it comes with the needed wiring. On the note of wiring, how are you planning on connecting the ZD to the buttons and stick? You can solder or splice.


Thanks so much Camacho, I think I got enough info in preparation to dual mod my stick. About wiring, I was thinking of splicing / join wires of both board then run them to appropriate buttons and stick.

However, can I just bother you with one last question, sorry I’m a bit paranoid xD ? I still don’t understand the need of joining the 5v of both board. As previously stated, I will be running 2 separate usb cable, one from each board. The TE board will get power from 360 usb, and ZD will get its power from PS3 usb. So, is it about input issue like what iNENDOi mention ?


Your boards are still tied by the signal lines going to the buttons and joystick.

This half-volts the nonactive board and it will act-up sending false and erroneous inputs, making game play hard if not impossible.
The solution to this is to make the PCB go into idle, by powering up both board but not giving that board the data connection (from the USB cable) the board will sit idle until the console starts to “talk” to it and you wills stop having the non-used board chattering wrong inputs.


^ A better explanation than I could have given.


You may need extra wire for that, the wiring that comes with the ZD isn’t very long. the splicing method I used was to join the signal wires for each button at the existing terminal strip, which required new .110 disconnects. If you take that route, buy more than you need - you’ll probably end up having to redo some of them. Also, you’re going to have to solder the connection for the home button, due to the way it’s connected (with the Cthulu, you can make start + back function as the home button)

Just thought of something else that will save you work and clutter. The ZD’s included wires have a signal and a ground wire for each individual button. Since you’re tying into a TE, which uses a terminal strip for signal and ground, you could join 1 ground wire from the ZD to a single ground QD in the TE and cut the rest of the ZD’s button ground wires off. Use a multimeter to be sure which wires are ground before cutting them (connect the wires to the ZD, set your multimeter to ohms, then probe two wires of the same color. If you get continuity, they’re ground. Should be the black wires, but again, you want to be sure).

As for connecting the stick itself, given the short length of the harness included with the ZD, I suggest separating the wires from your existing JLF harness and splicing in with small wire nuts. Like I told you earlier, you’re probably going to have to do some directional swapping for the ZD’s harness (fortunately the ground wire is correct), so test it and get them straight before closing your case back up. Wire nut splices are easy to swap around, or you could remove the connector from the ZD and swap pins around.


Thanks so much everyone. Everything is cleared up now, i think im ready for dual mod : ) you guys are extremely helpful, im grateful for that and best wishes to u all